Boom preventer

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   Has anyone come up with a good way to rig a boom preventer ? I am thinking about fixing (with soft ties) blocks to the mid cleats ? Not sure the pad eye in the centre of the deck - forward of the mast will be strong enough ?

Also, how do you cleat it ? Tie off on the aft cleats ?

Edited by Joseph_burke - 15 February 2023 at 19:22

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Joseph_burke Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Sub Lieutenant Joined: 23 November 2021 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 5	Post Options Post Reply Quote Joseph_burke Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Boom preventer Posted: 15 February 2023 at 19:20
	Has anyone come up with a good way to rig a boom preventer ? I am thinking about fixing (with soft ties) blocks to the mid cleats ? Not sure the pad eye in the centre of the deck - forward of the mast will be strong enough ? Also, how do you cleat it ? Tie off on the aft cleats ? Edited by Joseph_burke - 15 February 2023 at 19:22

landlocked Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commadore Joined: 12 April 2005 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 434	Post Options Post Reply Quote landlocked Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: 17 February 2023 at 18:50
	Hi Joseph, I have been thinking about a new setup for a preventer on my 400e so this is a good chance to present it for some feedback. I'm thinking of installing two lines on either side of the boom (red lines on the drawing), attached to the aft end of the boom (F) and temporarily tied near the gooseneck (A) - maybe rivet two small horn cleats there. These lines would have eye splices on the forward end. To rig the preventer I would run a second (green line) that is tied to the eye on the red line, runs forward through the opening in the base of the forward mooring cleat(C), across to the second forward mooring cleat, back around the midship cleat (D) to the winch (E) (or aft mooring cleat). To gybe I would untie the green line and run that (port) end of the green line aft, attaching the other (starboard) end of the green line to the second (starboard) red line. A few key features: - Can be rigged with boom fully out to leeward - Can be rigged from the mast (don't need to go forward of the mast) - Can be secured to the windward winch unless I'm using my pole, in which case I can use the stern cleat - One advantage of using the winch is that it can be quickly and easily released even under load - Red lines make handy clothes lines when moored! I've used a similar arrangement before but attached the preventer line to the forward cleat, which was not as convenient. I think it may be ok to run the lines through the cleats with no blocks because they would not have to be tightened under load, just "snugged up" and again I can use the winch to overcome a little friction. I do think you need to run the preventer line as far forward as possible to hold the boom forward, and am not so sure that attaching it to the midship cleat will work. Anyway, before I experiment with this setup next month I thought I'd float the "thought experiment" on the forum for feedback... Owen. Edited by landlocked - 17 February 2023 at 18:51
	"Kerkyra" 400e #042

kipwrite Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commadore Joined: 14 October 2015 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 375	Post Options Post Reply Quote kipwrite Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: 17 February 2023 at 22:12
	Have a very similar set up on a 505 that I've been using successfully for several years. A couple of differences from your proposal: I use just one line along the boom, your A line in the drawing. When we jibe, we just run it to the other side of the boom. It lives on the starboard side when at rest, tied off to a cleat on the mast, which also holds the B line when not in use. I keep a large soft shackle at the end of the A Line which facilitates a quick connection to the B line. The B line (Dyneema) is brought forward to the bow and is passed through a speed ring, that in turn is connected to two forward cleats by two Dyneema strops, each with generous loops spliced at the end. These loops are cow hitched to the cleats. This allows the B line to be centered mid ship just aft of the cleats, with the forces evenly distributed between the two forward cleats. I found that if this forward speed ring isn't centered, line B interferes with the lifelines. This forward speed ring is spliced into the Dyneema strops, so the whole package is quite secure. Takes just a moment to set it up between the bow cleats, which we do before we head offshore. The B line then runs aft through two additional speed rings connected to the midship starboard cleat, and then aft to the manual foreward winch. The system works well, though on my boat, the lower shrouds preclude the boom from being anything but fully eased or sheeted in maybe half way when the preventer is deployed. Otherwise the B line chafes against the shrouds - not good. Everything is done in Dyneema. The forces in a jibe would be enormous so I chose not to scrimp on materials. It's served me well and saved me more than once. I suppose you could use blocks but speed rings spliced to Dyneema seem the better choice. It is a bit fussy to jibe, but as you note everything can be done aft of the mast. Hope this helps. Edited by kipwrite - 18 February 2023 at 00:25
	Kipwrite

Interlude Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Captain Joined: 25 June 2005 Status: Offline Points: 203	Post Options Post Reply Quote Interlude Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: 17 February 2023 at 23:53
	On my 342 I have permanently rigged preventers running from the mid boom sheeting point through the mid ships cleats and back to the rear winches or to a cam cleat mounted on the vacant aft winch mounting plate. Possibly not a good idea if you are in the habit of dragging the boom end in the water at high speed with preventer on, but as a cruising sailor who reefs early I have had no problem with this. and you never need to leave the cockpit to apply or release.
	Interlude 342#241

Arcadia Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rear Admiral Joined: 27 November 2017 Location: Sag Harbor, USA Status: Offline Points: 533	Post Options Post Reply Quote Arcadia Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: 18 February 2023 at 02:56
	I also use a system like Interlude. Attaching at mid boom gives a very favorable angle for the preventer to a midship cleat or pad eye. It make for a much shorter line as well. I also put value on a simple set up for gybing.
	Leon / ARCADIA 2018 Hanse 588 Sag Harbor, NY

Martin&Rene Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Vice Admiral Joined: 06 December 2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 779	Post Options Post Reply Quote Martin&Rene Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 February 2023 at 15:28
	If you go through my thread, you will find out how I rig a boom preventer. I accept it is a system more for preventing gybes in shifty light winds rather than a heavy weather system. I have worked on the basis of designing a system that is easy to use then there is a chance you may actually use it. One mod since the pictures, is to have a 1.5m length of rope (dyneema, like the ropes down the boom) with 2 snaplinks on it to connect the boom preventer line to the barber hauler line. This makes it easier to set up and means, that in a tight situation, I can release the preventer and gybe the yacht without having to disconnect the preventer.
	Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland

Ratbasher Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commadore Joined: 31 May 2017 Location: Cyprus Status: Offline Points: 402	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ratbasher Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 February 2023 at 16:01
	I've never been comfortable with the boom held rigidly in place, especially in stronger winds and higher seas. Prefer a 'boom brake' rigged from mid-boom out to blocks rigged on lines from the midships cleats then back to the cockpit.
	H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard', post-refit sea trials, south coast UK

Dogscout Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commander Joined: 10 July 2017 Location: Wandering About Status: Offline Points: 132	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dogscout Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 February 2023 at 18:32
	I agree fully after having to go forward in heavy seas to swap sides n the preventer. A walder boom brake makes life so much easier.
	Adventure awaits

surfjoan Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Lieutenant Joined: 27 August 2019 Status: Offline Points: 22	Post Options Post Reply Quote surfjoan Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 March 2023 at 08:40
	I am thinking of installing a boom brake. Has anone done that on a 341 or 342? it requires 2 control lines but apart from that it seems like a good product to make uncontrolled gybes more controlled..

kuling73 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Sub Lieutenant Joined: 22 November 2014 Location: Gothenburg Status: Offline Points: 14	Post Options Post Reply Quote kuling73 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 March 2023 at 09:27
	Hi, I use an ordinary Super 8 with dynema 8mm line and low friction rings. It works very well. https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/super-8-belay-rappel-device/ Total cost about 90 euro. Edited by kuling73 - 10 March 2023 at 13:00
	/Best regards Håkan. Hanse 342 #477



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