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Fitting an autopilot to a 320

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nickfabbri View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickfabbri Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 August 2008 at 12:12
I placed the motor in the compartment and tried it from all angles. i also connected the drag link and tried it all before drilling the holes. I checked as well as allowable and I think it all worked fairly well. Again, I will check tommorow and take a series of photos.
 I do know that the installation is tight. If you are willing to take off the sikalex'd panel that is behind the removable panel and which I think plays a part in the support of the bathing platform, then you have more room to play with. With the panel in place it is impossible to drill the two holes securing bolts for the back part of the motor. I was not willing to do this and so had to accept a compromise on positioning.
What I will say is that the position of the motor allows me to go from full lock to full lock on the steering without the motor flange coming into contact with sides of the compartment.But at one point I have literally less than 1mm spare.
You are also faced with having to place the pin that holds the drag link to the motor underneath the flange. Otherwise there is not enough clearance  with the cockpit floor back in place. By the way changing it round was Gods own job as it had been Locktighted in place.
This means that the flange on the motor will not pass back across the motor with the draglink in place. This is again a limitation of the Hanse system.
I realise that this is very difficult to describe in words, but will try to remember pictures this weekend.
Nick71
Hanse 320
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Merinalle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Merinalle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 August 2008 at 22:14

Nick,

I installed it today. Thanks for sharing your experiences, it was very useful, indeed. I add some comments.

It seems to be impossible to reach correct offset because there is not enough room for it. But it can be made quite close, when the extra of the aluminium flange is cut away.

The problems with the mounting bolts are precise as you wrote.  Next time I might make a plywood model of the bolt holes and then drill the easy ones from outside and the ones under the rear panel from inside. However, I hope I don’t have to do it anymore.

320#166
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diederikv View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote diederikv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 December 2009 at 19:54
Nick, we just received our new Smile320 and are installing the autopilot in a couple of weeks. Please can you send me some pictures what you have done. We are using also the DD15 drive. I have made 2 pictures today of a possible position to my opinion. We will use the Simrad AP24 and we will built a complete N2K network in the 320.
 


Edited by diederikv - 01 December 2009 at 20:11
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Peter-Blake View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter-Blake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 December 2009 at 07:45
Interesting on your foto is that your ruddershaft is connected to a ground cable (yellow/green).
I do not have this connection on my boat, where the AP is installed from the yard. Did you connnect this or was it the yard?


Edited by Peter-Blake - 02 December 2009 at 07:58
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diederikv View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote diederikv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 December 2009 at 18:49
Peter, this has been done by the yard. Hanse has done a lot on that topic.
The following has been done:
1. connection to the rudder
2. connenction to the keel
3. connection to the tanks
4. connection to the Zincanode
5. connection to a Galv. isolator
6. connection to the 230V switch panel
7. connection to the Sterling 30A battery loader
 
Finally all the PE wires come to one earth bonding point and from there with one wire to the negative busbar
 
From the Galv. isolator to the shore PE.
 
Regards,
Diederik
 
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Merinalle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Merinalle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 December 2009 at 20:32

Here is a pic of our solution, and some experiences. (The picture was taken at winter; normally our boat is not that dirty.)




As mentioned before, there is not enough room to reach the correct offset. The main problem is that the axle of the drive unit should be a little more to port-direction. That is, the distance “A” on the pic should be a little smaller. However, there must be room for the aluminium flange to rotate, too. Notice that you must change the bolt “X” to the other position, so you can shorten the flange in order to minimize the distance.

The distance “C” should be at least 37 cm, at least in our yacht. Otherwise it is difficult to install the nut for bolt “B1”. Bolt “B2” is the easiest one, but the next ones (not marked) are more challenging.

Electrical connections are not difficult, just follow the instructions. We have our AP brains unit in aft cabin, that’s why all our cables are led to that direction. The rudder sensor was probably the easiest component to install.

The aluminium flange was easy to remove from the drive unit. Just open the Allen key bolts and spread the flange with a big screwdriver while lifting it out. The toughest part of our installation was, surprisingly, removing the bolt marked “X” from the aluminium flange. 
320#166
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diederikv View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote diederikv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 December 2009 at 11:29
test

Edited by diederikv - 23 December 2009 at 13:11
320#414
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diederikv View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote diederikv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 December 2009 at 13:24
Here 4 pictures to get an overview how to install a directdrive and rudderfeedback unit in the 320. This have been assembles by the Hanse boatbuilder as part of an integrated delivery. We will asseble this in a couple of days when the boat is free of ice and snow! Diederik
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skipper View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skipper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2010 at 23:14
The Simrad rudder feedback RF300 cable is rather too long in our installation, is it ok to cut the cable and skip 6 meter of cable?

Edited by skipper - 23 May 2010 at 23:15
Cheers,
Skipper
Former owner of Hanse 342 2005 (Sparcraft mast, white hull, wheel steering, deep draft keel, short rudder)
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diederikv View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote diederikv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2010 at 10:38
Skipper, this is no problem at all.  In our situation it is about 4 meters long to connect to the autopilot computer. I have attached a photo from it. The autopilot is functioning very well after the necessary calibration of course. We use the RC42 (rate compass) and the whole cabling has been replaced by NEMEA2000 certified components from Maretron to establish a very robust network. Success with the implementation.
Regards, Diederik
320#414
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