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2.35m Keel

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JonB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JonB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 2.35m Keel
    Posted: 07 January 2018 at 09:18
During our entire ownership of Norse King and certainly whilst he's been moored here in Cowes, we've had him lifted each December and stored on the hard enabling me to climb all over him for three months.

Now I understand the makeup of the keel consists of the 3.5t lead section bolted to the iron framework, which has the '+' cross in the middle, then overlaid in GRP, to give it its shape, which in turn is bolted under the saloon table onto the frame. Every year the joint between the two is discoloured.

Here's the question. Does anyone know whether the void within the iron frame fills with water ?



The overrun is me being a bit slapdash trying to add more Coppercoat before the resin went off and wasted in my paint tray.  It's since been rubbed back smooth.
Jon


Edited by JonB - 15 January 2018 at 17:38
Jon B
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http://www.norse-king.blogspot.co.uk
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Niels View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Niels Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 January 2018 at 12:40
I would say no it shouldn’t in 7 years of yearly lift out and maintenance I’ve never had any signs at the joints that water have been sipping in and out or rust marks from the joints, perhaps a grounding before your time has left an opening somewhere for the water to get in
Niels
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JonB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JonB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2018 at 22:58
Unlikely this photo is of the 470 next to ours and shows exactly the same thing only more defined.







Edited by JonB - 15 January 2018 at 17:34
Jon B
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sailkoop View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sailkoop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 January 2018 at 08:28
Hi Jon,
this is typical for our keels! The lower part of the keel is out of Plumbum! The Interface is connected via screws into the upper Part of the keel. If the boat stay on Dryland the weight of the Boat will illuminate every space in between. In the Water the lower Part hangs on the screws and it opens the Space. Only Chance to secure that is to open the upper Part (if you knock the Part, you'll hear a different sound and shows you that empty space!) and check the Nuts!
best regards

Bjoern

http://www.sy-serafina.de
Hanse 470e #165

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JonB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JonB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 January 2018 at 13:07
Hi Bjoern,

I suspected that this might be the case, I didn't think it was an issue and new how the two components are related just wasn't sure how they are joined.  Our keel the fibreglassing is pretty good with an even shape, the chaps next door has slightly scalloped shapes in the 'hollows'.

Nuts under the table are all good.

Thanks for comments, always appreciated.
Jon B
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http://www.norse-king.blogspot.co.uk
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sailkoop View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sailkoop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 January 2018 at 09:08
Hi Jon,
you're always welcome...Smile
Attached you'll find a drawing about the keel construction. It helps to understand.uploads/2721/Hanse-470-keel-GK1CK3_construction_deep_keel.pdf


Edited by sailkoop - 11 January 2018 at 09:10
best regards

Bjoern

http://www.sy-serafina.de
Hanse 470e #165

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La Humla suse View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote La Humla suse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2018 at 22:11
We got a rusty crack in this area after hitting an underwater rock in 12 m/s We were about to tack, doing around 6 knot and there was some waves causing us to jump on and off the rock. We were reliewed not to find interior damage!! We later discovered a rusty crack between the lead bulb and the keel fin. The back part of the bulb was 5-8 mm off the centre to the fin.
The yard that fixed the keel told me that the keelbulb in their opinion was badly put together from Hanse because they had used flexible sikaflex filling down through the holes where the keel bolts are fitted. There is little room between the bolts and the drilled holes in the lead, but enough to allow some flexibilty if the bulb is knocked like this. It was fixed by remowing bolts and sikaflex and fittid with same bolts but with filler of epoxy . Two years after the keel is perfect and I am very happy to have a strong boat with a interiour steel frame that can take a beating! I should also add that the yard did not believe It was a shourt term safety consern if I had left it unattendet for a few
years.
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davidef View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davidef Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 January 2018 at 17:49
my keel is perfect ! non bubble or rust also in the junction
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JonB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JonB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 January 2018 at 18:06
How often do you lift and store yours out of the water David?

The other side, which also has been coppercoated better shows little sign of movement.  I totally understand Bjeorn's comments and the drawing backs it up, where there's a change of material there's a joint, now yours may have been nicely tightened whereas mine and the guys next to us and a few others may have slightly more movement.

However, my original question was to confirm that water did not, in fact, enter the cast iron hollow frame section, which has been confirmed.
Jon B
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http://www.norse-king.blogspot.co.uk
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davidef View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davidef Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 January 2018 at 13:34
if you want i have a picture of the keel nude, without filler 
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