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Fuel filter / seperator location

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350Bob View Drop Down
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    Posted: 06 October 2018 at 17:30
Hi,

My primary fuel filter / seperator is, I presume, in its original location, close to the diesel tank underneath the berth in the starboard cabin. I find this a rather inconvenient location to access for inspection and even worse if you actually have to drain anything from it.

I was consequently considering relocating it to the engine compartment where it would be conveniently accessible when carrying out other engine checks. It would be perhaps 20 cm higher although I donít see that as a problem; has anybody done anything like this or can anybody see any problems with doing this?

Many thanks

Bob
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 October 2018 at 20:43
I did not have to move mine far but it was in a difficult place to change the filter. My solution has been to fit a 600mm longer fuel hose on the engine side. The hose on the tank side is easy to disconnect.( remembering to turn the fuel off first)
I have put 2 No bolts through the bulkhead with nuts set flush with the surface so the bolts stand proud like 2 studs. The filter is mounted on these 2 studs with additional nuts & washers. When released the bolts/studs stay in place due to the nuts set into the bulkhead.
I can now lift the filter unit clear of the engine bay over a bucket where I can change the filter without a mess & where I can do it easily whilst at sea. Hopefully avoiding seasickness!!!!!
I can replace the filter, all excess fuel goes in the bucket, tighten the nuts. Reconnect the hose to the tank, tighten the jubilee clips.
To bleed the system I find the Volvo lift pump ineffective, so I have fitted a bellows pump just after the primary filter (as fitted to RIB outboards, but for diesel). This also bleeds the primary filter to the engine if required & when squeezed the fuel can be heard circulating past the injectors back into the tank. So even if I only ran out of fuel the bellows would be handy to bleed the system. I would not need to use battery power to turn the engine over to get fuel through (which may lead to a flat battery at the wrong moment)


Edited by samuel - 06 October 2018 at 20:48
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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350Bob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 350Bob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 October 2018 at 09:05
Thanks Samuel, I particularly like the idea of the studs and of the bellows; are the bellows special for diesel or does the standard petrol one work OK?

The other thing which had considered while working in that area was fitting a 12v actuator to the diesel isolation valve as I donít like the idea of burrowing under the starboard bunk if there is a fire in the engine compartment. I would also appreciate any thoughts on this.

Bob
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 October 2018 at 17:42
I do not know about an actuator. As for fire, diesel is less flammable than petrol, so I would not have thought it to be such a worry. That being said, fires do occur. But do they occur very often  in properly managed private yachts (as opposed to, say, scruffy liveaboards, up some canal!!)?
Regarding the bellows: They must be ones specifically for diesel & they are readily available on chandlers shelves.
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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rispinge View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rispinge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 October 2018 at 21:25
Sounds interesting but I do not totally understand. Could you upload a picture?

Best regards,
Henk
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 October 2018 at 21:46
Perhaps this link will work
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rubber-Primer-Diesel-Petrol-Inline/dp/B00VM07LRW
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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rispinge View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rispinge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 October 2018 at 22:14
Originally posted by samuel samuel wrote:

Perhaps this link will work
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rubber-Primer-Diesel-Petrol-Inline/dp/B00VM07LRW


Thanks.. but actually I meant a picture of the following:

Quote I have put 2 No bolts through the bulkhead with nuts set flush with the surface so the bolts stand proud like 2 studs. The filter is mounted on these 2 studs with additional nuts & washers. When released the bolts/studs stay in place due to the nuts set into the bulkhead.


Henk.
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 October 2018 at 07:52
Sorry, but the place is so confined I doubt that I could  get a camera in to photo it.

All I did was change the 2 screws that hold the filter to the bulkhead & put 2 no. 50mm long 8 mm stainless steel set screws (bolts threaded for their full length) through the wall so they projected out 35mm where the filter has to go. I then put a nut on each one & tightened them very tight so they did not fall out. The nuts were sunk into the wood they were so tight & flush with the face of the bulkhead.

The heads of the bolts could be countersunk so they look neater on the exposed face in the bedroom.
The reason the nuts have to be flush with the face is so that when the filter is in place it sits flat against the bulkhead. If the nuts stood proud the filter would rock about on the nuts & vibrate.

Then instead of fitting the filter with screws I just put the filter on the projecting bolts & hold with 2 more nuts & washers. To remove the filter I just take off the top nuts & washers & the bolts stay in place because they are in tight held by the first set of nuts. If one wants one can use butterfly nuts for the top nuts but I find a ratchet socket spanner just as convenient.

Is that the bit that you were having problems with??


Edited by samuel - 21 October 2018 at 08:19
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rispinge View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rispinge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 October 2018 at 10:40
Thank you Samuel. Now I get the full picture. Great idea!

Henk

Edited by rispinge - 21 October 2018 at 10:41
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