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third reef row???

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Habamano View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 April 2007 at 18:34
Is there anyone out there, please, who had a third reef row put into the main sail ?? Is it a good idea ??
And If so, how is it done as regards reefing line cleats, etc. ?? (give up reef 1 ??)
I sail a 312 which I have just bought.
thanks for any view on this
Habamano

Edited by Habamano - 09 April 2007 at 18:41
wr
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 April 2007 at 16:35
I have a third reef & felt it was necessary as I have been overpowered in high winds with the main only & only 2 reefs.
The system has to be set up differently to the existing single line reefing as one does not want the lines flapping on the sail all the way up to the third reef point.
System is as follows:-
Have slots cut in the boom cover at the correct spot to line with the reef points as it does for first & second reef.
Splice a short line with loops each end which goes around the boom & through the slots. Tie 2 knots in the line to prevent it falling back through the slots when not in use. The ends would normally just lay inside the cover.
Fortunately Hanse do not skimp the control line lengths so you can use the clew outhaul to pull the clew on the third reef if it is long enough. To do this you need a good quality snap shackle fitted to the clew outhaul.
When you want to pull in the third reef just get one end of the strop & pass it through the new eyelet in the leech  & the other end of the strop through the loop which you have just passed through the sail
Transfer the clew outhaul ( which will be redundant as you will already have the other 2 reefs in) to the strop. this means when you tighten the clew outhaul which is now the third reef outhaul it pulls the sail down & outwards as the strop tightens itsel as it is pulled. The pull is a bit better than the pull you get from first & second reefs & as it is a single line you can get a better set.
You should look at the mast end before doing this & what I use is a short strop 21 inches long. I half this &  pass the bight through the spinnaker ring on the front of the mast. The 2 end pass through this & this stops you dropping it over the side. You can set this prior to sailing if you are expecting heavy weather. It will just hang off the ring.
You take the 2 ends ( With snap shackles attached )  either side of the mast & fasten to the 2 metal rings on the luff of the sail. The idea is to give a FIXED point of pull. If you did what I did first time round & use a line to the mast foot you can easily tighten too hard & pull the redundant sail slides down the mast & the stopper pops out and the sail unravels.
Having a fixed strop avoids a load of blocks & tackles as well. ( which can all fail in a blow)
The forward strop has to fix to the spinnaker ring as if it came straight to the deck it would not give any forward pull & as you tension the outhaul you would pull the luff aft. having 2 ends to this strop also keeps the sail luff sitting centrally.
Finally you need to mark on the sail where you want the sliders at the 3rd reef position. You cannot have any right near this point as you would not be able to pull the sail down low as the slider on the sail immediately above or below the 3rd reef would hit on the other sliders & prevent it coming down ,or you may pull them out of the track.
You have to go forward in a blow to set the front strop & you have to drop the boom into the cockpit to transfer the clew outhaul but if you leave port with a reef on to start with you can have the clew outhaul  unhooked & laying in the cover ready to use.
To drop the boom into the cockpit you need to slacken the lazyjacks. however, you do not want to fiddle with this in a blow so what I have done is fit a really strong bungee to the end of the lazyjacks at the mast foot. This allows me to get a bit more pull when I need it & it takes the slack out when i don't.
All works OK & the awkward bit is going on deck when it is rough to fix the mast strop. Perhaps it is the system of 1st & second reef & furling jib that makes me lazy. Still it beats the old days when i had to go forward to unhank & change foresails as well. Now there's a story !!!
Daydream Believer
 
 
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Gregor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 April 2007 at 22:28
Daydream believer,

Thanks for the explanation!
Do you have some pictures to make it even more clear??

Thanks,
Gregor
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 April 2007 at 13:38
Boat has only just been relaunched so will not be rigged for a week
Will have a go then
Daydream Believer
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cptgood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cptgood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 April 2018 at 10:33
Please, put some pictures (expecially of the forward strop system).
thanks
Hanse320 - Hull#100/08
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 April 2018 at 12:24
Originally posted by cptgood cptgood wrote:

Please, put some pictures (expecially of the forward strop system).
thanks

These are on the forum somewhere, but my boat goes in the water soon & once the mainsail goes back on I will take some more photos & post them. I cannot find the original ones at present, Sorry
Samuel

PS
I found the old link on the subject if it works !! but I will post better pictures later
http://www.myhanse.com/main-sheet_topic10522_post88458.html?KW=reef#88458


Edited by samuel - 16 April 2018 at 12:35
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 April 2018 at 17:15
Originally posted by cptgood cptgood wrote:

Please, put some pictures (expecially of the forward strop system).
thanks

Try these


this strop is the same on the other side & just hooks to the spectacles on the sail. It should be shorter but it is off my old sail & I have not bothered to change it yet. Excuse the piece of elastic. I had been making a repair & had forgotten to remove it



The aft line is basically a strop with an eye through which the other end passes & as the outhaul is tightened it pulls the leech down & out. It is not down tight at the moment as I only hoisted it for the photo. When the sail is shaking the rope pulls through easily & i tighten the outhaul with the winch

One thing to note about having the leech line & the forward strop is that if for any reason the first or second reef failed I can always fix this in its place in a few minutes & carry on sailing


Edited by samuel - 21 April 2018 at 07:51
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 April 2018 at 13:59
With sailing a slightly bigger yacht and having a fixed rod kicker, I use a slightly different set-up for the third reef.

I have previously described it here.

http://www.myhanse.com/single-line-3rd-reefing-setup_topic10548_post88610.html?KW=#88610 

The general concensus is that with the wind forward of the beam, the Hanses sail very well, reefing the main until it is down to a third reef, and only then do you start to think about doing anything with the jib, but by then it is probably blowing a F6.   Though you may only use it a couple of times a year, knowing how to set up a third reef gives you so much more confidence.  
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout & shallow keel, normally based in Scotland
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cptgood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 April 2018 at 14:08
Thanks Samuel for the pictures.
I wonder how difficult it is to pass the strop through the aft eyelet during the maneuver in high sea/wind, while the sail is beating madly and the boom is place outward.
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 April 2018 at 15:26
Originally posted by cptgood cptgood wrote:

Thanks Samuel for the pictures.
I wonder how difficult it is to pass the strop through the aft eyelet during the maneuver in high sea/wind, while the sail is beating madly and the boom is place outward.


It is quite easy . Being single handed I start the engine & motor head to wind for a short while so that the autopilot has something to steer against. Then i just drop the main halyard &  the topping lift so i can reach the clew standing in the centre of the cockpit , sheet in the mainsheet a bit to stop it swinging. I go forward & clip the strop round the mast first. The shaking, which is not that bad, helps the leach strop work its way through & is easier to tension. Tension on the halyard lifts it all clear of the cockpit & one can turn the engine off & bear away
Apart from going forward, which I always hate in any conditions, the whole operation is quite quick.
Since I have had it I have not done it above f8 but it works in quite windy weather  OK so I am confident.
A thinner dynema strop would be easier to threadle through the sail but I do not find it necessary.


Edited by samuel - 24 April 2018 at 15:35
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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