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Jefa Direct Drive Unit

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Peter Russell View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter Russell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2013 at 11:50
I had this problem on my 370 a couple of years ago. Kept on blowing fuses (interesting trying to find all the fuses in the system...).
I took the unit to pieces and it was clear that water had got in - probably through the cover where the wires enter and (in my case) there is a fuse also in there. The motor had corroded badly and it was this that was causing the problem. The rest of the unit was still perfect.

I emailed Jefa and there were no problems with them sending me a replacement motor which I fitted and then used liberal sealant to ensure water did not get in again.

As some have said previously they are not designed to be used in areas where there is significant water. I guess the 400 is similar to the 370 in so much as to where the unit is placed and the ability for that area to flood when washing down or in heavy rain.

Since I did the repair work it has worked perfectly
Peter Russell

Hanse 370 hull 499 "Outnumbered"



http://outnumbered.the-russells.net
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Sea-U View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sea-U Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2013 at 15:24

Mk1 or Mk2?

My drive from 2008 has two wires coming out from top as you see on jefa's pages.

Seem to remember a picture of a drive unit with an access plate where wires came form. Thought this was the problem units.

Now the question: What should I do with my drive from 2008? No problem so far, but reading about it I wander if I should add sikaflex to the wire joints and try more to make it waterproof.

Or possibly open it and look for water?

Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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panos View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote panos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2013 at 16:53
Hi,

I would try to open it anyway. There are gears inside and all gearboxes need lubricant change every now and then.
I regularly open and change lubricant and seals every two years to anchor windlass and bow thruster and every four years to electric winches ,electric furler (Bamar) and steering system reducers. The Jefa autopilot motor and gears escaped till now. I will do it over the winter.

Also check- in case the electric motor has brushes- if they are worn and need replacement and if the clutch is clean of dust.

Edited by panos - 05 June 2013 at 16:55
Panos

Hanse 630e - selling her -
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CharlesP View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CharlesP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2013 at 17:00
I put silicon around the areas and wires where they enter the unit. No problem so far except for a fuse blowing last season. I've since bought a job lot of 12 fuses so that should guarantee that .particular fuse will not blow again.

Charles
'MERIDIAN LADY'

320 Nr 536 2010

Medway
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sea-U Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2013 at 17:12

By the way....

The clutch... how much current does it draw? I read something that it draws 1.5 ampere. Is it really that much? I have also read that the hole unit draws around 2 ampere. Then I would say that there is a lot to save if another design could remove the clutch.

This all makes sense as my prevoius Autohelm 4000 wheelpilot was using around 0.5 ampere and there was no clutch.

All this is more or less flat water and little wind. 

Is this right?

Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Sea-U View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sea-U Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2013 at 17:14
Good idea to fill the boat up with fuses..... Then no fuse will ever break. Big smile
Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Brufan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brufan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2013 at 17:22
The clutch uses 1,5 Amp but only when it en/disengage.
Bruno

hanse 355 - 57

S/Y Spicy Ginger

White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system (modifications done now), Simrad-Jefa autopilot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sea-U Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2013 at 19:27

I am afraid you are wrong Brufan.

Found this:

Electro magnetic clutch: On the moment the mechanical steering system on the yacht is manually operated, the autopilot drive has to be disconnected from the steering system. This is achieved with the electro-magnetic clutch and controlled automatically by the autopilot junction box. Jefa has developed a unique and patented engagement clutch. The solution is based on two electrically operated spring loaded clutch pins that engage and disengage the outer gear ring of the planetary gear step. This solution has multiple advantages over the existing friction plate clutches:
Less friction to back drive the unit.
Lower power consumption (1.4 Amp. at 12 Volt). When the clutch isn't powered, it's disengaged and engaged when powered.
The clutch doesn't wear in time.
More compact than any friction clutch.
When the autopilot is switched off, the helmsman isn't suddenly confronted with the full rudder torque, but has to put loading on the wheel to equalise the forces so the the clutch can disengage, making the manual take over much safer.

As I understand this, it says it draws 1.4 ampere only for the clutch: " When the clutch isn't powered, it's disengaged and engaged when powered."

Pitty Cry

Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Lippe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lippe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2013 at 21:48
Originally posted by CharlesP CharlesP wrote:

I put silicon around the areas and wires where they enter the unit. No problem so far except for a fuse blowing last season. I've since bought a job lot of 12 fuses so that should guarantee that .particular fuse will not blow again.

Charles


Hi,

I put flexible (garden) water hoses around el- wires, sikaflexed hoses to the DD1 unit and brought them though the hull inside the boat wires inside. This way the the unit can breath and wires & connections remain dry.

Best Regards
Kari
"True sailor doesn't ask for proper wind. He learns how to sail"
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panos View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote panos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2013 at 22:30
Hi,

While the clutch draws something between 0.7 and 1.5 A only while engaged the total consumption of the unit depends on the conditions and the sail trim. The pilot can supply a whopping 30A to the Jefa motor and to supply this power I estimate that draws more than 40A from the battery (a 75% efficiency is normal in electronic power circuits). Of course this high consumption is only during a course correction under max load. Depending on conditions only about 5% of the time the pilot will actualy turn the rudder and I also estimate that only 30% of max power will be used so the average current will calculate something like 0.05X40/3=0.67A. To this we have to add the power drawn by the clutch and the control unit. Total amperes calculate to about 2.5A
But engage the above pilot in big wave conditions, sailing downwind carrying a spinnaker and the pilot makes corrections using maximum power at a 30% duty cycle. The the average amperage could be 0.3X40=12A plus 1.5A for the clutch and electronics which add up to 13-14A. Overheating and fuse blowing will be expected.
Panos

Hanse 630e - selling her -
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