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Halyard Clutch

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catarch View Drop Down
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Location: Hyannis, MA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote catarch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Halyard Clutch
    Posted: 10 July 2017 at 13:34
We have the optional Dyneema halyards on Abide and we have not been able to get the clutch to hold the main fast. We have tried a core bulk and the line still slips. Weare considering adding a second clutch forward of the bank of 4 clutches but to safely do that we will need a plan showing where the embedded aluminum deck plates are. Does anyone know where I can get that information?

A more expensive alternative would be to spring for a better and thicker main halyard but that is likely to cost upwards of $900 US. 

I don't understand why hanse has not solved this problem as it seems like a pretty basic requirement. We have been keeping the halyard on the winch to keep it from slipping but that obviously makes it pretty hard to trim the jib.


Tom Catalano
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 415 Singapore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2017 at 14:25
Hi we had exactly the same problem with Night Train, the Hanse supplied  halyards were always slipping, especially the main. Our dealers response was to give us a new thicker main halyard, whilst this worked I felt it was unnecessarily heavy. What we did was change the cams in those clutches to the next size down and no problem since then. The cams are relatively cheap and easy to swap over. I definitely wouldn't go for another clutch in front of the first bank.
Good luck
Paul
Paul - Night Train - 415 #136
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catarch View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote catarch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2017 at 14:44
Thanks. I am going to try the ceramic clutch in a smaller size.
Tom Catalano
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Rubato View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rubato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2017 at 17:37
The problem usually occurs because Dyneema is stronger than most other materials which allows smaller diameter line to be used which then causes slippage. As Paul (Night Train) mentioned, a quick solution is to swap the cam in the rope clutch to the size for smaller diameter line.
Steve

Hanse 400e, #168
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote S&J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2017 at 00:06
Just swapped mine down to 6-10mm cam and these have solved my problems.
Inspiration (my dealer) supplied new cams (not ceramic) for main and jib (but not spinnaker) and I needed to fit these myself.
It is a straightforward job but you need a large Phillips head screwdriver to undo the 10 bolts and then I had to take the first side cover off which allows me to prise the entire bank of clutches from the silicone sealant.
Search YouTube for and overview from spinlock.
H385 #351 Ningaloo now cruising the Baltic
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Rubato View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rubato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2017 at 01:46
I was able to do mine (400e) without removing the bank of clutches from the boat.
Steve

Hanse 400e, #168
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote S&J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2017 at 16:51
I can't see how you managed to replace the cams without removing at least a couple of the jammers from the deck. Did you just take off the side cover?
I needed to change the 2nd jammer in a block of 5 for the main halyard.

Actually once I got a large enough screwdriver it was easy and probably worthwhile as it allowed me to clean up all the base plates.  I also found that two of the other cams were badly worn and I was able to swap these with ones that were being replaced with smaller cams, which strangely were not so badly worn.  

The fact that the cams being replaced were not worn convinced me that the standard cams are simply not suited to 10mm dyneema dispite being approved for 10mm line.  In the two years since commissioning the boat I had never prevously managed to get the main luff tight.  Now I can and the battens "pop" during a tack.

H385 #351 Ningaloo now cruising the Baltic
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Rubato View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rubato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2017 at 17:10
Yup, took off the side plates and slid out the rods that go through the complete bank. In other words, you essentially have to dismantle the clutches from the outside inward to get at the one you want. It's amazing how much rope fuzz collects in there isn't it!
Steve

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Brufan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brufan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2017 at 18:45
Instead of swapping an expensive piece of kit, You could also add an (technora or dyneema) sleeve over the rope right where the clucth jams rope (approx 1 or 2 feet).  
Easy to do as far as you are a bit used to splicing (see video on youtube about this).  Don't forget to do the same further high where halyard stops for reef 1 & 2 (& 3 if applicable)
Bruno

hanse 355 - 57

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White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system (modifications done now), Simrad-Jefa autopilot.
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Mark&Catherine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark&Catherine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2017 at 19:06
I have done this with the outer cover of braid on braid, just sewn onto the halyard. I didn't bother with the reef points as I don't use the self tracker, so I leave the halyard on the winch.
385 ubulukutu sail number GBR 3350L in Turkey and Greece with Mark and Catherine
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