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JonB View Drop Down
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Joined: 21 September 2010
Location: Cowes
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JonB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 October 2018 at 10:10
This shot shows the two blue pipes from the freshwater side of the engine both in black corrugated tubes heading to the back of the bay to feed the Clarifier, with the white are the cold feed and hot return of the boats plumbing system.





This shows the pipe more clearly.



Here's the front showing the two blue pipes take off points
and re-appearing above
at the top



Hot water in from the engine is next to the hot water out of the plumbing system
cold feed in from the plumbing is lower down and still a white pipe.

The grey box with the white cable is the shore immersion heater and you can just make out the pressure relief valve at the rear (in front of immersion heater warning label)

I took a few others of the 3 pin electrical socket (UK Wiring) at the back where the immersion takes its power source but the flash appears not to have helped.

Hope these help
Jon B
470e
http://www.norse-king.blogspot.co.uk
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tobo2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tobo2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 October 2018 at 12:34
Add these anodes and you are on the safe side against electrolysis. (After 4 waterheaters in 10 years I can say I'm quite experienced). Also check if you have a galvanic isolator (no standard on old Hanse yadhts!) and maybe also a polarity switch for shore power.




Edited by tobo2 - 05 October 2018 at 12:35
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JonB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JonB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 October 2018 at 17:10
Hi Tobo,

I think you use yours much more than us but we've only had the original unit. On his mooring there's no shore power, hence the need to find a decent and reliable wind generator. Although I have taken an earth lead from the engine to the base of the generator and wired in a manual anode.

This seems to stop the pitting of the prop that I replaced and thought to be brought about by the housing estate opposite which is primarily earthed by the metal piles within the adjacent marina. The only long periods when he's on shore power is when he's out of the water for 3 months over winter.

Do you get a water leak from a joint, is that how it starts?
Jon B
470e
http://www.norse-king.blogspot.co.uk
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tobo2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tobo2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 October 2018 at 10:17
Dear JonB

Leakage detection: It always occured the same way: The expansion bowl of the freshwater system - due to this unlucky position of the boiler above the engine and therefore higher water pressure - was overflowing which I didn't understand in the beginning. It especially happened when the engine stood still and when the freshwater pump was on. So also the freshwater pump didn't live long!

The reason was clear - after I understood the pluming situation: The heating coil had a hole although it should be stainless steel with a three years warranty. So Isotherm had to supply me with new boilers twice. I also let insall another anodes on the keel. 

Lesson learned: Try to avoid to heat the waterheater electrically, install anodes and - as you did - add a good earthing to avoid stray current. You might be lucky in one marina and in the next they have an unsufficient earthing installation and never moor next to a steel yacht!


Edited by tobo2 - 06 October 2018 at 10:23
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Joey D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joey D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 December 2018 at 19:32
I need to add coolant to my 2014 Hanse 415, are there any recommendation?

Thanks

Joe
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Jackie Arnold View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jackie Arnold Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 December 2018 at 05:37
Joe

Your engine manual has the recommended product.
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Joey D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joey D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 December 2018 at 11:42
Ok will have a look thanks
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JonB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JonB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 December 2018 at 11:47
Morning Joe,

Its a cast iron block with rubber hoses, like 90% of all engines that have been produced across the world.

Don't be fooled into thinking that you must get a Yanmar product unless of course your engine is still under warranty and it specifically expresses the use of their products otherwise it invalidates it.

What do you put in your car?  If it copes with the temperature ranges that you live in, or where the boats kept, then that's fine.  Just also think outside of the box in that if your boat is out of the water then the air temperature beneath the hull will be that much colder than if it is in the water.  So you may need to increase the percentage of the mix.

I built three rally cars in my younger days and bought anti-freeze from my local Auto shop, bearing in mind the amount of time I'd change fluids I couldn't afford engine manufacturers product but used products produced by well-known names and checked whether it was glyco or methanol I think it was.  One allegedly didn't evaporate like the other.  I also used to put my finger in the radiator top and if it tasted sweet then it was ok, not scientific nor have I died from it, but I bet there's a health & safety recommendation out there.

Remember a boat is like a caravan, so think of your furnishings over winter too, damp camping at the best of times!
Jon B
470e
http://www.norse-king.blogspot.co.uk
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Martin&Rene View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 December 2018 at 17:04
The Isotemp water heater manual that I have for my yacht has the following comment.
"When leaving the boat for longer periods, it is recommended to disconnect the power supply cable plug.  This should be done even if the shore power system is shut off, as there can be a difference in the electrical system, between the earth lead and the salt water earth on the boat.  This can seriously damage the water heater and/or engine with propulsion equipment."

On my yacht, the cable coming from the water heater has a plug and socket in the rear locker and I do actually always unplug it between trips, as it is on my "going home" checklist.  Even though I know my yacht has a galvanic isolator, I do not leave it plugged in to the shore power between trips.  If I want to leave a heater in the cabin at the ends of the season, then I take the shore power cable direct to a timer in the cabin.
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout & shallow keel, normally based in Scotland
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JonB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JonB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 December 2018 at 22:15
A 'timer' in the cabin, all sounds very complicated, what is this 'timer', either you're on shore power; out of the water; or remote.

Interesting comment about the Isotemp heater though as others seem to have had to add anodes to prevent damage to their units.
Jon B
470e
http://www.norse-king.blogspot.co.uk
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