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Calira 331 instrument panel problem |
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Havhuldra 
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Joined: 29 September 2022 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 19 |
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 Topic: Calira 331 instrument panel problemPosted: 01 May 2023 at 19:03 |
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When I bought our boat (320 2008) last fall, the anchor winch, along with a good number other stuff, did not work.
I have finally worked my way down the list to the anchor winch, and after teaching my kids a few select new words not to be repeated in front of the wife, I found that the winch works just fine! the 12V supply to the switch on the Calira panel has no 12V.... zero on the voltmeter... When switched on, of course nothing happens, no green ligth, no nothing. Same goes for the switch below, for optional thruster All supply wires comes in one gigantic bundle from the same connector, with one wire for each switch, No 10 are electric deck winch No 11 are the anchor winch No 12 are thruster Our boat dont have electric deck winch or thruster, and the deck winch and anchor winch swithces are both rated 5A, I simply switched the output harness from no 10 to the winch harness, (SX 1 and SX2 harness) and the anchor winch works, but I now have to switch on breaker no 10 instead of 11. No biggie, but I still would like to find out what caused it, and if I risk the same to happen to other switches. Anybody had any experience with similar?
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Havhuldra
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Joined: 29 September 2022 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 19 |
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Posted: 01 May 2023 at 19:07 |
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I forgot a important detail; the 12V supply from switch no. 11 goes to the controls, and then to the contactor, it is not the power supply to the winch, just the controls. But no power on the controls, no signal to the contactor etc....
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landlocked
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Joined: 12 April 2005 Location: Canada Status: Online Points: 432 |
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Posted: 01 May 2023 at 19:42 |
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I have the same Calira 331 panel on my 2006 400e (though I think all Calira 331 panels are not really the same). There is a relay to enable power to the windlass controls, which is energized only when the engine is running (alternator is charging). This is to prevent you from deep-discharging the battery during windlass use. If you don't have any 12v power to the windlass controls it could be (1) your engine is not running or (2) the line from the alternator is open. On my boat there is a fuse where the relay control line connects to the alternator and this fuse holder became corroded, which would lead to the same symptoms you reported (no 12v on the windlass breaker switch). You could start at your alternator and look for a fused line heading forward to the control panel. Check to see if the fuse is blown or corroded.
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"Kerkyra" 400e #042
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Havhuldra
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Joined: 29 September 2022 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 19 |
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Posted: 01 May 2023 at 19:59 |
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It did not make any difference if the engine were running or not, still the line from alternator may be open. Will do the check you propose.
However, it looks to me like all supply wires to all swithces originates from one big bundle, in turn connected to a thick supply cable. Thanks for the advice.
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landlocked
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Joined: 12 April 2005 Location: Canada Status: Online Points: 432 |
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Posted: 01 May 2023 at 20:14 |
Yes but on the back of the switch panel there is a relay, and the windlass supply passes through that relay before going to the windlass switch. I believe the relay is the one I circled in the attached photo. It should be connected to the switch, the 12v supply, and the control line from the alternator (possible via the circuit board on the back of the panel).
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"Kerkyra" 400e #042
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Havhuldra
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Joined: 29 September 2022 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 19 |
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Posted: 01 May 2023 at 21:24 |
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Many thanks. I cannot remember to have seen a relay on my panel, will definetely check!
Will also take a photo and try to upload.
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landlocked
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Joined: 12 April 2005 Location: Canada Status: Online Points: 432 |
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Posted: 02 May 2023 at 00:25 |
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If you find a corroded fuse holder on a wire near the alternator that might give you the quickest answer. Mine failed at about year 10 so the relay stayed open even when the engine was running.
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"Kerkyra" 400e #042
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Captain Cook
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Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 875 |
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Posted: 02 May 2023 at 20:52 |
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In "Advanced Search/any date" you can find this: https://www.myhanse.com/anchor-windlass_topic10536_post99300.html?KW=anchor+winch#99300 https://www.myhanse.com/windlass-contactor_topic13296_page1.html?KW=anchor+winch https://www.wesailhanse.se/370_documents/370_documents_hanse/hanse370_08_electric_installation_cabellist_20-07-2005_de_en.pdfwww.wesailhanse.se is a webside managed by Marco, owner of a H370, but H320 and H400 owners can find cable diagrams and other interesting things there. :Kjeld
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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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Havhuldra
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Joined: 29 September 2022 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 19 |
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Posted: 02 May 2023 at 21:55 |
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Hi All!
Landlocked`s advice were spot on!  tucked beneath the starter motor I found a fuseholder, with a blown fuse. Replaced it - problem solved! thanks also to Captain Cook. Still a bit annoyed that this is not included in the boat wiring diagram...
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landlocked
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Joined: 12 April 2005 Location: Canada Status: Online Points: 432 |
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Posted: 25 May 2023 at 13:27 |
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Glad this worked out.
Incidentally, I am planning to add an “override” switch that will bypass this relay and allow the windlass to be operated when the engine is not running. It occurred to me that in the case of an engine failure I may want to drop anchor, depending on the situation, and the relay would prevent me from using the windlass for that. The windlass doesn’t draw so much power when lowering the anchor and I’d rather be able to use it rather than manually drop anchor in that situation, especially if the need is urgent!
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"Kerkyra" 400e #042
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Havhuldra wrote: