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isotherm fridge failure

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 461 / 470
Forum Description: 461 / 470 Hints and Tips
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=4779
Printed Date: 28 March 2024 at 17:59
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: isotherm fridge failure
Posted By: tobo
Subject: isotherm fridge failure
Date Posted: 30 January 2011 at 11:04
We have the standard isotherm fridge (Mod no. 3135FA2B0000, R134A) with top and front door and it decided to stop cooling (H470,2007) . Any idea what to check and how to access it (compressor unit)? Could it be the thermostat you can exchange from the inside?

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Thomi



Replies:
Posted By: panos
Date Posted: 30 January 2011 at 12:28
Hi,
Most probable causes are the electric supply (broken fuse) and the thermostat. Loss of cooling liquid (freon) can also be a problem but not so often. You can check the thermostat by short circuiting the contacts in back. U can easily replace it (we did !).


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Panos

Hanse 630e - selling her -


Posted By: Peter Russell
Date Posted: 30 January 2011 at 14:22
On my 370 we founf that the power connector sometimes comes off the control board.  This is situated (on the 370) behind a panel in the cupboard to the left of the cooker.  This is near the lower doof on the fridge.  I'm sure yours will be similar.  If there is no power to the fridge - does the light come on?? - then if the fuse looks OK this may be the issue.  It is a simple push fit and slamming on waves seems to loosen it Cry


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Peter Russell

Hanse 370 hull 499 "Outnumbered"



http://outnumbered.the-russells.net" rel="nofollow - http://outnumbered.the-russells.net


Posted By: tobo
Date Posted: 01 February 2011 at 08:59
According to Hanse After Sales Service you have to cut open an inspection door to get access to the electric supply and the compressor.  With the 470 it is most probably below the cooker. In half an hour I will know more when I start the chainsaw massacre. (Once again I don't understand why Hanse's boatbuilders don't think of such basic things.)

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Thomi


Posted By: graemefromdownu
Date Posted: 01 February 2011 at 11:09
Bit late now, the chain saw may have done its job, but on the 461 the compressor is in the bilge adjacent to the cooker area.

Secondly a tool I can heartily recommend for this sort of work, link below.  I use this for any fine joinery job where a thin controlled cut is needed, it is absolutely brilliant.  The good thing about it is you can start at any point and go in to any depth, cut out the shape you want and no extra saw kerf around the sides.  FINE also do one, but out of my budget.  There is also a similar unit made by CEL (see Amazon) but I don't know how good it is.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Multifunctional-Rounder-Multi-Accessories/dp/B003H4QOLA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1296558251&sr=8-3

Good luck, Graeme


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461: Dreamtime Wanderer, on her way to Australia.


Posted By: tobo
Date Posted: 01 February 2011 at 11:26
Thanks Graeme, the job is done, the mistake is found. The cable connector which lay under the compressor in the bilge (!) was corroded (it should have been hung up) The ugly part part was the sawing and now we will have to put a mahagony playwood cover over it. Thanks to the fast response of Hanse After Sales we knew on which side to drill. The electrician doing the job couldn't believe his eyes that Hanse forgot to make this inspection door. P.S. the models 2008/09 have this hatch now. A weak consolation!

 


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Thomi


Posted By: tmagnussen
Date Posted: 21 June 2014 at 19:44
Having the same issue on my 2008 Hanse 370 (Isotherm mod 3135FA2B0000 R134a).
Its running but the fridge never gets "cold".

Unsure where to start troubleshooting my problem so any input would be nice :)






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Thomas Magnussen

Hanse 370


Posted By: High Time
Date Posted: 21 June 2014 at 21:01
If you can hear the compressor running then it is probably a problem with the refrigerant (gas). This can leak over time to the point where the fridge will not get cold anymore.

The system can be re-pressurised but it is best done by a qualified refrigeration engineer. It is a standard procedure but will require good access to the gas connections on the compressor.


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Roger

High Time (415 #038)


Posted By: tmagnussen
Date Posted: 21 June 2014 at 21:14
Anyone here have some instructions on how to get the box out of the boat without totaly destroying the kitchen furniture. Looking at it today im a bit scared of firing up the chainsaw on it :)

Or is it possible to take out the isotherm compressor through that small inspection hole.

Looks to be this one btw.

http://isotherm-parts.com/2301-classic-compact-p-1741.html








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Thomas Magnussen

Hanse 370


Posted By: kweetje
Date Posted: 22 June 2014 at 06:59
Owwh, this seems an expensive piece of hardware !
Do you need to change the compressor ?

