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isotherm fridge failure

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Idelfix View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Idelfix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2014 at 20:53

I pick it out and then put a new watercoold one outside under the floor





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Silver lining View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Silver lining Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2017 at 15:54
I realise this is an old thread, but, any help advice would be greatly appreciated. On my 400e 2007 #199 I find the fridge is not that cold,  I have been running this off the House battery, and not shore power, I do not know if this makes a difference ? - The ice box feels cold but not freezing, and I can here the compressor coming in.  I have removed the inspection panel to reveal a very tight space at the compressor to re-gas - I do not know how Hanse expect anyone to carry out maintenance in such a small space  !!
Has any 400 / 370 owners re-charged / re-gassed the compressor ? or how to access the ports ?
I believe it to be a Danfoss DB 35 compressor Unit , and the standard Isotherm Build in Fridge with top and front loader
This was the standard for Hanse 370 /400 models.
 
Isotherm model 3135FA2B00000  12/24V 
I think the gas used is R134a
 
Thanks,
'Silver Lining' 400e #199
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter-Blake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2017 at 10:07
@ Silver lining:

before you destroy anything: On my 370 (same fridge) it makes a huge diffrence between shore power and 12V vom battery only....
With shorepower i get ice in the fridge, with batterypower only, it gets cold after sometime, but no ice. Once the temp is low (by shore) enough, than the battery power is enough to hold the temp.

I do not know why, but it takes really long to get the fridge cool only by 12V supply. But it takes a lot shorter time if the shore power is connected.

Maybe the diffrence is, that with shorepower it is 13,6V instead of 12V.
I cannot explain it because i am not e eletrictian
Blake 370
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Silver lining Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2017 at 21:50
Thanks Peter , that makes sense .
I have never tried the fridge on shore power .
Just purchased the boat before Christmas .
If we are heading away for a cruise I might bring some
ice packs from home to give the fridge a head start
Don't want warm beers !
What setting approx do you keep your thermostat?
And Thankyou for your reply
'Silver Lining' 400e #199
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 June 2017 at 12:36
Maybe you should check the voltage at the compressor when it is running,
In my Hanse 400, I experience a voltage drop of 0,9 V from the battery to the compressor.
Thereby the compressor only recieves 11,9 V.
I have lived with a lukewarm refrigerator for more than 10 years, but now I will have the R134a coolant renewed, and run larger cables from the battery to the compressor. The old cables will be releasing the current  (with no voltage drop?) via a relay. 
For access to the compressor I had to make a small inspection hatch, because only a dwarf (sorry PORC) with snake-like arms could reach the compressor through the tiny access opening.
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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Silver lining Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2017 at 19:42
Thanks for that . The inspection hatch is so small, I am going to have cut the hole much wider . Have you checked if your compressor has the scrader valve to re-gas ? - also have you cut a section through under your cooker as well to gain better access ?
'Silver Lining' 400e #199
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2017 at 23:34
You have to take away the shelf under the cooker, it is glued to the walls and furthermore fastened with 4 screws. I used a special saw to separate it just where it is glued, so it can be replaced and still look good. You can see the refill-valve to the right of the compressor.
I have used 25mm/sq cable from the battery to avoid voltage drop, and as you can see, the old cables are used to trigger the relay.
I finished the work today, so I have no data whether the fridge works better or not, but I can verify that there is no longer a voltage drop at the compressor.
Kjeld





Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2017 at 23:45
Yeah- almost forgot.............. I put a LED through the wood so I could check the fault-codes.
It is connected to the little "+" and "D".
There are multiple pages on the net with explanation of error- finding the Danfoss DB35.
I got no flashes, so the system may be in order.
Kjeld
Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Silver lining Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2017 at 08:03
Looks to be an excellent job . I will take a look next time I am on the boat regarding the access at cooker
Thanks for your updates
'Silver Lining' 400e #199
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 June 2017 at 11:13
I did contact a technician for a price for changing the coolant, but no reply for now.
Maybe the problem is solved though. Yesterday I measured -10 degrees C in the frost-box after 2 hours. The thermostat was set at a medium position. Also the compressor is not running all the time as before.
The 12V for the cooling unit is taken from a battery bank of three AGM batteries(90 Ah), which I installed some years ago in front of the kitchen-zink. From here there are cables under the floor to the other batteries.
A picture of the valve for the R134a:



If I later should need access to the compressor, it's fairly simple


Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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