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BOTH Water Tanks Leaking - Hanse 540

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AdventureModeOn View Drop Down
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    Posted: 07 March 2018 at 18:56
Cry Has anyone had any experience in repairing or replacing leaking water tanks in a Hanse 540e?

Both my port and starboard water tanks are leaking completely dry. They are sealed into the hull with epoxy resin and they are firmly caged under the aluminium flooring structure. I don't believe there is any way I can remove them without dismantling all my furniture and unbolting the whole aluminium floor structure.

The tanks are stainless steel and manufactured by Mastpol. I believe they are the original tanks installed by Hanse. The model number is WT540-STB-TSF0104. I have emailed them but had no response.

I cannot see any holes or cracks and I cannot get under the tanks to identify a specific location of the leak or leaks. I believe they may be leaking along many of the angles or joins in the steel.

I have access to the tanks from the top but I can only see into a small section of each tank because there are strengthening partitions inside them.

I know they leak slowly but they leak constantly and right to the bottom until they are completely dry.

Can I remove the tanks without having to uproot everything in the boat?
Can I cut the tanks open from the top and use some sort of sealant in the tanks like Copon Hycote?
Or can I cut them open and fill them with some sort of form filling water tank?
Should I get rid of them completely? Or replace them with the same model from Mastpol?

Any ideas as to what I can do?
Here's hoping.
Thanks
Sam
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 March 2018 at 21:54
If you do have to have them renewed could you have someone cut the tops off & line them internally in GRP. they could form a lip on the top if the lid was cut so a lip was left in place then a new lid in GRP could be bolted on the top. The existing tanks would provide the strength
Just an idea, if you can find someone experienced in the West system of epoxy resin. The book published by the Gudgeon Brothers about the West system describes how to make grp tanks & as you have a tank as a former already it may be an economic possibility


Edited by samuel - 07 March 2018 at 21:56
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AdventureModeOn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2018 at 16:38
Thank you Samuel
Cutting them open is an option. I'm not sure I can use GRP in water tanks though. I'll take a look at the links you suggested.
Sam
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2018 at 17:36
I have the book in front of me now & the section on water tanks starts by saying how much better it is than plastic  tanks because it does not taint the water in the same way that plastic does. There is a description of how to do it in wood lined internally with the West system but I would have thought that you could adapt your tanks to form the support for the GRP.
The main content is how to build boats - particularly some race boats.
The title of my version is " The Gougeon Brothers on boat Construction. Wood & West System Materials
Published 1979
It is a really good read & i bought it because I wanted to build a wood boat but ended up buying a wreck , stripping it to just a hull & refurbishing it & completely sheathing it in the West system. Had great fun doing it & learned an awful lot. It was my dream to do a one off race boat in the 40 ft range in wood if I could have afforded it


Edited by samuel - 08 March 2018 at 18:02
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AdventureModeOn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 March 2018 at 21:06
Thanks Samuel
I got in touch directly with Gougeon Brothers but they didn't think it was as straightforward as you suggest. The standards may have changed since the book was published in 1979. I'm sure they won't mind that I post their reply here. It is from their Director of Product Safety and Regulatory Compliance and it may be interest to anyone else reading this post:

Here in the U.S., and I’m assuming somewhat similar in the U.K., there are regulations that require materials that are intended to come into direct contact with potable water (and food also) be tested and certified by an approved, independent 3rd party testing laboratory, such as NSF International. This type of certification verifies that when the materials are used in the field according to manufacturer’s use, installation and application instructions, etc., they will not leach out chemicals at a rate or level that could cause harm to people or the environment.

My suggestion would be to first find if the materials you intend to use have been approved for such a use. The standard that I am most familiar with in terms of drinking water safety and certification is Standard 61. We do not have epoxy systems that have been tested and certified under that standard simply because we have never targeted or marketed for that end use. You can research coating materials, like epoxies, that have tested and certified under Standard 61 at www.nsf.org.

So, it still could be an option but only with the right materials and the right testing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AdventureModeOn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 March 2018 at 21:10
Still really interested to hear from anyone out there who knows anything about getting the tanks out to inspect them or any method for removing the aluminium frame structure on the floor without having to take all the furniture apart.
Pleeeeeaaaaaaase help. Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 March 2018 at 21:37
Originally posted by AdventureModeOn AdventureModeOn wrote:

Thanks Samuel
I got in touch directly with Gougeon Brothers but they didn't think it was as straightforward as you suggest. The standards may have changed since the book was published in 1979. I'm sure they won't mind that I post their reply here. It is from their Director of Product Safety and Regulatory Compliance and it may be interest to anyone else reading this post:

I can only apologise for misleading you. i was reading straight from the book & as you say regs may have changed
Sam Longley
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AdventureModeOn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 March 2018 at 12:20
Hi Sam
No need to apologise. All information is good information. You pointed me in the direction of someone who is very qualified to tell me all about GRP so thank you.
All the best
Sam
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AdventureModeOn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 March 2018 at 18:44
Does anyone out there have a direct contact with anyone at the Hanse factory?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iemand Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 March 2018 at 19:34
Once I read about a tank product which is like a balloon. You blow it up in a certain space and then you harden it with UV light.

https://www.google.de/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.bukh-bremen.de/files/346/upload/News/Yacht_08-09_EasyTank.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiy34S6w-fZAhUnKpoKHT5lCucQFjAEegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw25YFt0jnN6zqEJzaI6OHt2
Hanse 312 MJ 2004 - Hanse 370e MJ 2007
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