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marelon sea valves

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Rod View Drop Down
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    Posted: 13 December 2016 at 12:02
Has anybody changed the bronze sea valves on a 415 to marelon? 4 years old. They look OK and all are worked monthly however am looking ahead to lift out in January ..
If so did you change both the bronze thru hull and the valve or just the valve ?
Is it cost effective if the boat is out of the water every 2 years ?- or just replace with bronze?
Last does anybody have a list and size of all the standard thru hulls/valves on a 415?
Hanse 415 - "Ti"
Sail Nbr "UAE 415"
Dubai Offshore Sailing Club
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Sea-U View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sea-U Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 December 2016 at 13:26
If they are bronze, don't change.
They are probably not bronze and I changed mine this year 7-8 years old. To Trudesign.
They where completely gone. Just luck that I did not have any breakage.

Nowaday it is difficult to find real bronze. Bronze could last 30 or more years.

Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Simon L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Simon L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 December 2016 at 15:17
I had my 415 surveyed for purchase in March 2016.  I can only speak for my boat, but in all of the seacocks on the boat:

1) The skin fitting is already marelon plastic.

2) The valve is a CW602W marked corrosion resistant brass ball valve, which the surveyor indicated was what you would hope to see.  Google tells me this is the marking for DZR brass.

Rod, if you have the same as mine, and they are genuine corrosion resistant brass, then there should in normal circumstances be absolutely no need to replace after 4 years. 

The only caveat I have is that the report described them as "CW602W marked corrosion resistant brass ball valve with yellow metal hose connectors"  That last bit seems like it's saying " I know the valve is ok, but I can't speak for the connector.  It would seem odd, however, to make a good valve but then spoil it with a rubbish connector.


Edited by Simon L - 13 December 2016 at 16:19
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Reliance View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reliance Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 December 2016 at 15:20
Rod,  I found this on page 19 of my Owner's manual.  Hope it helps.
 
Also, in my manual, it says that the through hulls should be replaced every 5 years.  Not sure if they are serious, or if this is just a liability statement so they don't get in trouble if something does happen. 
 
 
 
Bill
 
 
 


Edited by Reliance - 13 December 2016 at 15:22
Hanse 415 #258
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sea-U Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 December 2016 at 07:51
I think the DZR brass is what I had ... and most else of the newer boats in the world. :-(

It should be replaced after 5 years.
Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Simon L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Simon L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 December 2016 at 09:45
Forgive me if I've misunderstood, and also if you are quite knowledgeable on the subject, as I don't pretend to be beyond what I read.

That said, my understanding is that the recent (last 5 years) fuss on manufacturer use of poor quality brass seacocks was particularly not about the DZR seacocks (stamped CW602N, and/or stamped CR) - those are the good ones.  The problem has been their use of normal brass (stamped CW617N).  The CR stands for corrosion resistant, and means that they are DZR. 

The links below are written by far more knowledgeable people than I:

http://trip.ayy.fi/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Seacocks.pdf

https://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/pages/brassandbronze.aspx

For Rod, who has a 415, then unless they have changed the spec between your boat and mine, you should have DZR and have no need to worry.  That may not be the case for the Sea-U's 370.  The best way to know is to check the stamps on the seacock itself.


Edited by Simon L - 14 December 2016 at 09:46
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iemand View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iemand Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 December 2016 at 11:09
DZR is fine, however on Hanses before 2010 you will not find them. 

I'm not shure when Hanse switched from household quality to DZR and later to Marelon. 

I'm also planning to replace them on my 2007 Hanse 370. Has anybody changed the Saildrive valve? How have you connected it to the marelon valve? I can't find a thread/thread fitting in Marelon.

BR Thomas
Hanse 312 MJ 2004 - Hanse 370e MJ 2007
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brufan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 December 2016 at 13:14
I swaped all my underwater original seacocks for TruDesign when the yacht was 3 years old.
Original ones were becoming 'pink' (loosing zinc).  I didn't dare to continue sailing for long with those event if they were still stiff.
I still have two of the original seacocks above waterline (toilet sink & shower).  They both becomes 'pink' with the time.

Bruno

hanse 355 - 57

S/Y Spicy Ginger

White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system (modifications done now), Simrad-Jefa autopilot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StavrosNZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 January 2017 at 02:36
Factory fittings are brass and should be replaced as soon as possible. More recent production has moved to polymer skin fitting but still with brass ball valves and tails.............Hanse why, go glass filled nylon for everything and not the cheap Plastimo polypropylene you are using now!
 
Truedesign fittings were designed and tested for marine application, they are made from glass filled nylon and are inert to moisture absorption, electrolysis and corrosion. They have recently launched a collar that slips over the thread of the skin fitting before fitting the ball valve that means any significant side load on the assembly will be transferred to the hull and not the skin fitting thread.
 
Fitting whilst fiddly is not difficult. Don't waste your time disassembling everything inside, simply remove the hose clips and hoses inside then move outside (on hard stand of course) and insert tapered timber plugs into the skin fittings. Cut the timber plugs flush with the skin fitting head and select a hole saw that is approx. the diameter of the outside of the threads of the skin fitting. Drill the head off the skin fitting as you would the head off a pop rivet. Now move back inside, wiggle the assembly to break the sealant and remove the whole assembly as one piece.
 
Fit new skin fittings with 3M 5200 in the hull and then use black SIKA 291 to assemble the threads of the ball valve and tails. wait 24 hours before fitting your pipes.
 
Result is huge improvement on factory shambles and they work beautifully, you can sleep well not worrying about electrolysis and fatigue.
 
 
Stephen
2010 H400, Auckland, New Zealand
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Mike2145 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike2145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 January 2017 at 15:00
Originally posted by iemand iemand wrote:

DZR is fine, however on Hanses before 2010 you will not find them. 

I'm not shure when Hanse switched from household quality to DZR and later to Marelon. 

I'm also planning to replace them on my 2007 Hanse 370. Has anybody changed the Saildrive valve? How have you connected it to the marelon valve? I can't find a thread/thread fitting in Marelon.

BR Thomas

Hi, I replaced the saildrive valve on the SD20.  I assuem the 415 will be similar.  I did consider a Marelon type valve and may update t a later date.  The main issue I found was that the saildrive valve did not actually turn off at all even though it appeared to do so.  

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