Sea water pump overhaul

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Engine: 2GM20

Having noticed some water leakage from my sea water cooling pump I decided to remove it and take a close look. The whole thing came apart fairly easily and once cleaned up there was very little signs of shaft wear.

The end plate which houses the impeller has an area that’s been polished by the rotating impeller leaving two slightly raised sections on the inner and outer section of the plate. could anyone offer advice on whether or not this plate started life completely flat? If so I’ll skim it.

There are three seals to replace, and according to the catalogue they are:

Cat No. 14 1 x O-Ring: X0506513
Cat No. 15 1 x O-Ring: X0506523
Cat No. 18 1 x Lip seal: X0529139

Your comments and experience would be appreciated

Cheers
Bob

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D0bbies Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Captain Joined: 05 August 2014 Location: Falmouth, UK Status: Offline Points: 200	Post Options Post Reply Quote D0bbies Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Sea water pump overhaul Posted: 28 November 2018 at 14:34
	Engine: 2GM20 Having noticed some water leakage from my sea water cooling pump I decided to remove it and take a close look. The whole thing came apart fairly easily and once cleaned up there was very little signs of shaft wear. The end plate which houses the impeller has an area that’s been polished by the rotating impeller leaving two slightly raised sections on the inner and outer section of the plate. could anyone offer advice on whether or not this plate started life completely flat? If so I’ll skim it. There are three seals to replace, and according to the catalogue they are: Cat No. 14 1 x O-Ring: X0506513 Cat No. 15 1 x O-Ring: X0506523 Cat No. 18 1 x Lip seal: X0529139 Your comments and experience would be appreciated Cheers Bob
	2005 312, Tiller, Engine 2GM20, SD20 Saildrive. Facnor SD 130 Furler.

Martin&Rene Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commadore Joined: 06 December 2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 359	Post Options Post Reply Quote Martin&Rene Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 November 2018 at 16:14
	You may find the following of interest. http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?400719-Substantial-money-saving-tips-for-Yanmar-GM-Series-owners/page2
	Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout & shallow keel, normally based in Scotland

D0bbies Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Captain Joined: 05 August 2014 Location: Falmouth, UK Status: Offline Points: 200	Post Options Post Reply Quote D0bbies Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 November 2018 at 20:12
	Thank you Martin&Rene, The link you posted had an interesting theme but my requirements are just for seals. It did however point me to a website that can probably supply the seals I require at a reasonable price: https://www.lancashireseals.co.uk. Many thanks Bob
	2005 312, Tiller, Engine 2GM20, SD20 Saildrive. Facnor SD 130 Furler.

samuel Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admiral of the Fleet Joined: 26 December 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2187	Post Options Post Reply Quote samuel Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 November 2018 at 18:32
	Instead of skimming the plate, why not just turn it over? Edited by samuel - 29 November 2018 at 18:33
	Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex

perry Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Lieutenant Commander Joined: 13 October 2015 Location: IOW Status: Online Points: 54	Post Options Post Reply Quote perry Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 November 2018 at 07:27
	Sea water Pump Seals Standard lip seals at reasonable price in Nitrile Rubber are fine BUT they come standard with carbon steel springs which if exposed to sea water [not the oil seal side of pump] will corrode rapidly away. So either remove the stainless springs from old seals and fit them to new seals Or buy viton seals 'more expensive' which are usually [check with your supplier] fitted with stainless springs; as I believe nitrile rubber is better than viton in this application I remove the stainless springs from the viton seal and fit them to nitrile seals. Incidently the old trick of checking if the material is indeed stainless using a magnet, doesnt work as the grade of stainless steel used in springs is "martensitic" which is magnetic. You can get sensibly priced seals both nitrile and viton from :- https://simplybearings.co.uk Regards Perry
	Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017

Sea-U Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commadore Joined: 14 September 2012 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 404	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sea-U Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 November 2018 at 13:23
	Big problem! The bearings are very weak. Mine went after just 5 years. I think you should change the bearings too.
	Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway

perry Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Lieutenant Commander Joined: 13 October 2015 Location: IOW Status: Online Points: 54	Post Options Post Reply Quote perry Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 November 2018 at 21:02
	Further to my notes on seals, Simply bearings will supply bearings at reasonable prices.
	Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017

D0bbies Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Captain Joined: 05 August 2014 Location: Falmouth, UK Status: Offline Points: 200	Post Options Post Reply Quote D0bbies Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 December 2018 at 07:40
	Interesting Post "Perry". I'm changing both shaft seals and found just one dodgy bearing; ( 6001-2RSH - SKF ) so I'm replacing that as well. I'm awaiting delivery from BearingShopUK.co.uk. I'll check to see if I can swap the spring over from the old seal without damage, but there again it's not that much hassle to replace the seals every 4/5 years anyway. Nice one Samuel, I'd already thought of that but decided to skim the inside anyway. A bit of OCD maybe . It wasn't difficult with a large variable speed hand grinder fitted with a 120 grade sanding disk, and mounted on the hard flat rubber backing disk supplied. I had to remove around 0.010"/015" to bottom the corrosion and it took around 30 minutes. Going off Piste a little: I've been following the GGR with passion and was devastated yesterday to hear of Susie Goodall's plight. Thankfully she seems to be OK but I'm sure she could have caught up with and passed Uku. Great sailor. Bob
	2005 312, Tiller, Engine 2GM20, SD20 Saildrive. Facnor SD 130 Furler.

perry Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Lieutenant Commander Joined: 13 October 2015 Location: IOW Status: Online Points: 54	Post Options Post Reply Quote perry Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 December 2018 at 08:15
	You must change the lip seal springs its easy its just a fingernail job: note dont crush these tiny springs with heavy handed use if tweezersr small pliers. The non-stainless springs will quickly turn to rust and fall out in seawater; I know I learnt the lesson the hard way.
	Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017

D0bbies Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Captain Joined: 05 August 2014 Location: Falmouth, UK Status: Offline Points: 200	Post Options Post Reply Quote D0bbies Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 December 2018 at 08:30
	[QUOTE=perry] You must change the lip seal springs its easy its just a fingernail job: note dont crush these tiny springs with heavy handed use if tweezersr small pliers. The non-stainless springs will quickly turn to rust and fall out in seawater; I know I learnt the lesson the hard way. [/QUOTE Thank you for the tip.
	2005 312, Tiller, Engine 2GM20, SD20 Saildrive. Facnor SD 130 Furler.



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