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Cut holes to access bilge |
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toholthe
Commander Joined: 20 September 2017 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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Posted: 08 March 2018 at 21:48 |
I would like to cut holes to the inner liner in my Hanse 400 2007 in order to manually sponge out last drops of water in the bilge. Thinking two or three holes big enough for putting hand trough. Would this be a bad idea strength wise? Should not think round holes in this area would effect strengt, or?
Pic is from Hanse 370, but looks similar in our 400. Marked areas for potential holes |
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Gaga
Lieutenant Commander Joined: 04 April 2017 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 53 |
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I am using a vacuum cleaner to suck the remaining water
Fitting a small soft plastic pipe of about 1 cm diameter and access through the Holes which are between the floor boxes. It works and needs no additional holes. Just an idea which may be worth trying. |
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StavrosNZ
Rear Admiral Joined: 24 October 2014 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 556 |
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i would not cut holes of any significant size and number in the structural grid, this is arguably the most import part and most highly loaded part of your boat. Any holes will weaken the structure.
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Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand |
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SausalitoDave
Commadore Joined: 13 October 2014 Location: Sausalito Status: Offline Points: 366 |
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I had this problem when I first got my 505. I used a shop vac as Gaga described, and that works. However, About 3 years ago I bought a dehumidifier that runs whenever the boat is not in use. It has a humidistat, so it does not dry out the wood too much; however, it has completely eliminated mold anywhere (including below the sinks). I keep the doors to the cabins and under the sinks open. The boat is always perfect all the way down to the bilge.
Dave Festina Lente Sausalito, CA US
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Carlosailfan
Captain Joined: 06 March 2014 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 193 |
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Just an other approach, where is the water coming from ? In my opinion it would better to stop the ingress than drilling holes to let it pass. I would never drill holes into the structural frame, this is the hart of the ship.
My 385 is really dry after my latest intervention to take away the water leakage of the overflow valve from the warm water heather. Maybe i am a bit nerdy on that but water must be outside the boat and not inside. |
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Best regards
/C |
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Peter-Blake
Admiral of the Fleet Joined: 04 March 2008 Status: Offline Points: 2465 |
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Do not drill a hole there:
1. it is the major structural area, as stated already 2. You will not find the lowest part of your boat if you drill a hole there!! Why? In this area Hanse adds a thick bed of glue before inserting the inner structural construction of the hull. You will find a mountain of glue! 3. Use a endoscope camera for inspection though the existing holes in the next structural compartment beside the keel (See your foto). It works 4. Use a hose on a wet vacuum through the existing holes 5. Make sure you find the reason for the water ingress.
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Blake 370
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415 Singapore
Vice Admiral Joined: 23 September 2013 Location: Singapore Status: Offline Points: 826 |
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I totally agree with Carlos, after solving a couple of minor issues mainly with Air con condensate pumps and poorly fitted jubilee clips our 415 has been remarkably dry even during the heavy monsoon rains we can get here.
All the best Paul
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Paul - Night Train - 415 #136
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Ratbasher
Rear Admiral Joined: 31 May 2017 Location: Cyprus Status: Offline Points: 591 |
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Agree with general consensus; don’t do it. After an issue with leaking hull valves I described on another thread, I found that water channels through the bilges in a way you might not expect. The lowest part of the bilge is actually under the galley sink in a 400 and not by the bilge pump; indeed it seems like if it gets to the pump you’ve serious ingress already.
To get rid of residual water in the void spaces I use the oil vacuum pump which has a long, flexible nozzle that can be used to search out water. Every so often I lift the boards to give everything a good clean and allow evaporation, |
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H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard', Gosport UK
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toholthe
Commander Joined: 20 September 2017 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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Thank you for all the answers. I do not have any leak and my boat is completely dry (for now). After 10 years with different boats my experience is that there will eventually come water to the lowest level of the boat. It can be rain from a hatch we forgot to close, kids spilling drinks, leak from freshwater system, wet cloths dripping etc. etc. In my previous boats which was older boats without an inner liner I
have kept the bottom of the boat completely dry. Understand with the Hanse
I just have to live with the fact there will always be some moisture in the
spaces not able to dry out by towel. I will buy a dedicated oil extractor for
this purpose. Seems like a smart idea. I will also buy a 9V water alarm and put
under the sink so I know if any water is entering the boat. |
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Ratbasher
Rear Admiral Joined: 31 May 2017 Location: Cyprus Status: Offline Points: 591 |
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Good luck. Your suggestion of a water alarm below the sink is a good one. I just check the area as part of daily checks and always look there first if I’m at all concerned but agree that an early warning device would be smart as long as it’s not triggered by small amounts of the inevitable condensate.
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H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard', Gosport UK
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