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Battery Problem

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Fendant View Drop Down
Admiral
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Joined: 03 November 2012
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fendant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2019 at 17:38
Dear Joey,
 
the Sterling VSR I have is the little red unit behind the battery.
Frank
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Joey D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joey D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2019 at 18:23
Preview attachment IMG_1492.jpg
Image






My boat is a 2014 and the unit looks different then what you show.
The unit I have is a Whisper Power Battery Link.  I assume it does the same thing but would not know how to test?
Thanks
Joe 


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Joey D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joey D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 February 2019 at 17:05
FYI, with your help and direction I learned a bit along the way. My 2014 Hanse 415 had a different ASR than you had indicated so there was no light to indicate working properly.  When I put a meter on the unit it was not getting enough power to close the circuit.  I found a fuse up by the Starting Battery that I didn't know existed.  I change the fuse and the ASR to a Blue Sea.  ALL GOOD NOW, both batteries are charging at 13.3......A HAPPY SAILOR AGAIN!

Thanks all  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pdc78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 July 2019 at 11:46
Hi Frank.  I did fit a battery guard per your advice, and all went well other than battling to refit the same large gauge cable into the Wago 769 plug on the Wurth panel.  
I have now also improved the ventilation to the fridge compressor.  The good news is that the fridge cabinet has been well insulated with foam when the boat was built (2016) so no scope to improve on that, but I was horrified to find that there was NO ventilation whatsoever. The fan was simply circulating air within a totally enclosed sealed void around the compressor.  I have now ducted the intake so that it draws air from the saloon seating area, and fitted a CPU fan to extract air into the storage cabinet below the oven - let's see - so far so good.
Anyway the key point of this post is to share my discovery that the compressor has been wired (C-P terminals linked) to give the lowest possible battery cut out voltage (9.6v) and that by fitting a 82k resistor between C-P you can change the Danfoss unit to cut out at 11.3v and cut in at 12.5v which is much less harmful to the AGM batteries we have on the 345.
This may be an alternative (cheaper) solution than the battery guard.
Thanks, Paul
H345 #269
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S&J View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote S&J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 July 2019 at 12:52
Interesting that you mention the resistor to adjust the compressor cutout.  I have recentlyy experienced strange behaviour with my fridge and in the course of trouble shooting I also found outabout this

I heard my fridge cycling on andoff and when I investigated found that the current was sitting at about 4-5awith the compressor running then the compressor seemed to stop and the current spiked briefly to 10-11A before dropping back to 4-5A with the compressor restarting. My battery monitorr reported 12.6V
The symptoms disappeared after fully charging the battery.  I did find corrosion on the connection from the width panel to compressor so I replaced the plug.  h

No furtherr issues but I wonder if anyone else has experienced similar?s


Edited by S&J - 06 July 2019 at 12:57
H458 #159 Primal Mediterranean cruising
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