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StavrosNZ
Rear Admiral Joined: 24 October 2014 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 556 |
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Hi Steve (Rubato) trudesign products are glass (glass fibre) filled nylon. Dont confuse this with skin fitting by Plastimo or others that simply Polypropylene and considerably inferior.
The Trudesign products have European, US, Bureau Veritas and International Marine certification. I would drop them an email regarding split resistance re: frozen water: http://www.trudesignmarine.com I have no affiliations with them but love their products.
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Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand |
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seileren1
Captain Joined: 02 May 2007 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 344 |
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Hi guys,
Last year I had my seacooks changed to trudesign. Of my 11 original sea cocks, one was so coroded that it was an imminent risk of leakage. The others were in various statens of corrosion. The boat is from 2012. Cheers Edited by seileren1 - 23 January 2018 at 22:09 |
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Rubato
Admiral Joined: 12 July 2006 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1791 |
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Thought I would share my inquiry to TruDesign regarding resistance to cracking due to freezing. Very quick, straight forward and positive reply.....
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Steve
Hanse 400e, #168 |
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silversailor
Admiral Joined: 25 May 2005 Location: South Haven, MI Status: Offline Points: 1021 |
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My Hanse has spent it's life (and continues to spend it's life) in fresh water. Do I need to be concerned about seacocks? What would those of you who are much more knowledgeable about this topic than me recommend?
Thanks. |
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Silversailor
South Haven, MI USA S/V Legacy 2010 Andrews 28 |
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Captain Cook
Admiral Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1009 |
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Hello Silversailor
The one to answer this question is yourself! The problem with brass seacocks, is that currents in the salt water steals the zinc from the brass. And when the brass contains 36-39% zinc, the seacock will look like a swiss cheese, when only the copper is left. I know for sure, that your saildrive is equipped with an zinc-anode like this If your anode looks brand-new, and you never had to change it, you have no worries. But if you, (like us sailing in salt water) have to replace it every year (because almost all the material is corroded away), your boat is subject to galvanic corrosion. The anode is offering easy-to-get electrons, because zinc is high in the reactivity series: If zink or magnesium is not present, the corrosion will happen in your aluminium-saildrive or in your brass-propeller. (And seacocks/thru-hulls). (Ouality propellers are made of bronze). I seem to remember, that many years ago, I saw an article where magnesium-anodes were recommended for sailing in brackish water or lakes. Corrosion in lakes depends primarily on the amount of salts in the water, but also the currents through the shore-power and from other boats can cause problems. The zink-saver that Hanse nowadays mounts in the boats is connected to the earth-wire of the shorepower. The zink-saver is a condensator, picking up homeless electrons. You also have a smaller condensator in your refrigerator and other electrical equipment. The zink-saver is (maybe) also a help if a lightning strikes the shorepower. In theory it will absorp the first peak of current from the lightning, so your HPFI relay get some milliseconds to trip before all the electronics have melted down. Back in 2006 when my boat was produced, Hanse included zink-savers for the overseas markets, but we Europeans had to buy it for ourselves. Edited by Captain Cook - 12 February 2024 at 20:49 |
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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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silversailor
Admiral Joined: 25 May 2005 Location: South Haven, MI Status: Offline Points: 1021 |
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Thanks Captain Cook. I'll be sure to check my saildrive anode when I get back to my boat in April. My recollection is that the anode looked very good last time I checked.
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Silversailor
South Haven, MI USA S/V Legacy 2010 Andrews 28 |
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Rubato
Admiral Joined: 12 July 2006 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1791 |
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The metal that your anode is made of should quite likely be different in fresh water than in salt water. I found this a good article.... https://www.boatingmag.com/how-to/choosing-right-sacrificial-anode
So you can see that while zinc can be effective in fresh water it will quite quickly oxidize and stop protecting whereas aluminum won't do that. Steve
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Steve
Hanse 400e, #168 |
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Ratbasher
Rear Admiral Joined: 31 May 2017 Location: Cyprus Status: Offline Points: 591 |
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Of course, any seacock is only as good as its fitting. On buying my 400 last year the surveyor raved about the Truedesigns that the previous owner had had fitted throughout. On launch all seemed ok with no obvious leaks but after some hours I did a further check on the lowest part of the bilges which is under the sink and not, as one might have thought, by the bilge pump; lesson No1. This showed a nice flow of water which caused me to pretty rapidly learn all about the structure of a 400 below the sole boards as they came flying off as nothing was evident from the usual suspect sources. After further weight-losing activity the shining of a light on the hull behind the seacock cluster in the heads showed what had previously been invisible: a thin but powerful flow of water was fanning out from the seacock bases against the hull. Lesson No2 was that a leak may not manifest itself as you might expect. Lesson No3 was that any leak from the Heads flows aft and fills the void space below the aft cabin sole. This then overflows into successive void spaces along the port side before crossing to stb under the cabin table and then flowing back under the galley sink. Lesson No4 was the realisation that by the time water reaches the bilge pump there's already a great deal of water onboard. Of course at sea this may be detected much earlier but not alongside. On lifting the boat the seacocks were found to be so poorly fitted that when one was tapped to remove it, it went flying out just missing the head of an unfortunate bystander below who was admiring my otherwise lovely new boat. The final lesson was a reminder that an owner must not rely on the word of another, no matter how highly qualified, for such critical items. If I hadn't done secondary checks later on and gone ashore, I might have been able to change the duff bulb at the top of the mast that the Surveyor had spotted using just my dinghy. Caveat Emptor. |
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H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard', Gosport UK
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Rubato
Admiral Joined: 12 July 2006 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1791 |
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Rat
So there was no bedding compound (Caulk) of any kind used? or were they the wrong size? |
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Steve
Hanse 400e, #168 |
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Ratbasher
Rear Admiral Joined: 31 May 2017 Location: Cyprus Status: Offline Points: 591 |
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They were the right size but insufficient bedding compound had been used and the seacocks were not properly tight. Its possible the previous owner hadn’t realised the mistake about the bedding compound and the working of the vessel in a seaway gradually loosened the threads.
I had the seacocks professionally rebedded with locking tape applied to the threads, another Lesson Identified. At least the bilges all got a good clean.... |
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H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard', Gosport UK
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