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Sail drive gator replacement

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Dion View Drop Down
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    Posted: 28 November 2017 at 00:40
When I was getting the boat out of the water last week I managed to get one of the hoist strips under the saildriveThis has forced the saildrive up as a significant amount of the weight of the boat was taken up by the SD .
I have the Yanmar Sd20 on my boat .
Has any owner of a 320 replaced the gators .
I have read what I can find on how to do the job However I am looking on owners to comment on the space available as it seems like it is going to be ackward .
On inspection I found the saildrive in good condition and the strop did not touch the prop or the shaft so I believe any damage to be contained in the engine mounts and gators . The retaining ring for the secondary gator is very rusty and seems like a good time to do the job My 320 is a 2007 So at 10 years old I would sleep better if this is done

Dion
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StavrosNZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 November 2017 at 02:52
I would also check the engine mounts, they are designed to take load in a sideways and downward direction, not upward. They are designed to take the working weight of the engine,  you would have stretched the rubber in the mounts significantly by taking huge weight through the mounts in a direction they were never designed to take.


Stephen
2010 H400, Auckland, New Zealand
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cptgood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cptgood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 February 2018 at 08:35
I am about to have the job, gator replacement, done. I see that ,in order to disconnect the engine  from the SD, one should move the engine forward. This operation is complicated by the fact taht  the stairs mount has a side wooden bar that seems to be glued to the rest of the frame.I only see some lateral screws that seem t o hold the frame in place.
Anybody knows how to clear all the space in front of the engine, under the stairs in the picture below,  so that the engine itself could be brought forward or, in case of need,  even removed? 
Thanks for your help.

Hanse320 - Hull#100/08
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 February 2018 at 09:02
I have just finished replacing the rubber for the second time on my 31. however, I have a Volvo so it is slightly different but the principle is similar. To move the engine forward i hooked a load strap to the mast strut & to the engine mounts. I then tightened it & just pulled the engine forward 30mm.
I doubt that the Yanmar has to go much more. By moving as little as possible some of the wiring etc can be left in place. To push the engine back I used a small nail bar & a block of wood hooked to the GRP moulding
When re- installing, because I was on my own ( did not have the " MY Hanse flag" up!!!) I fixed the saildrive to the aft mounting & it wanted to drop down at the front so I then went outside the boat & put the strap around the keel & the saildrive. I then tightened it & this rotated the saildrive back into vertical mode so that the splines on the shaft lined up with the engine.


Edited by samuel - 11 February 2018 at 09:07
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Dion View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 February 2018 at 09:07
Good morning cptgood .

I have just changed over the gator on my H320 . I had to remove the crossbar . This was only fixed with one long screw either side and glued . Once I removed the screws I twisted the timber and that peeled of the glue .

Next I disconnect the gear cable , the control loom and finally removed the T-Bar above the engine that housed the raw water filter and expansion bottle . Also I had to disconnect from the engine the hoses for the water heater . 

Remove the bolts from the engine mounts .Now you can remove the bolts from the bell housing that connect the saildrive to the engine . The engine can now slide forward . Once the engine mounts get to the front of the bearers will give you enough space to remove the saildrive.

The saildrive is bolted to the hull . You will need to remove the prop and propshaft  from the saildrive as well.

Now the saildrive can be pulled up and push backwards as to clear the hole . It is tight but it does work .

I have read alot prior to doing the job . In reality I have founded it very easy . It took me 2 hours to remove the saildrive and less than and hour to remove the gators and replace . It took 3 hours to put it all back together including cleaning the engine compartment and tidying up a few minor issues like a loud extract fan .

I bought and used the gasket material the recommend as thread lock . and used a 3/8" socket set with 2 long extension bars . This will make you life easier when you try to unbolt the two screws that are close to the engine . However a single bar will work it would just take longer .


On examination I found both the inner and out gator to be in as goo condition . What I have found is that the vetus 140 intake filter tails had become very brittle and one of the snapped off when I was disconnecting the hose . Also the water trap for the exhaust had some damage to the plastic elbow. All had been replaced . Finale one of the retaining rings of the inner gator was corroded and snapped off immediately .


So I an gald I had it done as some items required immediate attention .

One final point . It seems that when the cut the hole for the sail dive at the factory the used some thicken epoxy to seal the core . This made the hole very tight to pull the drive up through . Before re installing I sand it back about 1mm and that made it easier to put back 

Good luck 


Dion
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cptgood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cptgood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 February 2018 at 19:22
Thanks a lot . I'll have the yanmar guys to do the actual job on the engine and sd. I wanted to make sure that the bar can be removed without damaging the wooded frame under the stairs. I'll look for the 2 long screw that hold the bar in place. Are they inserted from the head cabin and right aft cabin? 
Hanse320 - Hull#100/08
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Dion View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 March 2018 at 10:02
Good morning cptgood . I was hoping to get some pictures and show you , however with the weather we are having I did not go to the boat . The two long screws are inserted from the engine compartment . If you look at the back of teh timber you can see the screw heads one either side . I found the screw heads to be very soft so take it easy and slow . I damaged one and it was hard work trying to drill it out .

Dion
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cptgood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 March 2018 at 17:28
Thanks. I found  the screws and the bar was easily removed.
Next week I'll have the job done by the Yanmar guys..I'll let you know how they do it and about any problems that could arise (hopefully none).
By the way,  the cost for the entire operation is around 1800 euros (replacement of hull rubber protection and both SD internal and external seals, sail drive oil and gaskets).

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 March 2018 at 18:04
Cost me 225-00 for my Volvo & a bit of faffing about. But i am secure in the knowledge that I know how to do it totally on my own, apart from some help to lift the saildrive up from the ground on to the boat.
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 March 2018 at 18:35
Materials alone cost me 760 I do like to know how things work onboard and that was why I was keen to do it myshelf .

I had the prop shaft seal changed last year as I was getting water in the oil Considering it was over 10 years old it was not unreasonable I had an engineering firm from Southampton do it for me straight after buying the boat and before launching

Good luck with your works

Let us know how they got on .Reading about it it seemed like a mountain of a task The reality was far from Very straight forward job

Dion
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