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Cable routing? Mast to switchboard

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342Thor View Drop Down
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    Posted: 05 December 2022 at 00:27
I am installing new instruments in our H342 "Gwendoline Mary". I am having trouble routing the cable from the masthead unit back to the port side of the boat where the electronics will connect up. 

The existing wiring for the mast is taped in a bundle and wrapped.  After exiting the swan neck the whole bundle goes forward through the bulkhead right on the centreline, and into a passage in the ceiling lining of the front cabin. As far as I can tell, the passage is the wiring conduit.  The passage is as follows - In the forward cabin, the ceiling lining has a gutter moulded in it that runs along the rear edge of the lining where it meets the bulkhead. This gutter follows the aft edge of the ceiling lining all the way to the side of the boat. The gutter turns down the cabin wall and then goes back out under the deck and opens into the space that the cupboards cover up, and the bundle of wires exits here. It basically follows the dotted yellow line in this picture - but on the other (forward) side of this bulkhead.   


I have to run a new cable because I need more 2 more cores than the existing one has. I can’t use the existing cable to pull the new wire through - The wires are taped together and wrapped, and the bundle seems to have a loop inside the roof cavity so pulling along that path will not work.

I can get a cable, or a flexible plastic rod, along the channel up to the first corner only and then it comes to a stop. 

I dont think that the problem is getting around the corner per se. It could be that the rod gets caught on the existing cable wrapping or the cable bundle blocks the path on the way around.  But the channel also seems be filled with paper - almost like baking paper. Is this some type of thermal insulation, packing, boatbuilder’s lunch wrapper? 

So, before I cut out the bottom of channel in the ceiling lining to get access to the cable channel - I’ve got some questions: 

If you have successfully run a cable through this path  - how?

Are there alternative routes? - Maybe through the ceiling in the main cabin and down the wall. I didn't find a path between the outer cabin wall and inner liner?

Any other ideas?  

Thanks

Thor
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Johan Hackman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Johan Hackman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 December 2022 at 13:00
Hi Thor,

The way our boats were built was to make a hull and put cables and hoses on the bottom, then glass the keel frame and the furniture in place, then put another few cables and hoses on top of that and then glue the deck in place. The only thing you have to do to route your added cable from the mast to the panel is to remove the deck!

I other words, and this is my experience, it is impossible do run the cable the way you want.

I run the cable from the mast head unit inside the ceiling all the way back to the engine and then forward all the way to the speed sensor where it connects to a cable that goes under the sole to the panel.

Johan

Edited by Johan Hackman - 05 December 2022 at 13:00
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342Thor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 342Thor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 December 2022 at 22:53
Hi Johan

Yes that was my impression when I did the log/depth transducer. Luckily its wire had its own conduit under the sole, and I could use the old cable to pull the new cable. With my instruments both transducers have cables back to a common connection box which I will mount nearby the switchboard.

I went back to the boat last night and had another go at getting the masthead cable through. I would hate to admit to how many hours this has taken, but I have finally pulled the cable through the bulkhead channel without major surgery. 

In the end I cut the sikaflex out of the gap between the ceiling moulding and the bulkhead near the bottom corner under where the cabin side meets the deck.  Cutting out the sika gives some access to the side of the channel.  Then I got a thin and quite rigid fish-tape (wire-puller or whatever you want to call it) - 2mm x 5mm spring steel tape - and pushed it up into the gap from the bottom of the cabin wall (red arrow). It went up (through the brown paper layer - you can see some paper poking out of the gap in the picture) and around the top corner and along the roof all the way to the centreline. Then I hooked the end of the fish-tape and pulled it out of the hole behind the compression post.  I used that to pull a string back to the starting point. I then went the other way, which was easy - back into the same hole in the sika and out the end of the channel by the hull side (blue arrow). 

Then used the string to pull the wire through - which you can see in the pic.



Next step - wiring it all up

Thor








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Martin&Rene View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 December 2022 at 10:28
Well done.  

When I purchased my yacht from its previous owners, it had no masthead instruments.  Looking at the photos I have taken when I had had the mast removed, it looks like they found a route above the headlining in the main cabin down to the side of the hull and then back along above the cupboards.  I think the inside top of the cupboards can be removed. 


They must have found that void under the deck fairly clear, as they also installed all the wiring for the anchor windlass without taking the front cabin apart.

Do not forget to leave a mousing line in.

If you even need it, the negative bus bar is in that void under the deck above the cupboard to the rear of the switchboard cupboard.  Another well hidden by Hanse.  
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
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Joseph_burke View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joseph_burke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 December 2022 at 19:37
Cut a small access hole on the bulkhead on the cabin side - cut it exactly mid way across the door and between the door head and headlining(solid) in teh cabin - 2cm x 6cm. This will allow you to take the new cables into the forward cabin, then you will be able to push then down the cable run (not inside the conduit.) you can reach up for them if you open the forward SB cupboard and take out the little panel in the celing/top of the cupboard.
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