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311 Measurement from Bow roller to cleats

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chaosss View Drop Down
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    Posted: 26 March 2024 at 10:08
Hi All

I'm hopefully in the process of agreeing a purchase of a Hanse 311.

This will be on a swinging mooring which is about to get laid and therefore I need to think about mooring strops. Current thinking is two mooring strops over bow rollers to the cleats.

In order to get some made would anybody be able to help with the following information:
1) Length from bow roller to cleats
2) Height from bow roller to waterline

In my excitement I forgot to measure during viewings!

Thanks all and look forward to being involved in more discussions going forward.


Edited by chaosss - 26 March 2024 at 10:09
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sgrhma2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sgrhma2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 March 2024 at 11:51
While not the dimensions for a 311, the set up I use for my 370 on a mooring and has worked perfectly since 2005 may be useful for you. I use 25mm seasteel rope, which is used in fishing as trawl ropes. It is very strong, uv and abrasion resistant. Where it goes through the bow roller fitting and over the roller I have a piece of old fire hose to protect it from chafing, all held in place by cable ties. On the main line I have an eye spliced to go over one of the bow cleats and another with a nylon thimble for connecting to the mooring. A second line with an eye splice for the second bow cleat is spliced into the main line where it exits the bow roller on deck. The position of where the second line is spliced into the main line is such that when both eyes are on their respective bow cleats, the mainline is inline with and does not touch the side cheeks of the bow roller. This simple mooring strop bridle evenly shares the load on both bow cleats and prevents chafing of it. I have no chaff prevention on the cleat eyes and there has never been any evidence of it or need for it over the past 19 years. 

I replaced my original mooring strop about 3 years ago with the same again, not because there was any noticeable ware on it but out of caution that it was something I should do.

My boat is moored at Ringhaddy in Strangford Lough where there is a steady tidal run. Iíve also made similar mooring strops for several friends that moor their boats as well.

Hope this is useful 

Simon 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ggerrit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 March 2024 at 16:13
Hi Simon,
do you have a picture of your mooring strop ?
 Gerard
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sgrhma2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sgrhma2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 March 2024 at 21:46
Unfortunately not, but I might be able to get one.

Simon 
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chaosss View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chaosss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 March 2024 at 21:47
Thanks Simon - thatís really useful
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 March 2024 at 20:30
When I did have to go on a mooring for a while after I bought the boat new I had 2 equal length mooring strops. Each about 2 metres long 25mm multiplait (I make them for the mooring holders in our bay as I lay the moorings & sell the mooring tackle as well) they comprise a 10 inch eye one end & an eye with a nylon thimble the other. One goes on each cleat & straight over the opposite sides of the boat. Not through the fairleads, as these always chaffe the ropes.They would also catch on the anchor. The 2 ropes then attach to the eye on the top of the buoy with separate moused shackles .The buoys that I sell have eyes that swivel so the 2 ropes do not twist together.

I then had a 6mm stainless steel chain that goes over the bow roller that hangs fairly loose & hooks over one cleat & fixes to the buoy with a third shackle. This is loose so it does not damage the bow roller
The ropes have a short line that ties the ropes to the cleats so they do not jump off

I use the same system for my launch & also my Squib which I moor in the summer. My launch & Squib have a braided pipe over the ropes to help protect them. My Hanse 311 did not need it. A pickup buoy is attached to one rope with a 1 metre thin line

I now keep my Hanse in the marina & never put the lines through the fairleads. Even when visiting another port, as the fairleads cause chafe. The stainless steel edging is quite smooth.The stern line leaves the cleat & goes straight over the side so has little to chafe against
I currently assist in looking  after 31 moorings & have made penants for nearly every boat & it works well with a main rope, some have a slightly longer reserve rope then a loose chain The reserve rope has the penant as it is easier to get the initial hook up, being longer. Then the crew can gather the other penant & the chain at their leisure. Chains do damage to the bow rollers but give peace of mind as a final reserve..


Edited by samuel - 27 March 2024 at 20:43
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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andybutkiwi71 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote andybutkiwi71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 April 2024 at 10:07
Hi all, I was just looking for posts on Hanse 301 and noted the trail.  I've had my Hanse on a swinging mooring a couple of years and it is certainly important to get the mooring setup right.  My mooring has end eye which I place over the port cleat which is 1.0m aft of the roller.  I then double up with a mooring warp on the starboard side run through the buoy bottom pennant shackle.  However a word of warning I also now have an extra strapping across the roller as during storms 2022 last autumn the vessel was pitching quite a bit and the (in my opinion weak) aluminium locking bar was damaged with bow down and the mooring chain rode up side of the stemhead distorting the plates.  All repaired but it's certainly something to bear in mind.  I'm a Naval Architect / Structural engineer and whilst it was an accidental loading, the stemhead plating is in pretty think for this size of yacht (around 6 mm whereas I would expect 10mm or more) so it should be avoided getting any loading outside of the roller (plan for the worse!!) if of interest I know an excellent Stainless fabricator as well for these sort of repairs !!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 April 2024 at 13:16
Are you saying that one penant is fixed under the buoy & one on top?
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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