We had a strange thing with our fridge: at a certain moment we found a sort of pale-blue liquid on the bottom of the fridge. We experienced this liquid several times and don't know where it is coming from. A friend confirmed me it can not be the cooling liquid, since this is a gas...
Up till now the fridge still functions....


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First 4000 miles, no substantial problems


Posted By: Idelfix
Date Posted: 22 June 2014 at 20:53

I pick it out and then put a new watercoold one outside under the floor







-------------
"Keep sailing in free wind"

http://suhrfa.blogspot.se




Posted By: Silver lining
Date Posted: 17 May 2017 at 15:54
I realise this is an old thread, but, any help advice would be greatly appreciated. On my 400e 2007 #199 I find the fridge is not that cold,  I have been running this off the House battery, and not shore power, I do not know if this makes a difference ? - The ice box feels cold but not freezing, and I can here the compressor coming in.  I have removed the inspection panel to reveal a very tight space at the compressor to re-gas - I do not know how Hanse expect anyone to carry out maintenance in such a small space  !!
Has any 400 / 370 owners re-charged / re-gassed the compressor ? or how to access the ports ?
I believe it to be a Danfoss DB 35 compressor Unit , and the standard Isotherm Build in Fridge with top and front loader
This was the standard for Hanse 370 /400 models.
 
Isotherm model 3135FA2B00000  12/24V 
I think the gas used is R134a
 
Thanks,


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'Silver Lining' 400e #199


Posted By: Peter-Blake
Date Posted: 18 May 2017 at 10:07
@ Silver lining:

before you destroy anything: On my 370 (same fridge) it makes a huge diffrence between shore power and 12V vom battery only....
With shorepower i get ice in the fridge, with batterypower only, it gets cold after sometime, but no ice. Once the temp is low (by shore) enough, than the battery power is enough to hold the temp.

I do not know why, but it takes really long to get the fridge cool only by 12V supply. But it takes a lot shorter time if the shore power is connected.

Maybe the diffrence is, that with shorepower it is 13,6V instead of 12V.
I cannot explain it because i am not e eletrictian


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Blake 370


Posted By: Silver lining
Date Posted: 18 May 2017 at 21:50
Thanks Peter , that makes sense .
I have never tried the fridge on shore power .
Just purchased the boat before Christmas .
If we are heading away for a cruise I might bring some
ice packs from home to give the fridge a head start
Don't want warm beers !
What setting approx do you keep your thermostat?
And Thankyou for your reply

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'Silver Lining' 400e #199


Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 01 June 2017 at 12:36
Maybe you should check the voltage at the compressor when it is running,
In my Hanse 400, I experience a voltage drop of 0,9 V from the battery to the compressor.
Thereby the compressor only recieves 11,9 V.
I have lived with a lukewarm refrigerator for more than 10 years, but now I will have the R134a coolant renewed, and run larger cables from the battery to the compressor. The old cables will be releasing the current  (with no voltage drop?) via a relay. 
For access to the compressor I had to make a small inspection hatch, because only a dwarf (sorry PORC) with snake-like arms could reach the compressor through the tiny access opening.
Sailors salute
Captain Cook



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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)


Posted By: Silver lining
Date Posted: 02 June 2017 at 19:42
Thanks for that . The inspection hatch is so small, I am going to have cut the hole much wider . Have you checked if your compressor has the scrader valve to re-gas ? - also have you cut a section through under your cooker as well to gain better access ?

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'Silver Lining' 400e #199


Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 02 June 2017 at 23:34
You have to take away the shelf under the cooker, it is glued to the walls and furthermore fastened with 4 screws. I used a special saw to separate it just where it is glued, so it can be replaced and still look good. You can see the refill-valve to the right of the compressor.
I have used 25mm/sq cable from the battery to avoid voltage drop, and as you can see, the old cables are used to trigger the relay.
I finished the work today, so I have no data whether the fridge works better or not, but I can verify that there is no longer a voltage drop at the compressor.
Kjeld







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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)


Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 02 June 2017 at 23:45
Yeah- almost forgot.............. I put a LED through the wood so I could check the fault-codes.
It is connected to the little "+" and "D".
There are multiple pages on the net with explanation of error- finding the Danfoss DB35.
I got no flashes, so the system may be in order.
Kjeld


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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)


Posted By: Silver lining
Date Posted: 03 June 2017 at 08:03
Looks to be an excellent job . I will take a look next time I am on the boat regarding the access at cooker
Thanks for your updates


