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SD 50 service

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Zorro View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zorro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 July 2016 at 15:17
Hi Rocky,
 
4000 +E seems like a reasonable cost if both material and serviceman was included. I would have chosen this option if the cost was same in Sweden. Over here they charge around 7' Euro.
 
I changed cone for the second time last year and had numerous discussions with Yanmar Sweden. In the end they made an instruction how to handle the SD40/SD50 during mortoring/sailing in order to save the cone from damage.
 
The funny thing is that Yanmar has increased the cluch cone from around 600 Euro to 800 in Sweden.... They are really taking advantage of the siution and milking the poor sailors....
 
I have a brand new clucth cone for sail if anyone is interested SD40/SD50. I bought it for 600 Euro in US but Yanmar refused to use this part. To get the warranty you should buy it in Sweden...
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astarte View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote astarte Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 July 2016 at 17:09
Anyone that can help?

I have just removed the drive cone assembly following the links given earlier in this thread. It was easy and quick. However I am not able to loosening the end nut to disassemble the cone unit. Any advice from people who have done this before?

Regards
Kristoffer
Kristoffer
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alettaenmarcel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alettaenmarcel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 July 2016 at 17:38
The end nut is for one time use only.
I removerd it with a dremel flex.
By mounting i used a new nut.
Gr Marcel
Kids Dingys 72-79 ,Several Windsurfboards 79-86 OK dingy competitions 86-92 , Trotter Pandora Race 92-98, Friendship 28 Sport 98-05, Hanse 370 06-......
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astarte View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote astarte Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 July 2016 at 17:49
Hi Marcel,
Do I understand you correctly that you split the nut?

Regards Kristoffer.
Kristoffer
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MasterKeil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MasterKeil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 July 2016 at 09:07
Hi Zorro,
could you post the instructions for motorsailing?
And: Did you use the new long SD oil dripstick or the short version? The problem is, that the oil-level and therefore the oilpressure is too high when using the short stick.
Hanse 370#640 "Nemesis"
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MasterKeil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MasterKeil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 July 2016 at 15:47
Hi Zorro,
could you post the instructions for motorsailing?
And: Did you use the new long SD oil dripstick or the short version? The problem is, that the oil-level and therefore the oilpressure is too high when using the short stick.
Hanse 370#640 "Nemesis"
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astarte View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote astarte Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 July 2016 at 16:52
Hi,
Have just finished repairing my drive cone. Did it together with a friend with mechanical background. Actually quite easy. Most difficult was to loosen the end nut. Lapping was straight forward. Fantastic with all the info in this forum. Great thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread.

Regards Kristoffer.
Kristoffer
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alettaenmarcel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alettaenmarcel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 July 2016 at 17:45
Yes , I did split the nut and used a new one wenn reasembling .
Gr Marcel
Kids Dingys 72-79 ,Several Windsurfboards 79-86 OK dingy competitions 86-92 , Trotter Pandora Race 92-98, Friendship 28 Sport 98-05, Hanse 370 06-......
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Heikki View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heikki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2016 at 21:22
Hi Kristoffer,

Could you please describe in detail how you finally loosened the end nut. Did you use the same nut when reassembling the clutch? How did you lock it? This seems to be the most complicated part of the clutch repair.

Heikki
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astarte View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote astarte Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 July 2016 at 08:40
Hi Hekki,
The end nut has an inner part (ring) that is caulked into a groove in the shaft. Use a flat screw driver to open this. I had to drill it, but that has to be done very carefully so you not damage the threads on the shaft. In addition the end nut is fastened with Locktite, so you have to use quite some force. You can put the wrench into a pipe to get more force. I went to a mechanical workshop and they used an air operated wrench to loosen it for me. Remember the end nut is left threaded!! You have to put the whole assembly into a vice. Actually you should put the spline into a socket. This is unbelievable expensive from Yanmar. You can however use two pieces of Aluminium in the mouth of the vice. Since Aluminium is soft it will not damage the threads.

Then you should be able to do the repair and put things together again. I bought a new end nut from Yanmar. You should put Locktite on the new nut (I used normal type so I can open it again if needed). The nut should be fastened with 150 Nm. Finally caulk the end nut (the inner ring mentioned earlier) with a flat driver to lock it into the shaft. Remember to put gear oil on the assembly before trying to put it back into the sail drive.


Hope this helps.. Good luck.

Regards Kristoffer.
Kristoffer
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