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Martin&Rene
Vice Admiral Joined: 06 December 2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 833 |
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Plattgatt Do not worry; when I read a piece that I have written some months ago about something technical, I am not certain I always understand it the first time. some things are so obvious when you actually see them, but difficult to describe. I will try to do a drawing for you later this week, but I am no artist.
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Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
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Martin&Rene
Vice Admiral Joined: 06 December 2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 833 |
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Hope these diagrams held pa bit.
The
first diagram shows the overall layout of the third reef line. The rope is fastened to the boom, in a similar
manner to the other reefing lines, runs up to the leech 3rd reef point, back
down to the boom end through the pulley set and into the boom. At the front of the boom, the rope then comes
out through a turning pulley on the bottom of the boom, round a new turning
block, then up to the luff 3rd reefing point, down through a reefing
lead to the mast foot.
As I did not have a spare mast foot attachment point, I use
a block and fiddle pulley *, with the 1st reef line going around the
main pulley and the 3rd reef line going around the smaller
pulley. I do not use a double pulley, as
when it is only loaded on just one pulley, it twists and jams slightly. (*Barton size 4/5 ball bearing sheave fiddle block, reverse shackle) Now looking in more detail.
Under the reefing load, the turning pulley** by the front of the boom is
pulled upwards, so I have fastened its attachment rope to the mast kicker
fitting. (It is the white/blue rope you can see in the earlier picture.) As the pulley would fall when it is not under
load, a piece of shock-cord is fastened to the becket loop, goes through a
micro-pulley fastened to the mast gooseneck fitting and the down to the mast
kicker fitting. (This is the blue line
you can see in the picture.) (** Barton 4/5 single block, ball bearing sheave, reverse
shackle with becket) As friction is a problem on single line reefing systems, I
have added blocks at all turning points. For the 3 luff reefing points I used Barton swivel eye ball
bearing size 4 pulleys, as the pulleys wheels are covered on both sides. With the pulley on one side of the sail and a
50mm stainless steel ring on the other, I fastened them together with thin
dyneema lines, one line from the ring, through the sail eye and then to the
block and another line from the ring, round the front of the luff rope and then
to the block. The reefing lines now go
up and down on the same side of the sail, so the reefing lines will need
re-routing somewhere. If your sail drops
in a fixed set of folds, then try to match in the pulleys with the folds. For the 1st and 2nd reef leech pulleys
I used Harken T2 29mm blocks and fastened them to the leech eyes with loops of
dyneema about 20cm long. As described
previously, for the 3rd reef, I use a soft shackle, so I can
disconnect the leech 3rd reef line in light weather.
(For a 370, I would use 40mm blocks on the leech) |
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Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
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Magicol
Commander Joined: 16 June 2016 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 86 |
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Thanks Martin&Rene
The drawings are really helpful; I think you have devised a particularly creative and straightforward solution to managing the third reef. My mainsail is currently with the sail maker who will add the reefing points. I now understand how I can run the lines back to the cockpit. Thanks again for taking the time to explain your solution.
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Hanse 345 #237 based on the Clyde
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Magicol
Commander Joined: 16 June 2016 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 86 |
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I am in the process of adapting the systems described above to our 345’s rig.
The mainsail is with the sailmaker who will add the rings for the third reef.
Thanks again for all the advice. One last point; we have the continuous
mainsheet arrangement standard on the 345 with control on port and starboard
sides as in the photograph below. Any thoughts on tying off the port hand line
to free up the clutch? I guess there is the convenience of access on both sides
but is there also a safety issue? Any thoughts?
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Hanse 345 #237 based on the Clyde
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