Print Page | Close Window

New 2:1 halyard, my best upgrade so far....

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 430
Forum Description: 430 Hints and Tips
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9870
Printed Date: 28 March 2024 at 11:53
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: New 2:1 halyard, my best upgrade so far....
Posted By: Lykke
Subject: New 2:1 halyard, my best upgrade so far....
Date Posted: 29 September 2016 at 10:13
Hi,
 
I found hoisting of the main sail far too heavy and time consuming with the original halyard.
(As I have no electric winches).
 
Got a recommendation to change to a 2:1 system that is commly used on similar sized regatta boats.
(There it is mostly used to get enough tension in the sail and to avoid slippage in the cleat. But I have not had problem with that.)
 
But I must say I am extreemly satisfied with the result. Even with twice as long rope to hoist, it goes much faster. One adult pulling the rope at the mast, and one child at the winch taking in the slack, then we only need to use the winch-handle to tighten the last few centimeters of the rope. Can higly recommend this for oher too.
 
 
As the rope get lower loads, we reduced the size from 12 to 10 mm. (But need 65 meter long rope....)
 
 


-------------
Lykke, Hanse 430e, #8 from 2007



Replies:
Posted By: nibheis
Date Posted: 29 September 2016 at 11:22
Good stuff !

I did the same (using a Karver KBO10 open block). I confirm: one adult at the mast, one kid in the cockpit for the slack !

Who needs electrical winches ?? :-)

I was so happy, that I did the same 2:1 system for the Code 0 halyard using a Karver KB10c ("c" is for high static loads). The furling of the Code 0 is much easier with a strong tension.
For the code 0 halyard, there is a stainless steel chainplate is the mast, right over the forestay (same chainplate), with 2 10mm ø
threaded holes. I just screwed 2 x 10mm ø stainless steel eyebolts. The 2 eye bolts are tied together (to avoid unexpected unscrewing) and are used to fix the end of the code 0 halyard and to hold in place a friction ring guiding the halyard.



I like those Karver blocks: they are quite strong for their very light weight. And in the event a block breaks, the halyard will not break free and stay up in the mast.

uploads/3803/KB10C.PDF" rel="nofollow - KB10C.PDF

uploads/3803/KBO10.pdf" rel="nofollow - KBO10.pdf


Posted By: Martin&Rene
Date Posted: 16 October 2016 at 21:37
I can well understand why you have done such a modification.  Any physiotherapist seeing us standing in the cockpit, pulling on the main halyard sideways from the winch and trying to look up at the mainsail to check the battens do not catch wonder go wild.

Being on a smaller yacht, but also not being very strong, I have come up with a different technique.  I put one turn on the winch and then sit on the cockpit side seat, facing forward, with my feet against the back of the cabin.  I can then pull on the halyard using just my 2 arms and at the same time easily keeping a check that the battens do not foul on the lazyjacks.  As the mainsail gets nearer the top of the mast, I change to something like a rowing action, leaning forward, grasping the halyard in both hands and then sitting back pulling on the rope.  Thus I can use lots of muscles, but at the same time I am not twisting any part of my body.  I normally then only need the winch for the last half metre.


-------------
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland


Posted By: gizmo
Date Posted: 15 January 2017 at 10:44
Hi
 
What have you done at the mast head to fix the halyard?
 
Do you have the part number for the top ball slide clamp?
 
It looks also like you have had the sail top modified to shorten the luff length?
 
Thanks Ken


-------------
Ken
430e # 161
UK


Posted By: Lykke
Date Posted: 16 January 2017 at 09:14
Hi,
 
As far as I know, the sail was delivered like this originally. But I cannot be sure of that.
 
I had to drill a hole at top and insert a similar bolt that holds the back stay. The rope was delivered with a small spliced eye at the end, just big enough to let the bolt through.
 
Picture taken before drilling:


-------------
Lykke, Hanse 430e, #8 from 2007


Posted By: gizmo
Date Posted: 17 January 2017 at 20:54
Thanks Lykke, makes sense.
 
Ken


-------------
Ken
430e # 161
UK



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2023 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net