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SD20 Saildrive

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Mike2145 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 19 June 2016 at 13:53
Recently discovered that the seacock on the Saildrive was not shutting off. No amount of persuasion was going to clear it. This seems to be a common problem.
Decided to replace with a stainless steel ball valve as described in other posts. This was done in the water. Despite worries this went without a hitch although be prepared for plenty of bailing afterward. I got about a bucket of water out. It's contained in the engine bilge pretty well.
I did test the bilge pump first. Glad I did as the float switch had stuck!
I'll post pictures and parts list later.

I would check your seacock to see if it is actually shutting off when you think it's closed.
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Mike2145 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike2145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2016 at 09:09
The new fittings in place.
Simpler to use as the multi turn gate valve was not in the best place for access. 
 
The flow is better now as the old gate valve was not opening fully as well as not closing fully!
 
When the boat is out of the water I will remove and check the installation and refit. 


Edited by Mike2145 - 20 June 2016 at 09:19
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Mike2145 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike2145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2016 at 09:15

Parts list (part no's are from ASAP in the UK).  All are 1/2 inch BSP

Equal Nipple Male/Male
423603
 
Ball Valve Female/female
405753
 
90 degree hose tail. Male/20mm Hose
422338
 
 
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CharlesP View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CharlesP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 June 2016 at 21:04
That looks a good and worthwhile job Mike. Was the old seacocks easy to get off?

Charles
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320 Nr 536 2010

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Mark_J1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark_J1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2016 at 09:54
Looks good.  I wanted to do similar but went a different route in the end.

When we took over Grey Goose her SD50 sail drive seacock had a similar problem.  It is really tough to get tools into that area on the 400 without resorting to a saw.  So I went with an engineer friends suggestion and we sourced a tap to 'recut' the thread in the gate valve.  I can provide the size if anyone needs it (or if you're currently on the R. Medway UK buy me beer and borrow it!).

Just needed to unscrew the valve from the body, run the tap down the thread to clear the calcium deposits, smear with grease and clean the valve thread before reinserting.  

Had the luxury of doing it when on the hard which took the stress out of the exercise.  I suspect our valve hadn't been regularly opened or closed in the hands of its former owner, or possibly its lay-up on the hard waiting to be sold let the calcium harden.  I open and close it each trip and it's been fine for 4 years since.  On the 400 it can be reached and turned from above the engine once you have it turning smoothly.

Mark

Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31
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Mike2145 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike2145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 June 2016 at 09:26
Originally posted by CharlesP CharlesP wrote:

That looks a good and worthwhile job Mike. Was the old seacocks easy to get off?

Charles

Hi Charles

Yes it was very easy.  I did spray some plusgas around the joint a few days before but I dont think it was required.  
There is an interesting thread on the 370/375 forum showing a trudesign valve.  May be a future option when the boat is out of the water.  I'll see what the stainless fitting is like at the end of the season.  No reports on other forums of problems.  

Mike
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JUTTER View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JUTTER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 November 2016 at 11:35
Hi Mike,

Nice job! After winter, I intend todo the same. One thing still puzzles me: the choice of the material of the valve and the fittings, since they are in full contact with the aluminium of the engine and with salt water. 
The original valve looks like it is made of some kind of messing. 
I am very curious about he reason that made you choose the stainless steel instead?

Claude
JUTTER, Hanse 350, 2010, deep keel, Zeeland
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Mike2145 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike2145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 November 2016 at 12:24
Originally posted by JUTTER JUTTER wrote:

Hi Mike,

Nice job! After winter, I intend todo the same. One thing still puzzles me: the choice of the material of the valve and the fittings, since they are in full contact with the aluminium of the engine and with salt water. 
The original valve looks like it is made of some kind of messing. 
I am very curious about he reason that made you choose the stainless steel instead?

Claude

Hi Claude

Thanks, it wasnt dfficult and done in the water so its not that hard.  The parts were used simply because the parts were easily available and other posters, with more knowledge than I, see no real issues.  One of the possible upgrades when the boat is out of the water will be to look at a 'plastic' option to prevent the possibility of electrolytic action. However, so far I dont believe there are any reports of issues with the materials used. The old valve was some form of Bronze or DZR Brass I believe so would have similar electric problems so my guess is that the installation is OK.  
I'll keep a watch on the forums to see if any problems are reported. 

If anyone can see an issue please let me know. 

Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JUTTER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 November 2016 at 16:30
Correction of my previous post:
Please, instead of messing read brass...

Claude
JUTTER, Hanse 350, 2010, deep keel, Zeeland
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Drumduff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 November 2016 at 20:08
Hi, 
SS, aluminium & seawater aren't the best combination. the aluminium & ss will corrode over time and the threads will seize or become damaged. Thread tape offers some protection but over time will degrade. I have just being doing the same job and have replaced all the seacocks with bronze. I would be wary of plastic type valves around any part the engine due to the heat that may build up around the engine should the water supply fail or the fan stops. Plastic and any kind of heat aren't a good combination either. 
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