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Battery Monitors

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High Time View Drop Down
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Joined: 04 September 2012
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote High Time Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 June 2018 at 12:31
I have a couple of observations/suggestions from the posts above.

Samuel - firstly, as already suggested, your 'charge' reading when everything is turned off could well be the calibration for the zero point on the battery monitor. This should be adjustable. I suggest you first check what the actual current is with a multimeter. Disconnect the battery cable (doesn't matter which polarity), put the multimeter between the disconnected cable and the battery terminal and turn the multimeter onto the highest current setting (probably 10A). Assuming there is only a very small (or zero) reading, gradually reduce the multimeter setting to it's lowest current value (100 micro A maybe) to see what is the actual current flowing. It should be zero. If it is, then recalibrate your battery monitor to read zero (you'll need to read the manual to do this). If the multimeter is not reading zero (after leaving the batteries to stabilise for an hour or so) then you need to investigate why. For instance if the batteries are equalising (and the 1-2-Both switch is off) you need to understand what is the connection between the batteries (through the charger maybe?). 
Regarding the 6mm connection, presumably it is quite short so the volts drop (and hence the watts (heat) dissipated) will be small, even at high loads.

Bob and Coral - is your shunt really a coil? For DC the shunt is usually an accurately known low resistance. The battery monitor then measures the small (mV) drop across the shunt and displays it as current (Ohms Law I=V/R). A coil around a wire is usually used for measuring AC current. 


Edited by High Time - 28 June 2018 at 12:34
Roger

High Time (415 #038)
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Joey D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joey D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 June 2018 at 17:27
Hi Frank,

Thanks much for the information.  I will work on it this weekend and see if I can get it to work.
If not, I will reach back out to you for the wiring scheme.  Regardless I'm going to enjoy sailing this weekend and rely on my Amp meter to insure I have service battery power.Smile
Joey

How do I obtain your PM address? 
jdunne33@gmail.com
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D0bbies View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote D0bbies Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 July 2018 at 09:18
I fitted a Victron battery monitor that I've been pleased with so far, but like Samuel mine also shows a positive (+1.20 amp) reading when everything is switched off.

In the meantime I've taken note of what Roger (High Time) has posted and will firstly try calibration and then shunt polarity. Albeit my shunt appears to be correctly positioned in accordance to the circuit diagram below:


Bob
2005 312, Tiller, Engine 2GM20, SD20 Saildrive. Facnor SD 130 Furler.
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