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Top part of the forestay

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Johan Hackman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johan Hackman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2011 at 10:01
This is getting interesting.

I was not aware that the foil is telescopic and that you can change its length. It sure looks like my deflector would have been in a much better position had the foil been a bit shorter.

I have looked at my older pictures and have realised that the deflector never was attached to the foil. I initially thought it had worked itself loose with time.

I emailed the Swedish Facnor/Sparcraft-dealer/rig-shop (www.benns.se) and they told me I could get rid of the deflector. It would only prevent the gennaker halyard to wrap around the foil and I don't see that as a problem. They also told me that Facnor have issued a new top swivel that they've sold to Hanse owners with heavy furlers. I will check this up as well as the bearings Holby praise before I take my mast down later this month.

I wonder how you actually remove the deflector? Advice welcome.

Johan
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holby View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote holby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2011 at 11:29
Yes If you look towards the bottom of the foil you will see that one slides into another. I have not actually investigated this, but it seems feasable to me that it may be to long and that is why the marks are on the halyard deflector.  I will get info on the bearings.
Dave
Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)
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holby View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote holby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2011 at 11:46
update, I am awaiting on some pictures as we speak but after discussions etc. The following has emerged;-
 
The foil is made up of sections, usually about 2mtrs but this can vary depending on make, and the foil is built from the top down. At the top of each section and sometime the bottom of each section as well, depends on make and model, there is a set of foil bearings this keeps the forestay in the center of the foil and allows the foil to rotate around the forestay smoothly. The ones at the top and the botom of the complete foil take the main load and these often are the first to wear. The more sets to wear then the friction inside builds up and this then can be a cause of the roller reefing system being hard to furl and unfurl.
With regards to the Halyard deflector, his view is that it should be left in place and not removed.  The small grooves that Johan and I have seen in our deflector is the deflector working and oing its job, the amount of friction this builds up is small compared to defective bearings.  The telescopic section, usually the bottom section of the foil slides into the next section upwards. This can be adjusted up or down and usually there are holes approx 100mm appart for the securing screws. The position for adjustment is obviously dependent on the length of the Luff and if it is the correct length and clear at the top then all is OK. The adjustment due to the holes being 100mm apart is the closest you can get, and if this causes slight rubbing on the deflector then this is not a problem.
 
I will try and get pictures of the bearings ASAP
Dave
PS Hope this helps
 
Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)
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holby View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote holby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2011 at 14:23
Here is a link to an  exploded diagram of the Facnor Roller reefing.
 
Obviously not sure if it is everybodys model but I should think the idea is the same.
Dave
 
 
Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)
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holby View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote holby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2011 at 16:47
I have now got a Facnor Roller Reefing  Manual, for the fitting of the unit, and spare parts listing. it is a file of 2MB.
Does anybody know how I can put this up on the Forum as it only allows file uploads of 750Mb?
Cheers.
Dave
Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)
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Johan Hackman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johan Hackman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 September 2011 at 08:58
I put the manual here: http://www.johanhackman.se/SD headsail furler installation manual.pdf for anyone else who might be interested. Thanks, Dave!

Johan
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panos View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote panos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 September 2011 at 14:50
Hi,

I would get rid of this ugly deflector ASAP.
This device is only useful to those who winch the roller reefing line in and therefore are not sensitive to any increase of resistance caused by a fouled jib halyard.

To remove it it is not necessary to unstep the mast nor to hire a crane.


Edited by panos - 09 September 2011 at 14:51
Panos

Hanse 630e - selling her -
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Johan Hackman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johan Hackman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 September 2011 at 20:33
I wrote to Facnor and attached the pictures previously shown in this thread and their reply was that it is "one or the other but not both" - with the restrainer I don't need the deflector.

Johan
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Johan Hackman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johan Hackman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 September 2011 at 10:16
I have also been informed Facnor have replaced the halyard swivel that I have on my boat, C38, with an improved version which will be much smoother, called CHD38. I think the difference is the torlon bearings, but I am not sure.

I lowered my swivel and put a line between it and the furler drum and tensioned the halyard to see how heavy the swivel is under load. My conclusion is that the swivel is one of the major culprits when it comes to making the furling system heavy. The replacement is very costly though.

Facnor also informed me that the swivel should not be lower from the foil cap than 50-100 mm. My jib is not taller than to position the swivel approx 300 mm below the cap and Facnor adviced me to put a cord between the head of the sail and the swivel.

Has anyone replaced their halyard swivel? I know Idelfix has, which can be read about in this thread for those of you who understand Swedish.

Johan



Edited by Johan Hackman - 25 September 2011 at 10:17
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Johan Hackman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johan Hackman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 October 2011 at 17:09
Here is a picture of the forementioned upgrade of the swivel. I had to use all the money I had saved for old age and will have to live on cat food when the day comes. I have not yet fitted it so I can't tell you if it makes the furler work smooth enough to justify the money.

What I can tell you is that the upgrade swivel is very robust and made of some metal alloy as opposed to the standard swivel's composite plastic.

Johan

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