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Electrical diagrams deduced by owners |
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colincooper
Rear Admiral Joined: 23 October 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 562 |
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I was over on the Calira website looking up details of the voltage sensing relay. It is in German so a little hard to follow. I realised that they make all the electrics for the Hanse. This includes switch panels, charge relay and (i think) the tank level sensors. One goodie I found is the technical sheet for the switch panel in the 370. Have a look here. This is the panel on my 370 - not the newer layout shown above. However it shows the spec for the connection plugs which may be the same on the newer panel. It is going to make it a lot easier to work out those wiring harnesses coming from the panels. It also confirm all that discussion earlier about the ratings of switch fuses on the panel. Will post again if I find any goodies on that site. Anyone who speaks german care to identify any other bits. Look here. Edited by colincooper - 08 August 2006 at 13:52 |
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Colin (owner of Hilde - a 370)
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Popeye
Captain Joined: 12 September 2005 Location: Mongolia Status: Offline Points: 322 |
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Balticruisers comments are all spot-on, including reasoning for power consumption. I am going for a fix that will improve the weak link. Reason being is that I don't want bigger engine battery, and don't want to connect the winch to the house batteries for reasons of safety ... after lying in a natural harbour for many days (with flat house batteries), it's a "must have" that I can winch up the anchor. I'll be installing Sterling Power's advanced alternator regulator between the alternator and the two battery packs. Need to route one heavy duty cable directly from the alternator, bit of a messy job. And then throw away the Calira black box. |
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Popeye the sailorman
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colincooper
Rear Admiral Joined: 23 October 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 562 |
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Popeye - would be interested to hear your experiences of fitting the Sterling. For example, how easy is it to get the "field" connection on the alternator. Does that require a mod to the alternator? It did on the older GM Yanmars. I can't wait to check how Hanse has wired my windlass. It has the extra feature of only being able to use the windlass when the ignition key is on. This is apparently for extra security. |
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Colin (owner of Hilde - a 370)
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colincooper
Rear Admiral Joined: 23 October 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 562 |
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Popeye. I'm sure the Stirling is a good solution since it gives lots of advantages. One simple alternative for you would be to add a high current switch on the cable from the Calira black box to the domestic batteries. You could then disable the auto-charging of the domestic batteries whenever you wanted; when you use the winch or wish to charge the engine battery quickly. |
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Colin (owner of Hilde - a 370)
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Balticcruiser
Captain Joined: 23 August 2005 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 150 |
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Popeye, Indeed an important aspect as you point out mentioning that running the winch/windlass from domestic batteries could be a potential safety issue after some days mooring. I was myself quite sure that the best solution would be to connect to domestic batteries, but now I realise that your improved charge relay functionality is definitely the best solution. Can I find information about this Sterling alternator regulator on the net? Colin, I recommend you to check out the actual electrical characteristics of the Calira unit before trying out your switch solution. If you add this switch and operate it when the alternator is running it might damage your charge relay and/or alternator. /Balti |
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colincooper
Rear Admiral Joined: 23 October 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 562 |
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Balti, put the switch in the cable beween the domestic and Calira unit. That then just negates the relay. The alternator remains attached to the engine battery and safe and charging. That's the theory anyway. Agree you had best treble check connections before even thinking of implementing. |
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Colin (owner of Hilde - a 370)
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Popeye
Captain Joined: 12 September 2005 Location: Mongolia Status: Offline Points: 322 |
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Agree that an old fashioned "big red switch" could be used to disconnect the house batteries when winching, but risk is then that it gets forgotten, and after some hours of motoring and arriving in a peaceful anchorage then the house batteries are still flat... I have pondered lot's of quick fix and permanent solutions during the last 2 weeks of my summer holiday on the boat, i.e. after the Calira melted it's fuses. And had plenty of time to study the routing and workings of the wiring from the alternator to the batteries. Ref. the Sterling thingy, I won't go for the cheaper unit that also needs a bunch of extra wiring and dismantling of the alternator (technically it's straight forward, but I have already used this years quota of lying on my belly with my upper torso stuck in cupboards with hands full of wires). To install the more expensive unit (AB1290) is one new cable from the alternator (as a swap for the existing red cable out of the alternator, i.e. no need to open the unit) then plug'n'play connections to the batteries (best done by connecting to wires 1 and 2 out of the shore power charger). And it gives two unique and specific charge profiles to the engine and house batteries, which the cheaper unit doesn't do. Shame that it costs twice the amount of the cheaper unit. And most importantly for me, since I have my boat on a mooring all year (i.e. no land power, no proper charging, therefore no de-sulphation of the batteries; and they die within 1-2 years) it gives a de-sulphation charge profile from the alternator; dramatically increasing capacity and battery lifetime. Not trying to be a salesman for Sterling, the technology is the same as all who make advanced alternator regulators. My reason for choosing Sterling is they deliver the shore power charger already, they are in the UK, and they seem to know their stuff. Immediate reply on email questions.
Edited by Popeye - 09 August 2006 at 20:49 |
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Popeye the sailorman
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Balticcruiser
Captain Joined: 23 August 2005 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 150 |
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Thanks for the link! Lots to read there. One thing that came to my mind. Does anyone have an estimate as to roughly how much power an anchor winch will consume? As I'm sailing in the Baltic Sea my main use/interest is in a transom mount winch, i.e. not the windlass. Is it a transom mount winch what you have installed Popeye? If so, which brand? Preferrably I would like to be able to use the anchor winch also in some cases without starting the engine when conditions are right for setting sails at once. With the winch connected to the engine battery there is of course the danger of a flat battery... /Balti |
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Popeye
Captain Joined: 12 September 2005 Location: Mongolia Status: Offline Points: 322 |
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I have both Transom and Bow winches, installed myself. Both are Quick Genius 800W without Freefall. Very happy with them. The Transom one is installed inside the aft locker, right beside the Webasto heater, on a custom bracket. It runs on rope with lead, and the front runs on 8mm chain. Both use 15kg Bruce anchors. They are fused at 80 Amps. I have once pulled up the anchor on battery alone (sailed away from the anchorage, very nice) and I had plenty of power left for the engine start later on. |
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Popeye the sailorman
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Mimosa
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 29 November 2005 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Is it possible to provide a picture of a bow winch ? We overlooked that option with the changing order from the 371 to the 370 ( at that time there was no optionlist for 370 ). Thanks in advance, Patrick Bloemen,Mimosa-Ostende, KYCN-Nieuwpoort |
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