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Sea water pump overhaul

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D0bbies View Drop Down
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    Posted: 28 November 2018 at 14:34

Engine: 2GM20

Having noticed some water leakage from my sea water cooling pump I decided to remove it and take a close look. The whole thing came apart fairly easily and once cleaned up there was very little signs of shaft wear.



The end plate which houses the impeller has an area thatís been polished by the rotating impeller leaving two slightly raised sections on the inner and outer section of the plate. could anyone offer advice on whether or not this plate started life completely flat? If so Iíll skim it.



There are three seals to replace, and according to the catalogue they are:
 
Cat No. 14 1 x O-Ring: X0506513
Cat No. 15 1 x O-Ring: X0506523
Cat No. 18 1 x Lip seal: X0529139

Your comments and experience would be appreciated

Cheers
Bob
2005 312, Tiller, Engine 2GM20, SD20 Saildrive. Facnor SD 130 Furler.
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Martin&Rene View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 November 2018 at 16:14
You may find the following of interest.

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?400719-Substantial-money-saving-tips-for-Yanmar-GM-Series-owners/page2
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout & shallow keel, normally based in Scotland
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D0bbies View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote D0bbies Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 November 2018 at 20:12
Thank you Martin&Rene,

The link you posted had an interesting theme but my requirements are just for seals. It did however point me to a website that can probably supply the seals I require at a reasonable price:

https://www.lancashireseals.co.uk.

Many thanks
Bob
2005 312, Tiller, Engine 2GM20, SD20 Saildrive. Facnor SD 130 Furler.
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 November 2018 at 18:32
Instead of skimming the plate, why not just turn it over?


Edited by samuel - 29 November 2018 at 18:33
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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perry View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote perry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 November 2018 at 07:27
Sea water Pump Seals

Standard lip seals at reasonable price in Nitrile Rubber are fine BUT they come standard with carbon steel springs which if exposed to sea water [not the oil seal side of pump] will corrode rapidly away.
So either remove the stainless springs from old seals and fit them to new seals
Or buy viton seals 'more expensive' which are usually [check with your supplier]  fitted with stainless springs;  as I believe nitrile rubber is better than viton in this application I remove the stainless springs from the viton seal and fit them to nitrile seals.

Incidently the old trick of checking if the material is indeed stainless using a magnet,  doesnt work as the grade of stainless steel used in springs is "martensitic" which is magnetic.
You can get sensibly priced seals both nitrile and viton from :-
https://simplybearings.co.uk

Regards
Perry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sea-U Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 November 2018 at 13:23
Big problem!
The bearings are very weak.
Mine went after just 5 years. 
I think you should change the bearings too.


Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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perry View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote perry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 November 2018 at 21:02
Further to my notes on seals, Simply bearings will supply bearings at reasonable prices.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote D0bbies Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 December 2018 at 07:40
Interesting Post "Perry".

I'm changing both shaft seals and found just one dodgy bearing; ( 6001-2RSH - SKF ) so I'm replacing that as well. I'm awaiting delivery from BearingShopUK.co.uk.

I'll check to see if I can swap the spring over from the old seal without damage, but there again it's not that much hassle to replace the seals every 4/5 years anyway.

Nice one Samuel, I'd already thought of that but decided to skim the inside anyway. A bit of OCD maybe Big smile Geek. It wasn't difficult with a large variable speed hand grinder fitted with a 120 grade sanding disk, and mounted on the hard flat rubber backing disk supplied. I had to remove around 0.010"/015" to bottom the corrosion and it took around 30 minutes.

Going off Piste a little: I've been following the GGR with passion and was devastated yesterday to hear of Susie Goodall's plight. Thankfully she seems to be OK but I'm sure she could have caught up with and passed Uku. Great sailor.

Bob
2005 312, Tiller, Engine 2GM20, SD20 Saildrive. Facnor SD 130 Furler.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote perry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 December 2018 at 08:15
You must change the lip seal springs its easy its just a fingernail job: note dont crush these tiny springs with heavy handed use if tweezersr small pliers.

The non-stainless springs will quickly turn to rust and fall out in seawater;  I know I learnt the lesson the hard way.
Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote D0bbies Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 December 2018 at 08:30
[QUOTE=perry]
You must change the lip seal springs its easy its just a fingernail job: note dont crush these tiny springs with heavy handed use if tweezersr small pliers.

The non-stainless springs will quickly turn to rust and fall out in seawater;  I know I learnt the lesson the hard way.
[/QUOTE

Thank you for the tip.
2005 312, Tiller, Engine 2GM20, SD20 Saildrive. Facnor SD 130 Furler.
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