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Code Sail

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Cumulus View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10 October 2017 at 18:14
I have had one season with my new 385 and the time has come to consider extention of my sail wardrobe.
My FCL sails seems OK, also the 095% jib if TWS is abow 4 ms.
A 105 % jib is an obvious extention, but the gain is not more than 6 sqm.
A sailmaker reccomand a code 0/code x with fibre laminat - 60 sqm. On selden CX 25 role. That will handle upwind up to 30 degr in light wind and downwind -> 140 degr in stronger wind. Than consider to drop or delay bying a expensive 105% when the code also handle light upwind sailing.
My experiance from my last boat is that code sail on role is a good cruising Option.
Usage will be some shorthanded clubregattas and cruising.
Any experiance with code sail on the 385 used in club regattas as well cruising ?
What is the right, confortable Size ? Fabric ( up to 5-6 mps) ? Sail loft ?    


Edited by Cumulus - 10 October 2017 at 18:16
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Mr Bluesky View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mr Bluesky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 October 2017 at 16:42
Have you considered a Furlstrom from Elvstrom Sails, it's basically an Asymmetric chute, but will also set close to the wind in light conditions. Or perhaps the new blue water runner also from Elvstrom
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Cumulus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cumulus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 October 2017 at 16:14
Thanks, the New "Blue water Runner" looks like a perfekt match for a shorthand jib boat as 385, so i have saken for an offer, IT depence On og if its possible to measure inn to nor rating/ orc and use such a strange sail both in local regattas And cruising.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Havloeye Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 December 2017 at 19:54
Cumulus

Some thoughts and experiences.
I have a C0, on a furler. A  powerful sail and is a highly recomended sail.
"Full" power from AWA 34, and is used in regattas (Bod°). Your rating will of course go up with this sail and to compensate mutch "handeling" -training is recommended. See my rating- data on NOR-lys.

Here are some +/- as I see it:

+
* Power in light coonditions (keeps your "heavy boat" go forward also in hoplessly light winds)
* Make you point high with the right placing of the sheet block. (modified)
* Useful in upwind range 2- 16kn. When close hauled no problem up to 12kn TWS. (from there its too powerful, and broatching will occure even with a reefed main)
* Easily handeled singlehanded.
* With few or no tacks between marks- you will be hard to catch!

-
* Rating goes from 0,893 to 0,940 (My boat)
* Handeling time is high with untrained crew. (on short circuts with a lot of tacks you will loose time and not be able to sail to rating)
* sail must be rolled inn for tacking
* Some modifications needed to the boat to be able to sail to rating with the sail.

Remember:

- You will need to reinforce your bowspit/anchor rest (or you will tear it right off the boat under full power)
- You will need to install 2:1 halyard to have enough luff tension for the best upwind performance.
- there is so mutch power that your 8mm tack- point at the bow will not hold. 10mm is ok.

My C0 is a Elvstr÷m sail probably of same fabrick as recommended for you.



Edited by Havloeye - 03 December 2017 at 20:01

Havl°ye - NOR 15014
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ist Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 March 2018 at 15:36
We have fitted a code zero on our 2014 385.  Specs about as you indicate.
Don't have the cloth specs at hand, but somewhere between the thickness of the jib and our genakker.

We needed two enhancements to the rig.

First, you need a reinforcement to the tack fitting/anchor roller. We fitted a 10mm eyebolt, below the anchor spirit, and a stay to connect with the eye on the anchor roller. Newer Hanses come with that eyebolt factory installed. The eyebolt is about 40-50cm below the roller, and is just about accessible from inside the anchor locker. Further down and you will need to do some remodeling of the front cabin to get access. 

To connect the eyebolt with the eye- on the anchor roller, I used a 8mm chain, tightened with an ordinary fork toggle. Some use Dynema here, I tried that, but found it difficult to tighten properly. Appreciate any ideas if others have succeeded in tightening a dynema setup. The important point is that there needs to quite a bit of (permanent) tension. The anchor roller really cannot handle much award pull without moving. The Code Zero experts much more upward pull than a genakker.

Second, we also fitted the mast with a new halyard opening, about 30cm above the forestay entry, and of course, a dedicated halyard. The problem is that on Hanse, as most production boats, the default spinnaker halyard is fitted to close to the forestay, basically through the same three-function Selden part that holds the forestay and jib halyard. This is too close for the free rotating spindle the you need at the head of the sail for the furler to function. The new fitting seems fine and we have had no issues of the head or roller getting stuck. I have seen reports of others having used furlers without installing a new halyard/entry above the forestay, but not sure how sustainable that is. 

Ours is a 2:1 solution, but really not convinced thats actually needed. 

We use Harken furler system. Very pleased with that. Using the same system for our genny. The torsion wire really works well, including perfectly manageable singlehanded, and it doesn't seem to build up the twist that others do. Been able to pull this in under reasonably stressful conditions. The roller has not let me down. However, be aware that the Harken wire is not supposed to be tensioned as much as other systems, and you need another load carrying line inside the luff of your code sail (dynema).

Our local UK sailmaker was terribly inexperienced with Harken, and messed this up, among other things he did wrong. I guess the lesson is, choose a system that your sailmaker is accustomed to...Also, make sure there is proper reinforcements to the Code sail of both head and tack, not only the clew. There are quite some forces on these points. Ours was not, and tore quickly. Now fixed, DIY, and works beautifully.

The concept is great. We only cruise, fast when we can, but have no idea of implications for ratings and regatta rules. Mostly managed singlehandedly. We have a four-winch cockpit, used creatively sometimes, meaning that I have been sheeting it to both the back and the forward winches. Actually, we only had two winches fitted on the first tours, and even that worked, although a little tricky at times to switch between mainsheet and code sheet. 

30 degrees is surely an exaggeration, and 140 may also be a stretch. The range is less wide, but still, its a favorite sail. 

Obviously, in relative light winds, guess we have used it to about 6 ms. It doubles the headsail area, and concequently, by far exceeds the stability that the boat is designed for. Use with caution and enjoy.

Kind regards,
I


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