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SD50 seacock |
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Admirable
Lieutenant Commander Joined: 12 November 2008 Status: Offline Points: 53 |
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Posted: 01 January 2014 at 22:37 |
Happy New Year to all,
Has anyone replaced the daft sea cock on their SD50 Saildrive. Mine would take about 20 turns to open/close fully and due to my arms being obviously too short, it was always a real struggle to do and therefore was only done if the boat was being left for a lengthy period. This winter layup, I've tried to close it shut but found that the inlet must have been fouled as it was not shut fully and water still came in. I will remove it when l lift out in April but would like to replace it with a ball valve type or what fellow owners might recommend and especially one easier to reach and operate. |
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Songbird
470e |
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Mark_J1
Rear Admiral Joined: 12 March 2013 Location: Dover&Medway UK Status: Offline Points: 526 |
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I've got the same problem to deal with on the jobs list for Grey Goose. There seem 3 alternatives:
There are a few references to this on myHanse and in other forums but sadly I've not yet found any blow-by-blow detail. Share if you find anything? I've got a couple of calls out with Yanmar engineers trying to get an idea of what's involved, cost and options etc. I'll share what I get back. Mark ...and a quick PS as an edit. There is an option 4. Fit another thru-hull and seacock for the engine raw water coolant. Blank off the Yanmar gate valve. (A slightly tempting option!) Edited by Mark_J1 - 03 January 2014 at 00:13 |
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Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31
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CharlesP
Admiral Joined: 23 September 2010 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1208 |
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"...and a quick PS as an edit. There is an option 4. Fit another thru-hull and seacock for the engine raw water coolant. Blank off the Yanmar gate valve. (A slightly tempting option!)"
This would stop cooling water being drawn through the saildrive. Would that be ok? Charles |
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'MERIDIAN LADY'
320 Nr 536 2010 Medway |
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Admirable
Lieutenant Commander Joined: 12 November 2008 Status: Offline Points: 53 |
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Hi Mark,
Thanks for your reply and to Charles for his suggestion. I am still pondering what to do. I have asked a Yanmar main dealer whether he has any suggestions too and wait for his reply. I think the best solution is the ball valve and l would be quite happy to install a Trudesign one made of composite which is what l have done with all my other seacocks replacing the brass type which are not fit for purpose IMHO. As for adding another thru-hull fitting, l prefer not to as l'm happy that there enough holes in the boat already! Also, l suspect that the cooling seawater inlet in the sail drive casing has a cooling function on the gearbox too and bypassing this would leave this un-cooled and raise additional problems. My friend who is a marine engineer in Auckland seems to think that the composite type will do the trick or a recognised bronze fitting or DZR. I will keep you posted as to what l decide to do and as the boat isn't being lifted until April then l have some time to decide. Cheers Philip
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Songbird
470e |
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skipper
Vice Admiral Joined: 16 February 2008 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 825 |
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Option 4 have I heard before, one benefit is that it is easy to remove dirt if the waterflow is stopped compared with issues inside the saildrive (could be barnacle reducing the water flow).
Have not done that on our boat (yet)
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Cheers,
Skipper Former owner of Hanse 342 2005 (Sparcraft mast, white hull, wheel steering, deep draft keel, short rudder) |
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Lippe
Commadore Joined: 05 September 2009 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 356 |
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Hi,
I have never been able to close the seacock in my SD50. It is jammed open and I thought reading your three alternatives to add a Truedesign valve from SVB to the hose from cock. Today I checked the situation in boat and decided that will not do anything before it is time for a major overhaul. Then will replace the jammed valve. I see do particualr safety problem because the hose goes up to the sea-water filter that is above waterline. If I have to change impeller to sea-water pump opening the filter element's cover stops water (vacuum) coming to pump and in any case putting a plug or anything to filter's inlet cuts water from coming up. Best Regards Kari |
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CharlesP
Admiral Joined: 23 September 2010 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1208 |
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I think the main safety problem would come if the hose is split. I normally close the valve when we leave the boat as a precaution.
Charles |
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'MERIDIAN LADY'
320 Nr 536 2010 Medway |
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H64
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 22 September 2019 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 16 |
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Hi
I have a Hanse 430 with the SD50 and the standard seacock for cooling water inlet. I wonder if anyone has replaced the original seackock with the optimized seacock which comes with the SD60? Will it fit without any "adapter" parts? I have tried two Yanmar reps but they do not know and say not even Yanmar Country organization knows. Thanks in advance for any support on this topic. Best regards Patrik
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Rock
Captain Joined: 19 September 2014 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 349 |
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I replaced my SD50 with a SD60.
Work done by yanmar dealer. Back then I never thought of asking about the seacock. Since this discussion I took a closer look, it actually looks like a ‘normal’ seacock/ballvalve. Will post a picture this weekend. Peter Edited by Rock - 25 May 2021 at 13:36 |
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Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241
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Borjebus
Commander Joined: 29 January 2013 Location: Sweden W Status: Offline Points: 111 |
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I repeat from another thread:
I replaced the original SD50 valve with bronze material - 1" male/male, 1" ball-valve, hose fitting. /Börje |
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BÄSK, Hanse 370e #82 from 2006, Yanmar 3JH4E/SD50, 3-blade Flexofold, RMC(Lewmar) 185 Bowthruster, Vulcan 9, Simrad+B&G instruments
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