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'Silver Lining' 400e #199


Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 04 June 2017 at 11:13
I did contact a technician for a price for changing the coolant, but no reply for now.
Maybe the problem is solved though. Yesterday I measured -10 degrees C in the frost-box after 2 hours. The thermostat was set at a medium position. Also the compressor is not running all the time as before.
The 12V for the cooling unit is taken from a battery bank of three AGM batteries(90 Ah), which I installed some years ago in front of the kitchen-zink. From here there are cables under the floor to the other batteries.
A picture of the valve for the R134a:



If I later should need access to the compressor, it's fairly simple




-------------
Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)


Posted By: Silver lining
Date Posted: 04 June 2017 at 13:16
I have a chap who can gas the compressor with ease , I just can't get access to the bloody thing !
Everything seems to be working fine with my control unit and compressor , I think a recharge of the R134a would help a lot , you would think hanse would have Fitted and wired the unit to the battery bank with appropriate cabling ? As not to drop voltage ?


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'Silver Lining' 400e #199


Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 06 June 2017 at 12:15
This weekend I had another problem. 
On Friday the fridge was quite full. It was running all night. Seems it never stopped and I was worried. In the morning everything was very cold. Stuff in the freezer was very frozen.
Is there a regulator somewhere? Can not find any.

I got the feeling that when the freezer was full, it ran much longer and got too cold.


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Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway


Posted By: Peter-Blake
Date Posted: 06 June 2017 at 13:02
Yes there is a regulator, you find it if you look from the topside into it. As far as i remember it is under the freezer. You may need a mirror to find it. or use your mobilephonecamera.


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Blake 370


Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 06 June 2017 at 13:48
OK, Thanks. 
It might be that it was covered by something and got false temperature.


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Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway


Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 07 June 2017 at 13:20
In my 400 - the regulator is placed INSIDE the freezer compartment


-------------
Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)


Posted By: Inacanoe
Date Posted: 07 August 2022 at 12:13
We have the same blue liquid pooling in our Hanse 415 isotherm fridge.  Any idea what this is and how it affects cooling performance?


Posted By: Inacanoe
Date Posted: 07 August 2022 at 12:16
We have the same type of blue fluid pooling in our Hanse 415 isotherm fridge.  Any thoughts on what this is and how it affects cooling performance?  


Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 07 August 2022 at 21:54

 

Search "Isotherm ASU", I suppose that the blue fluid is the cooling agent from inside the container.

ASU may be explained here on myhanse in "advanced search", else google it. As I remember AutomaticStartUp is a system where the compressor is working overtime when there are plenty of amperes, (then freezing the container), and  when the voltage is low, the compressor rests while the frozen container delivers the needed cooling.

 



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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)


Posted By: Jens
Date Posted: 17 August 2022 at 12:17
Hi 

Has anybody tried to replace the compressor including the evaporator in a 370 or 400?

My compressor can no longer cool the fridge down even though its running instant. I had a coolant service guy to look at it and top up the coolant, but it didn’t help. Voltage is also fine. The service guy suggestion is to replace both compressor and evaporator.

I can see in this thread that Idelfix seems to have been able to take out the compressor through the small locker next to the oven. Can anybody confirm that this is possible?

If the compressor can go out through the locker, I believe that replacing both parts should not be that complicated. Existing pipes has to be cut since they are soldered so I must find out what to do with the coolant.



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Jens
Hanse 370, #423, 2008
Three cabin


Posted By: Wild
Date Posted: 17 August 2022 at 13:36
hello 
A few years ago we replaced the evaporator there was a leak in the tube and oil was leaking 
There’s a bolt ( look manual not easy to reach) who keeps the compressor in place. Once this bolt loose you can slide the compressor out the metal sleeve in to the locker under the stove .the tubes are long enough to do this but not complete outside the locker.
We have to cut the tubes and make the soldering in to the small locker under the stove.
Two things to take care of 
The gastube in the locker under the stove and not to get small particles of copper in to the tubes by cutting they will destroy the compressor 


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Wild and Wet
Belgium
545e#268


Posted By: Goldfish
Date Posted: 26 September 2023 at 14:15
Hi all,

I'm having the issues with my refrigerator now as well (doesn't get cold any more, although the compressor is working overtime, consuming steady 30-35watts at all times).
Since it's now 15 years old I'm aiming to replace this but have no idea how to get the compressor out of that tiny hole. There is a screw at the bottom below the control unit that makes this a little bit looser, however, it doesn't help me getting this thing out. Is there a screw on the other side as well?

The boat, by the way, is a hanse 370 built 2008, #468, located in Germany/Baltic Sea.

Very much looking for advise.

Thanks, Jonas




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Hanse 370, #468, 2008, three cabins, Germany


Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 26 September 2023 at 15:54
At the top of this page press "Search->advanced search->All Forums->Any Date......and a keyword like "Compressor/Danfoss/Fridge/..................and so on.
There are dozens of different threads, and hundreds of posts on these subjects.

