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Saildrive Gaiter

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Ratbasher View Drop Down
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    Posted: 16 March 2018 at 17:56
Anyone had any recent experience with saildrive gaiters for Yanmar legs?  Mine is now 10 years old and although the book says replace at 10 the surveyor's opinion last year was to leave it alone if working ok.  However, this was the same chap who said the hull valves were fine before being proved wrong on launching...

As the Yanmar, unlike as I understand the Volvo, has a double seal and change is not generally specified by insurers, Web research seems to support the 'leave' option but I wondered what the recent practice of other Hanse owners actually was and why.  Also grateful for indication of cost from anyone who's had this done.

Thanks!
Rat

Hanse 400, south coast UK
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Martin&Rene View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2018 at 16:43
Mine is from 2003 and I keep getting the normal comment that when they take them out they can not see a difference between the old one and the new one.  My manual actually says replace after 2 year!!?

My insurance agent has never heard of an example of a yacht sinking because of a Yanmar saildrive seal failing, but that does not really prove anything, as either it means that they last for ever, or people do replace them.

Costs quoted are typical around £1000 mark.  

I assume you check the water sensor regularly, check for water in the sensor hole and I always record that in the log.
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout & shallow keel, normally based in Scotland
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Mark_J1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Mark_J1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2018 at 18:38
Hi Rat,

a change of rear engine mount and the inner diaphram seals was forced on me recently when the boat was lifted with a strop under the sail drive.  It was only lifted a metre and I spotted it very quickly, but I couldn't risk the boat being relaunched without inspecting further.

In reality, and after seeking advice there was really no way to check it without removal.  Naturally, if its got to be removed it would be crazy not to replace it.  Hence, one day last week the engine had to be lifted away and the sail drive dismantled.   

In the picture you can see the state of it immediately post-dismantling.  Once split from the drive and cleaned you could see only very small differences from the new one that was replacing it.  The one in the picture is 13 years old.  So at approx twice the supposed 6-7 year lifex point.  I would probably have replaced it in the next year or 2 for safety sake anyway, but it was reassuring to find it in good health even after the additional pressure from the lift error.  If it is a coded boat, then clearly it has to get changed.  My new one won't be replaced again until a similar 10-12 year point judging by what I found.  BTW a small plastic bag was found in the waterways so the job wasn't a complete waste of time and money :-)


Mark

  
Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31
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Ratbasher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ratbasher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2018 at 22:34
I was aware of the water sensor but not that you could physically check the sensor hole. That’s clearly good practice for which many thanks. The cost is lower than I would have thought as well.
Rat

Hanse 400, south coast UK
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Ratbasher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ratbasher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2018 at 22:39
That’s really useful info, thanks Mark; I reckon pulling the unit at the end of next season would be valuable. As the SD and prop anodes also corrode at a very rapid rate it would be good to take a closer look inside ’just in case’. Just fitted a hull anode to address that issue after two marine electricians drew a blank as to cause. A separate but related issue.
Rat

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Mark_J1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Mark_J1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2018 at 22:48
Rat

When you plan the work take a very close look at the size of the slot cut in the hull versus the width of the Saildrive ‘bulge’. On my boat you can’t withdraw the Saildrive up through the slot as Hanse cut it about 5mm too narrow. Hence the need to split the Saildrive (or get out a saw :-) )

Mark
Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31
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