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top bearing problem H375

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    Posted: 02 March 2018 at 19:55
hanse 375 year 2010 rudder bearing problem
for the second time the screws of my bearing broke
the second time I was 900 miles from the Caribbean Islands and 1300 from the Cape Verde
also the movements of the top bearing to cause the breaking of the screws of the dd1 or is it the opposite?
you can not get access, you have to remove the cofres for that.
we had blocked with plywood and reduced the speed to arrive safely!
it is impossible to join a manager hanse .... to solve this weakness
 hanse must know this problem because another hanse 375 in France had the same trouble .... another hanse lost his rudder during a transatlantic!
so are some owners of 375 had these experiences and what solutions did they have
thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter-Blake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 March 2018 at 16:26
Do you have fotos?
Do you have single or double steering wheel?
Blake 370
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tango Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 March 2018 at 18:14
it s a double steering well


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tango Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 March 2018 at 18:51
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter-Blake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2018 at 13:34
1. On the first foto is see a laminated area around the bearing(Or is it some tape?). On the second i do not see it??
2. I am surprised how much everything (Alumnium) corroded looks. On my 370 from 2008 there is no corrosion at all!
3. I wonder how these screws seen from underdeck (Last foto) will hold? I see screws without nuts and also nuts without a washer only partly in the grp.....Strange

My 370 seems to have the same top bearing. But so for no sign of a problem, We have sailed about 12000nm so far.

I will take a look at my topbearing soon, how it looks there.....So far not problems at all.

BTW: The earthing cable (Yellow green) was on some modes (2008-2010?) a mistake as it was connected to the rudder and the engine/electrical system. All friends of mine with Hanses diconnected this. I think it is only ok if the cable is direct connected to a underwateranode and not to the electrical system.....Check it. There are some threads about this in the forum.


Edited by Peter-Blake - 04 March 2018 at 13:36
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tango Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2018 at 14:35
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1324/5000
Thank you for the answer
 
I use a translator because I speak English badly
on the picture 1: it is after the repair done. I resinated glass cloth and epoxy resin then an epoxy seal to solidify the bearing

foto 3: the screws without nuts are old broken screws there is no place to put washers. but the 4 new screws are tapped in aluminum and a nilstop nuts

for the grounding cable (yellow green) I disconnected it only in 2015 ... is that what caused the corrosion?

I do not know how the top bearing is mounted on the 370.
on the 375 it is placed on an inclined bottom and also on a wedge in ertalon inclined (it is the foto which has many holes because with each breakage it was necessary to offset the top bearing) .... which explains why the hole or just fit the top bearing is not quite round.
the boat sailed 33,800 miles it is an excellent boat it is a pity that this weakness exists. we made a fast traverse from Cape Verde to Martinique (17 days) with 9 days of reduced speed 5.5nds maxi because of this problem of top bearing.
I will see the system in France or I will leave the boat water because currently I am at anchor in Martinique and it is difficult to make a good repair reinforcement from below.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote StavrosNZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2018 at 22:02
i have 2010 400 twin wheel which has identical system to you, i have no issues nor do i have the problem with electrolysis like is evident in your photos. I did however have issues with my sail drive anode wasting away in a few months and I think your issues stem from the same issue. Your bolts and fixings have fatigued caused by the significant electrolysis and my recommendation is to separate the rudder stock from the the rest of the grounding system.

In the factory setup their is a large earth wire connecting the AC buzz bar and DC negative buzz bar which means that the rudder, keel, engine are all connected and sail drive anode is least noble so it chews out very quickly, once gone next most noble this will be your rudder stock. remove the large connecting cable from the 2 buzz bars, this means hull anode is now protecting the rudder and keel and sail drive anode is only protecting the engine and sail drive as it was designed to do.

You have no choice but to replace your bearings new bolts and fixings and start again.

I have significant entry on this subject going back a couple of years if you search.
Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tango Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2018 at 13:02
thank you for your answer she helps me move forward.
I looked at your posts very interesting I will see on this problem of electrolysis, the breakage of these screws is it due to electrolysis or a mechanical problem?
in one of your post we see the top bearing seen from below and the screws are just tapped in aluminum without nuts.
I think the hole was good without any play, which is not the case with mine.
I removed the green and yellow wire from the sector of the wheel bar but I do not know where it is connected from the other end.
I do not know where the AC buzz bar and the negative buzz bar are located on my boat
I do not see a hull anode on the hull of the boat
yes I have to replace the bolts but if it breaks again I can no longer shift the upper bearing, I must certainly fixing another aluminum plate underneath to be able to put new screws.
I think that for a new transatlantic I will install a hydrovane regulator that serves as a rudder at the same time.
I do not understand why Hanse did not do things right in the factory knowing that this is a weak point on their boats and that can be dangerous as you are more than 1000 miles to a port.
it's a shame because I love my boat, its behavior and its speed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StavrosNZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2018 at 21:39
yes i think it is likely your failure came from increased resistance and on shaft and bearings due to electrolysis and mechanical breakdown of screws.

You will find your AC and DC buzz bars under the switch panel behind the seat cushion and you will find the large connecting cable connecting the 2 buzz bars (its evident in my earlier posts on this subject). 

If you have a hull anode i would remove the cable between the 2 buzz bars and leave the rudder shaft bonded as this way the hull anode is protecting the rudder and once removed from engine/saildrive circlet the hull anode will last many years. If you don't have a hull anode then i would disconnect the earth wire from the rudder all together.
Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sea-U Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 March 2018 at 09:19
The earth for shore power should also be disconnected. People say....
Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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