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Twisting Furling Line

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Fendant View Drop Down
Admiral
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    Posted: 07 May 2017 at 13:14
I still have the jib furling line which was originally supplied with the boat. This line drives me nuts as it is consistently twisting and consequently jamming when you unfurl the jib.
Are there recommendations for a non-twisting ( non kinky ) furler line material ?
Thx in advance


Edited by Fendant - 07 May 2017 at 14:52
Frank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kipwrite Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2017 at 01:38
This drove me completely crazy on my 505 as well...until a Good Samaritan pointed out that the selden block at the clew of the jib has a little gray bar that locks or unlocks the block's swivel function. Once I set the block's swivel to the locked position the twist problem never reappeared.

If your block doesn't have this lock on it, I'd replace it with one that does.

Makes life better.

Happy to send a photo next time I'm down at the boat.
Kipwrite
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chrgra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2017 at 08:57
I had the same on my hanse 385. When I was looking for a fixed one, I discovered the block I (we) have, could be fixed by changing the state of the grey nut/slider!!
Hanse 385 Charlotte #363
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 415 Singapore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2017 at 13:45
Hi Frank, not sure if this is the same problem in that the furling line gets loops in it as it winds onto the drum when you unfurl the jib, then when you come to furl it, it won't? If it is, what we have found is that it is better to keep some tension on the furler line as you unfurl the jib, really bad news if you just let it loose! But even doing this doesn't always help.  We too have the original furler rope so if anyone can recommend a better one I would be very happy :)
All the best
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Axel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2017 at 19:59
I have made the same experience. The furling line was twisting and drove us crazy. I bought a Liros top cruising line of 8 mm. It works fine. The original line is probably a very cheap brand.
Axel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote S&J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2017 at 20:45
Frank, although you have referred to "furling line" your description and the first couple of replies sounds like you mean jib sheet.

My 385 was delivered with a 10mm sheet which was attached directly to the clew of the sail i.e. single line rather than double purchase.

Last season I bought a longer rope to allow me to use a block on the clew and gain a double purchase.  I used the recommendations in the Hanse handbook and bought 12mm rope.  This has not worked at all as the thicker line has much more friction.  I also experience the twists that you describe and even though I have locked the block I still get them.

This season I will experiment with a thinner rope again.  I may even go down to 8mm dyneema.  The jib sheet seems to take considerable load when sheeted in tight.  I'd be interested to know what specification other boats use for their jib sheet.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2017 at 21:09
If your problem is that it is the furling line that is coming from the furler bottom drum, then I am guessing that you mean the rope is getting twisted into loops as you pull the jib out and it jams in one of the blocks.  

On my boat, I follow a strict practice of coiling a 3 part laid rope in loops, but any form of plaited rope is coiled in a figure of eight manner and in that way it does not get any twists in it and it runs freely.

For the furling line, I have a Barton stanchion cleat mounted on the pushpit bars and the end of the furling line is threaded through its base hole and tied off with a figure of eight knot.    When I furl the jib, I cleat the furling line off on the cleat with the furling line tight.  That means I then have a loop of the furling line coming from the cleat.  I just coil this in figure of eight loops starting from the cleat.  finish off with the normal loops round the top of the coils, push the final loop though the inside of  top of the coil and use that to hang the coil on the cleat.   

When unfurling the jib, I can just take the rope of the cleat, push the final loop back through the coil, and then drop the coils on the deck and they are in effect flaked out and will run smoothly.  

A side benefit is that I do not have the full length of the furling line ready to jump over the side and wrap itself round the prop.    

The only photo I have is not very good, but if you pm me your email address, I will send it to you
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2017 at 21:32
Just find out that the climbers call this method of coiling rope a butterfly coil.

See

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8X90k5U6vQ

I use a similar method  on the shore cable as well and do not get any jams in that. 
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fendant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 11:37
It is the furling line indeed, not the job sheet which never has caused a problem. My furling line runs through a jammer mounted before the psuhpit and then through a Selden block mounted at the pushpit. This is the spot were the kinks occur. I even use a trick from my dinghy time and let the furling line uncurl in the water while underway, before securing the line.

I will try Axel's recommendation and switch to the Liros 8 mm.
Frank
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