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Mast Stepping

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Andythefiddler View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andythefiddler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Mast Stepping
    Posted: 28 November 2018 at 11:39
I need to unstep the mast on my hanse 350 this winter.

Can anyone offer any advice on electrical disconnections, management of ropes and boom etc.

In simple terms I've never done this before and wold appreciate any advice.

Andy
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350Bob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 350Bob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 November 2018 at 22:35
Hi Andy,

I am afraid that we have not unstopped our mast yet, but I can tell you that we electrical disconnects for all our cabling above the removable ceiling panels just under the mast foot. The cables could then be fed easily up through the swan neck.

Having taken the mast down on our previous smaller boat, we always used to run mousing lines through for all the halyards and take the opportunity of washing them and givin them a thorough inspection.

Good luck

Bob
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 November 2018 at 08:04
To avoid the furler getting kinked I always push a piece of timber up the mast, making sure it does not trap any wires, then support the furler from this. Because it is awkward to remove the aerial I fix a batten to that as well to try to avoid it being damaged by people walking in to it.
I pull halyards to one end & place in black bags to reduce UV. If mast is to remain up I always do this but tie some old line to the halyards & pull the ends to the top of the mast so that part is inside the mast.

I place the ends of the wires in polythene well taped up to try to prevent corrosion. When disconnecting inside I have a drawing in my log of the colours of the wiring so I know that they always goes back in the same way.
To reduce yard costs I slacken all the rigging & take the bend out of the split pins so the yard saves time & my money removing. I also remove the boom & tie it on the deck. That normally saves me about half an hours labour for 3 men & a crane which is significant when paying the yard at an hourly rate.

If you want to get the same setting on your rigging & do not have a rigging gauge then before easing off wind some tape around the threads at the position so you know where to tighten up to next time

I also grease the ends of the threads inside the bottlescrew so that as it slackens off the grease goes into the bottlescrew & makes release easier.

Before re setting the mast i always clean & regrease the threads & fit new split pins. I ask the yard not to tension the rig as I do this myself with a rig gauge. I use spanners on the bottlescrews rather than grips & bars as it does less damage to them.

I remove the lazy jack lines for the winter & take them & all sails home every year.
I remove the wind unit
It is a good time to check things such as pullies inside the mast sheaves. This year i had to drop the mast because the main halyard sheave had collapsed







Edited by samuel - 29 November 2018 at 08:29
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 November 2018 at 08:35
Some people wind tape around the rigging screws to prevent the ends of the split pins snagging on anything. When it comes time to drop the mast it is tedious work to remove this tape so my solution has been to cut some plastic waste pipe along its length & fit over the shrouds. Then tape the two ends of the pipe to keep them together.
Of course if the mast is down there is no need to split that pipe but just cut it to length & threadle it up the wire & then hold it in place with a temporary piece of tape until the rigging screws have been tensioned.
If one wants to adjust tension of the rig during the year it is easy just to lift the tube & do the adjustment




Edited by samuel - 29 November 2018 at 08:42
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Martin&Rene View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 November 2018 at 16:37
Another way of aiming to repeat the rigging sessions is to use a internal vernier gauge and measure the distance between the 2 ends of the rigging screws before you untighten them.  Many chandlers will have a pair that you can borrow for a short while.  

Try and take as many photos as you can before you start, especially of the wiring and the deck organisers, as it is amazing how things look different in the spring. 

Consider switching bulbs to LEDs, especially the anchor light if you intend to anchor a lot.
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout & shallow keel, normally based in Scotland
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