In the first three pages of the thread here (we are at page 4) you can find the first hint to get access to the compressor, and an advice about Danfoss DB35 fault codes.
If you google "Danfoss DB35 fault codes" you will get this:
https://penguinfrigo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/3-Support-BD35-BD50-Fault-Diagnosis.pdf" rel="nofollow - https://penguinfrigo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/3-Support-BD35-BD50-Fault-Diagnosis.pdf


-------------
Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)


Posted By: Goldfish
Date Posted: 26 September 2023 at 19:42
Hi Captain Cook,
I‘ve searched this forum and the web a lot and I‘m sorry if you deem my question answered elsewhere. I couldn‘t find informationon how to actually get this out.

I am not interested in any error codes or so, I just want to know where to screw or pull or rip to get the damn thing our of my kitchen, and not just „the first hint“, but first hand experience on how to get thus out. I‘ve also posted a photo on how far I got in terms of access to my compressor. As I wrote, this thing is now 15yrs old and my plan is to replace this one and get a new more energy efficient one and not to check error codes or so…
But thanks for your hints and I apologize if I spam the thread in your opinion. Just looking for friendly advice.

Best regards, Goldfish!


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Hanse 370, #468, 2008, three cabins, Germany


Posted By: Wild
Date Posted: 26 September 2023 at 21:01
Hello Goldfish 
Captain Cook is a expert in teaching members in the search function.
On the Danfoss compressor there’s one locking screw directly under the electric unit
If you unscrew this locking screw you can slide the whole compressor out


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Wild and Wet
Belgium
545e#268


Posted By: Wild
Date Posted: 26 September 2023 at 21:15
The screw is right under the green sticker on your picture 

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Wild and Wet
Belgium
545e#268


Posted By: Goldfish
Date Posted: 26 September 2023 at 21:30
Thanks a lot, wild. I have already removed that screw but the compressor still seemed locked in place. But thanks for the note, I‘ll pull harder then and try to slide it out. It felt as if there was another screw on the side or back.

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Hanse 370, #468, 2008, three cabins, Germany


Posted By: Jens
Date Posted: 27 September 2023 at 07:05

Hi Goldfish

I have just replaced my compressor, and it is correct that it just can be pulled out after removing the screw. Mine was a little bit stocked to, but it came out. With the new compressor there was included a different type of mounting bracket, but I just moved the old part on the compressor to the new compressor, so I didn’t have to replace the part inside I locker.

At first sight it seems impossible the replace the compressor, but it is not that hard 😊.

Best regards

Jens



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Jens
Hanse 370, #423, 2008
Three cabin


Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 27 September 2023 at 18:28
Hi Jens
How is the new compressor connected to the condenser?




-------------
Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: Jens
Date Posted: 28 September 2023 at 08:26

Hi

The condenser is a part of the compressor unit. The evaporator in the fridge compartment is originally connected with a soldered pipe. I bought a completely new compressor with evaporator and mechanical thermostat. This had prefilled cooling liquid and you assemble it yourself.

To dismount I squeezed the pipes very hard to avoid cooling liquid to run out and then cut the pipes close to the compressor (a tiny and a bigger pipe). Then I dismounted the evaporator and dragged the pipes up that way. But they felt quite stocked, and I could not pull them out. I have earlier made an opening behind the couch and through this I could have access to the pipe entry hole. It showed out that it was a cable tie around the pipe isolation there blocked the pipes.

To mount the new pipes with bigger pipe fittings I had to extend the hole a bit.

It was very useful with the access behind the couch also when mounting the new pipes. Through this I could also make sure that the flexible ventilation pipe was in correct place during mount. In advance you will get a extra locker for life jackets etc 😊.

Below the original evaporator there is a freezing element attached with four blind fasteners. This was not on the new evaporator I got, but it is easy to move it to the new evaporator.  

After the installation I have experimented with how and where in the fridge/freezer the thermostat temperature should be measured. I’ll get back with my findings later. In the original installation the thermostat measures in a hole int the freezing element and my conclusion is that it is a good location.

Jens






-------------
Jens
Hanse 370, #423, 2008
Three cabin


Posted By: Wild
Date Posted: 28 September 2023 at 08:40
A few years ago we changed the evaporator and soldered the new pipes on the original from the compressor in our case The pipes ware long enough to do this in the locker under the cooker.
Not a easy job but to do if you are careful.Big smileClap
New gas on it ,vacuümpomp and finish 
The temp sensor is in the back of the freezer and works fine.


-------------
Wild and Wet
Belgium
545e#268



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