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Code 0 Halyard Rigging |
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plattgatt
Captain Joined: 22 December 2010 Location: Germany Status: Offline Points: 175 |
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[QUOTE=Zigeuner]
Hallo alle meine hilfreichen Berater. Ich habe das Fall so verlegt, dass es nur durch die obere Fairlead geführt wird. Rollen ist glatt und einfach! Erfolg. Das Segel sitzt auch parallel zur Fock. Ich werde sicherstellen, dass das Achterstag gespannt ist, und die Auswirkungen auf den Mast während des Gebrauchs beobachten. Ich bezweifle, dass während meiner alleinigen Verwendung irgendetwas sichtbar sein wird ... vielleicht ist es eine andere Geschichte, wenn ich die 'Cowboys' an einem schweren Tag an Bord einlade. Wie auch immer, es gibt eindeutig die Möglichkeit, einen reibungsarmen Ring an einem Riemen der unteren Seilrolle anzubringen, um ein ähnliches Ergebnis zu erzielen, wenn ich mir Sorgen um die Mastspannungen mache. Ich habe den Stift auch etwa 25 cm nach unten fallen lassen. Experimentieren Sie immer noch, um ein Verheddern mit Fockrollreffanlage oder Anker zu vermeiden. Vielen Dank an alle, die sich die Zeit genommen haben, Kommentare abzugeben und mir bei der Lösung meines Problems zu helfen. [/ZITIEREN] |
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370#641 "aqua d`or"
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H8jer
Admiral Joined: 14 September 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1347 |
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HI
I am about to order a 2-1 code0 halyard. Could anyone that already has a two-to-one halyard assist me in getting the length right? PekkaL are you here? 😀 My current spinaker/genaker halyard is 41 meters, but 40 should be enough. I imagine that adding 16 meters to that number and I will be on the safe side. Is 57 meters correct? /H8jer
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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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H8jer
Admiral Joined: 14 September 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1347 |
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Hi Talking to myselves again I have now used my 57m and it is the correct length
Edited by H8jer - 20 May 2022 at 16:06 |
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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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PekkaL
Commander Joined: 01 January 2005 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 92 |
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I finally managed to get a photo of my set-up...
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Pekka Leppanen, "Vedette"
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H8jer
Admiral Joined: 14 September 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1347 |
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Hi PekkaL
This is also my current setup with 2-1 halyard, but my Code0 must be larger than yours. I need to pull the top swirwl so it touched both the block and my knot at the eye. The top of the Code0 is not turning freely but touches the headsail. When turning the Code0 furler the Code0 sail dont turn, but it builds up tension and then it starts to spin some revolutions and then stop again. I have decided to not use the Code0 this season and then mount a bracket some 20-50cm above the current location of the Block. The bracket I intend to install is requiring that a series of holes are drilled into the mast and then joined to a 'channel' the can hold this 2-part bracket. Do you have the same issues? /H8jer
Edited by H8jer - 23 July 2022 at 19:20 |
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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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PekkaL
Commander Joined: 01 January 2005 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 92 |
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As you maybe can see from the photo I took, the code 0 halyard returns to the mast through a block that's connected to the eyelet through a ≈10 cm dyneema loop.
The accidental by-product is that it lifts the code 0 forward by 5 cm or so, thus it is clear of the head sail and rotates freely. The downwards force is still almost vertical & sideways loads remain at the eyelet, so I do not imagine it producing any significant sideways loads to the top of the the mast. Maybe you could use something similar to get a few centimeters separation between the code and head sails? |
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Pekka Leppanen, "Vedette"
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H8jer
Admiral Joined: 14 September 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1347 |
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Hi PekkaL
Thx. I will try to a add a dyneema loop and try this before ordering a new bracket for the mast. so there might go some weeks before I am any wiser. btw. My Gran-Segel 60m2 Code0 55.6% has SLU of 15.29m. I measured the mast to have the spinaker-haleyard exiting the pad-eye at a height at 14.71m. Length from the old bow-spit to the mast foot is 4.45m. With the new bowsprit is 4,75m With Pythagoras (approx. 90 degree mast rake) this gives a SLU of 15.37m / 15.45m with the new bowsprit. This only leaves room for 16 cm for my block in the 2-1 haleyard and the shackle. I have not controlled the SLU of the sail to see if it is really 15.29m. But I have issues getting it pulled thight. I will have to find a tough very-small block with built-in shackle or some other combination to minimize the wasted length. This is how it looks today after I moved away from a quick-snap shackle. But no I need pliers everytime I want to remove the halyard Edited by H8jer - 25 July 2022 at 11:00 |
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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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sgrhma2
Commander Joined: 20 November 2021 Location: Northern Irelan Status: Offline Points: 99 |
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I have run my asymmetric and code zero for years from the top lead eye. I’ve also recently had a new asymmetric made after the old one exploded dramatically. The new one has a lot of additional area low down due to the additional luff length and as such is a more powerful sail. On the plus side there is little additional heeling due to the additional area being in the lower part of the sail. I’ve had the halyard rigged like this for 12 years or so with no issues and wouldn’t dream of moving to the lower eye again.
Simon
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H8jer
Admiral Joined: 14 September 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1347 |
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Ok.
I desided to go with a new Code0 bracket from Sparcraft. With a Rocna Anchor the original bowsprit is not long enough. The furler hits the anchor. So I built a DIY bowsprit with a fixed rod to an eyebolt in the bow. We have a strict rule not to use the screecher in above 5m/s = 10 knot = beaufort 3. Otherwise the boat is overpowered and the comfort suffers. Also at that wind the selftacker jib is ok. Edited by H8jer - 24 December 2023 at 07:31 |
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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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sgrhma2
Commander Joined: 20 November 2021 Location: Northern Irelan Status: Offline Points: 99 |
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H8jer, I have a similar setup to your bowsprit using a tie rod attached to the standard bowsprit for better vertical support. However I want to lengthen it this winter to better clear my anchor as you have. I’m very interested in how you have attached your new one but can’t quite make out how you’ve done it. Does it still slot into the standard square recess that the original used or have you located it over the outside of the square location box and used the bolt to clamp it to the underside and give better horizontal stability.
I’d be very interested in a bit of an explanation of the fitting to the bow and some close up photos if you have them. Thanks Simon
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