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4JH4 HTE cooling drain

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Idratherbesailing View Drop Down
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    Posted: 28 February 2019 at 08:55
Hi.
I would like to drain and replace the coolant. I just can't figure out exactly where the drain cock is, or what it looks like.  There are 3 of them I gather, but I am told you only really need to drain from the stb side one.  I have the manual and there is a line drawing, but I have not been able to identify the drain cock from this.  Can anyone give me any pointers as to what I am looking for? I'm concerned I might loosen the wrong thing and start draining fuel or oil or...? 

Thanks!

gpw
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Idratherbesailing View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Idratherbesailing Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 March 2019 at 13:16
I think I have identified the drain, any confirmation from someone more knowledgable appreciated!  And then I presume it is the bottom bolt/plug that needs to be undone, right?
Thanks. 
gpw
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JonB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JonB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 March 2019 at 20:05
Gpw,

You could always undo one of the jubilee clips on the water hoses, say that that feeds the Calorfier heater and make sure its lower than the engine (with a bucket).

I'm back on the boat tomorrow and will take a pic of the front of mine where I think a similar valve is close to the thermostat.

When you do top it up make sure you remove one of the pipes at the Calorfier to get all the air out otherwise you'll not heat the water in the tank and could get an airlock.
Jon B
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Idratherbesailing View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Idratherbesailing Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 March 2019 at 10:39
Thanks.  Appreciated. 
gpw
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JonB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JonB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 March 2019 at 19:39
Gpw,

Below is the photo of the front of my engine with the fan belt cover removed.

You can see below the fresh water pump pulley at the top and another of those brass valves beneath the pulley wheel, this is the one you want to use.  Alternatively, as I said you could undo either of the blue hoses that feed the calorfier but this won't drain all the fresh water from the system.

On top of the fresh water pump pulley is the thermostat housing and to the right of that is the electrical connection for the hot water warning buzzer in the cockpit and light, if yours still works.

On mine, and as I built three Rally cars in my youth and have a thing for engines, I've fitted a digital water temperature/ oil pressure gauge, the yellow sensor for the water temp is to the left.  See below.



This replacement of the control panel came about as the Yanmar tachometer became unreliable and last year packed up altogether.  I've also changed the poorly designed square key ignition switch for a much better type and no the red button at the bottom isn't for firing torpedos at the annoying motor cruisers.  The digital gauge has many functions and as such mine will be set so that prior to the correct levels being reached the readouts will be in purple, then go green as the correct levels are reached and then on to flashing red if upper limits are exceeded.  This will also set off the blue and orange lights in case your attention hasn't already been grabbed.




The hole is for the stop button of course.


Edited by JonB - 13 March 2019 at 22:23
Jon B
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Idratherbesailing View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Idratherbesailing Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 March 2019 at 09:50
Thanks again Jon.

I shall look at the front of mine at the next opportunity.  Thanks for taking the time and trouble with the explanation and pictures. 

I'll report back as I progress. 

George.
gpw
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