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Sail Drive Coating

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Rock View Drop Down
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    Posted: 18 March 2015 at 20:50
Today I noticed that the coating on my saildrive (2007) is not as good as it should be.
I see what looks like pitting.
The anode clearly does it's job (visibly) but isn't worn badly.
 
I'm thinking to put an extra coat of epoxy on teh sail drive.
 
Anybody done this before, what type of epoxy coating did you use?
 
I'll also be putting a new flap on.
 
Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241
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Pride of Waterford View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pride of Waterford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2015 at 21:31
Yes, I did this on my 370.
I really cleaned it up with wet and dry then applied some:

Hempel Epoxy Primer Undercoat / Light Primer.

This is suitable for aluminium substrates. I put on 3 coats and then anti fouled on top with aluminium suitable anti foul. You will only need a small can of the primer as it goes a long way.
You also need to ensure that all the retaining screws on the sail drive are tight and making good contact and that the mating surface between the sail drive and anode is really clean.
I know its probably obvious but you don't paint that surface. I Painted my sail drive with an old anode in place then cleaned it all up before putting a new anode on.

I had some pitting on the sail drive as the previous owner had only put two retaining screws in the anode and the two he put in were  loose.
Hope this helps.
All best
Jon
Brod Port Lairge
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Rock View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2015 at 21:55
Thanks Jon.
What's the thought behind the surface between anode an sail drive being really clean?
I took the anode off and put it back on, applied blue lock tight on the retaining screws.
Are you saying the anode and sail drive need to make electrical contact, how would that work through the coating of the sail drive, or do the screws do that?
Peter
Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241
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Sea-U View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sea-U Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 March 2015 at 12:28
On my previous boat with a Volvo 2002 and saildrive I always had a problem with the anode. Every time I had to change the anode even though it was as new. It had come loose, corroded under and around the bolts.
I think I never got it cleaned enough,... and tight enough.
Else the anode was not corroded at all, could probably have lasted for many years. Now I will not change before I defenately need one.
Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway
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Colin Fisher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Colin Fisher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 March 2015 at 17:44
Hi Peter.

The issue of maintaining the protective coating is an important one and it has occurred to me that It may be necessary to remove the outer rubber gasket periodically to paint the saildrive in the recess.

Did you find that the corrosion extended up beyond the outer gasket?

Regards

Colin.
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Rock View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 March 2015 at 16:53
Interesting question Colin.
I had to take a look, the pitting does not extend in the recess above the rubber flap. 
 
I wonder why, as that part is also submerged.
 
 


Edited by Rock - 20 March 2015 at 16:55
Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241
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sailkoop View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sailkoop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 March 2015 at 19:52
Hi!
The answer is, it's still dark and no Sunshine is coming to that Area!
best regards

Bjoern

http://www.sy-serafina.de
Hanse 470e #165

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Colin Fisher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Colin Fisher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 March 2015 at 10:55
Hi Peter.

Useful photo , thanks .
If you have ongoing concerns about corrosion I would recommend two things;

1) Definitely check with a Ohm meter the connectivity between the anode and a the saildrive leg (exposed bare metal required for this).

2)Consider adding a "Hanging anode" . This is done by connecting a 4mm ss wire to the gearbox inside the boat and leading that cable to the rear compartment , and through the vent in the transom and then into the sea with a small zinc anode.
This can be lifted out of the water when you are sailing.
Hanging anodes are recommended by M G Duff manufacturers of anodes.

Colin
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Rock View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 March 2015 at 15:56
Did a little refit of the saildrive.
Epoxy primer
 
3 layers Epoxy high solids coating
 
New Rubber flap
Make sure to first remove the release agent used during the production process, otherwise it won't stick well.
Clean with Acetone
sand
clean with acetone
In this order, don't sand first otherwise you push the release agent in the pores and hardly get it off anymore.
 
Sand the hull.
Clean the hull with acetone.
Sikaflex 291 on the flap
Ensure Sikaflex is under the entire surface.
The flap won't come off anymore.
 
 
 
 
The new sacrificial anodes are split in 2 halfs, so you don't have to remove the prop to change it.
 
 
The new 17x13 Flexofold !
 
 
As good as (or perhaps better than) new !


Edited by Rock - 27 March 2015 at 16:20
Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241
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BelGiorno View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BelGiorno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 March 2015 at 16:36
The condition of the sail drive coating is very important to prevent corrosion. Here is a link to a Yanmar service advisory which has recommendations on sail drive coatings:

http://us.yanmar.com/media/ext/uploaded/379a085c-ef67-4ff7-bc0e-43bf704eccda/MSA2010-007_Saildrive%20Corrosion.pdf
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