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Magicol View Drop Down
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Joined: 16 June 2016
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Magicol Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Main sheet
    Posted: 10 November 2017 at 21:49
Hello everyone. I am looking for yet more advice. I want to add a third reef to our 345 which, like reefs 2 & 3 is controlled from the cockpit. Because of the height involved I know I cannot have a single line controlling this reefing point however I think 2 lines will allow this. So far so good but I will then need 2 clutches to control the reef. I have one spare clutch. There isnít really sufficient space to add more clutches and this is where the main sheet comes in. I have the standard 345 continuous sheeting line which can be controlled on both port or starboard sides. Has anyone tied off one of these lines? This would free up one of the clutches. Will this have any impact on controlling the main? What would be the consequences of doing this?
Any thoughts or comments on this would be much appreciated.
Hanse 345 based on the Clyde
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415 Singapore View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 415 Singapore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 November 2017 at 09:58
Hi, we haven't installed a third reef, but wanted to free up one of the clutches for a cunningham. Having sailed the boat for a few seasons we had rarely used the port main sheet as the jib sheet is on the same side. So now we sheet the main only on the starboard side, no problems to date although in windy conditions you do have to remember that you can only ease the main from the starboard side.
Paul - Night Train - 415 #136
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Magicol View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Magicol Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2017 at 12:54
Thanks Paul. This is helpful. I recognise that there might be some inconvenience but gaining the clutch wiould be helpful.
Appreciate the reply.
Colin
Hanse 345 based on the Clyde
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samuel View Drop Down
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Joined: 26 December 2004
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2017 at 07:44
On my boat I overcome the third reef problem in 2 ways -
first -by transfering the clew outhaul (Thus using the same clutch) to a strop ( the strop goes under the boom) the 2 ends of which sit inside the cover when not in use. When I want to use it i lower the sail & pass one end through the loop of the other end & hook it to the old clew outhaul. as the outhaul is winched in it tightens down on this strop & also pulls the clew aft as well as down.
At the luff I have a strop with 2 snap shackles. This hangs on the spinnaker ring all the time & in rough weather i use it as a hand hold as shown in the picture. When I reef it passes under the spinnaker ring ( which stops it riding up the mast) & hooks on to the reef rings of the sail on either side. This holds the sail down & keeps it forward against the pull of the clew.
I then can tighten the halyard as hard as I like
It does mean I have to drop the sail & let the boom end come into the cockpit to transfer clew outhaul to reef point & then go forward to do the forward point but it means a bullet proof reef & I can use the existing clutches.
Second-In this picture you will see a line attached to the blue strop. This is not the clew outhaul but a spare line as I later found I could free up another clutch. So I put the line in & it lays connected to the strop but the strop is not looped through the other end. The knot is to stop the other end dropping out of the cover.. So now to reef I disconnect the line, threadle the strop then re connect the line & do not have to use the clew outhaul. It is there as a reserve though


Edited by samuel - 14 November 2017 at 08:24
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2017 at 08:13


To free up a cleat I stole this idea from a Figaro race boat & use it for my topping lift.
It could be used for a cunningham. The dynema line just has room to sit round the base of the winch & has not suffered any abrasion after 2 seasons use. The bolts of the aluminium plate are prevented from damaging the deck because I have added 2 small rubber buffers. That is why it is tipping upwards. Under load it sits level.
It avoids making more holes in the deck
the 2 outer cleats are used instead of clutches so that i can swop lines that are not being used which means that I can use them for 4 different lines instead of just 2. They take 10mm lines OK & can be used for guys, cunningham, MOB hoist, etc




Edited by samuel - 14 November 2017 at 08:31
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Martin&Rene View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2017 at 15:24
Since I have just done a reply on this topic on the 320 forum, I can repeat it here.

From a post years ago on the Myhanse forum, I found out how to rig a third reef.  My Selden boom has 4 pulleys at the aft end.  At the front end there are 2 pulleys on the topside for the 1st and 2nd reef and two pulleys on the bottom side, of which one is used for the outhaul.  I rig the third reef line from the leech through the remaining downward facing pulley and then there is pulley fastened under the gooseneck and the reefing line goes round this and then up to the third luff reefing point.  The ball bearing pulley (Barton Size 4) with becket is secured by rope (white) to the lower kicker mast fitting and held up by shockcord (blue) close to the gooseneck.  You can just see it in the photo on this post.   At the base of the mast. I switched to a block and fiddle (Barton size 4) and run both reef 1 and 3 through this and I then added another pulley to the sail organiser and another clutch by the cockpit.



At the leech, I run the third reefing line through a Harken air block and attach this to the sail leech reefing eye with a long Dyneema soft shackle.  The end of the line is secured to the boom as normal

http://www.animatedknots.com/softshackleedwards/index.php

Thus, in light weather I can take off the 3rd reef leech line, leave the pulley in the stackpack and reduce the amount of rope dropping into the cockpit.


Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout & shallow keel, normally based in Scotland
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2017 at 17:34
Originally posted by Martin&Rene Martin&Rene wrote:

 I then added another pulley to the sail organiser and another clutch by the cockpit.


Which, for some, is the problem!!
If you used the clew out-haul instead you would not need one. Could this not attach to your dynema loop (as the rest of your suggestion) when needed.  The air block could just sit on the outhaul waiting there until needed between the end of the boom & the sail.
Then unclip the out-haul, hook it to the boom, or a length of line fitted to the boom & you have the set up as you described- for the leech- Do you not?


Edited by samuel - 14 November 2017 at 17:41
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Magicol View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Magicol Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 November 2017 at 00:31
Thank you. I am grateful for the feedback and the photographs are particularly welcome. I find it helps greatly to see how others solve the same problem. I will look to try out these solutions and find the best one for our boat.
Hanse 345 based on the Clyde
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Martin&Rene View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 November 2017 at 12:29
Samuel
I think the key words in your description are "drop the sail & let the boom end come into the cockpit ".   From this I assume your yacht is like many 311s in that it has a kicking strap and so you can lower the sail and adjust the topping lift.

Most of the larger and later Hanse yachts have rod kickers and so when we lower the sail, the boom stays up.  The thought of trying to re-thread anything at the end of a boom that is swinging around at head height in 20 kts of breeze and a seaway does not appeal to me.

I was glad to find the description of my current system, as though Rene and I are long term dinghy races, Dipper was our first yacht.  It gave us both confidence to know that we can shorten sail considerably from the cockpit if the wind suddenly gusts up, as it sometimes (often) does in Scotland.

If there is a Force 5-6 in the forecast, I just connect the leech reefing pulley onto the sail with the soft shackle and pull some slack through of the 3rd reefing line.  Incidentally, I have marks on the leech reefing lines by the boom end, so I know how much slack to pull through when shaking out reefs in harbour, as this makes hoisting the sail easier.

I agree Magicol is lucky in that he states he has a spare clutch that he can use.  Certainly on the 341/342s, there is quite a large reinforcing plate so it is fairly easy for somebody to add a new clutch.  I just changed the deck organiser from a 2 pulley on top of a 3 pulley to them both being 3 pulleys, so I do not think we even needed to makes any more holes.
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout & shallow keel, normally based in Scotland
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plattgatt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plattgatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 November 2017 at 16:02
Excuse me,
I'm too stupid. Can you draw the arrangement?
Thank you
Bernd
370#641 "aqua d`or"
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