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Jeffa Autopilot Failure

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kipwrite View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kipwrite Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2022 at 17:22
I'd suggest using the tiller arm from the old auto pilot. Much simpler than messing around with pins.

With just a bit of coaxing it should lift off. 

Kipwrite
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SVZara View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SVZara Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2022 at 10:04
Capt Cook, Do you have a dual autopilot setup?  What is the other arm?

Edited by SVZara - 28 May 2022 at 10:05
Marc
S/V Zara
2016 Hanse 505, Hull #129
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Captain Cook View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2022 at 20:17
My 400 is the old model with a single steering wheel. The arm (draglink) to the left is from the wheel to the rudder, and to the right the arm goes from DD1 to the top of the rudder.
Jefa recommends the DD1 to boats from 30 to 45 feet. It seems that Hanse uses DD1 for larger boats. Jefa sells larger models than DD1, check their homepage. The larger models are more expensive, so one can imagine the reason for Hanse to choose a smaller model.
In fact I do have a kind of dual autopilot setup. I have a Raymarine wheelpilot mounted on the wheel, and a control unit and course computer which also are used for the DD1. By a simple toggle switch I choose between the DD1 and the wheelpilot.
My wheelpilot is meant for boats < 37 feet, so it is a bit on the small side.




Edited by Captain Cook - 28 May 2022 at 20:25
Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tobo2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2022 at 15:07
We had to replace our 3 years old DD1 on a new 508 (2020) as the holding of the arm on the AP was totally worn out. (s. pic) There was a play of of about 5 degrees to both sides. After failures in 2021 it was serviced (new axe, new clutch) and now failed again just after one sailing season, mostly in the Med and without any stormy conditions.
Hanse sent us a new AP that was installed by the mecanics in Kos according to the specs of Jefa. But it turned out that positioning the ram on the outer hole of the tiller arm on the quadrant could block the steering when turning it fully as the the AP will be in a dead angle. It is clear that this could produce very dangerous situations when manouvering in a harbour and turning the wheel to the maximum! To be on the safe side the mecanics put the ram on the inner hole. (s. pic). I think that 508 owners should check their setup of the AP.



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Arcadia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Arcadia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2022 at 19:44
FYI. That set up is asymmetrical.  The pilot drive will work differently to port than it will to starboard. The force applied will not be constant, nor will the speed of the turn.  Both tiller arms need to be parallel to each other. This can be done by adjusting the length of the drag link.
Leon / ARCADIA
2018 Hanse 588
Sag Harbor, NY
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Matt1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2022 at 20:35
I confess I haven't read all this thread, but there are widespread reports of Hanse not assembling the draglink in the way Jefa intended, including on my 418 where my dealer kindly moved the drag link from the inboard, to the outboard hole (as per Jefa's build card). Jefa claim that the outer hole reduces the demand on the drive unit but for some reason Hanse seem to favour the inboard hole.

Jefa are very helpful - I wouldn't make changes without getting their opinion or referring to the build card (which they were happy to send me)
Hanse 418 #64 EmBer. Hamble, UK

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SVZara View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SVZara Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 October 2022 at 16:00
Originally posted by Arcadia Arcadia wrote:

FYI. That set up is asymmetrical.  The pilot drive will work differently to port than it will to starboard. The force applied will not be constant, nor will the speed of the turn.  Both tiller arms need to be parallel to each other. This can be done by adjusting the length of the drag link.

I dont quite understand what you mean.  Can you be more specific.  I put in yellow lines to his image.  Is this what you mean?


Marc
S/V Zara
2016 Hanse 505, Hull #129
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Arcadia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Arcadia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 October 2022 at 16:18
Yes but not exactly. Your bottom yellow line should pass from the rudder shaft to the bolt of the drag link attachment. Same on the top yellow line. From the center of the drive shaft to the drag link bolt.
Leon / ARCADIA
2018 Hanse 588
Sag Harbor, NY
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Arcadia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Arcadia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 October 2022 at 16:20
Also, you need to do a rudder sensor calibration which is in the set up menu. If you make these changes, send a photo so I can verify.
Leon / ARCADIA
2018 Hanse 588
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SVZara View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SVZara Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 October 2022 at 19:05
My boat has been put away for the season.  I do have the yard making the change to put the connection to the outer hole for one of my winter projects.  I will send them instructions about aligning.  They were already planning on redoing the sensor calibration as well.

Thanks for the clarification.
Marc
S/V Zara
2016 Hanse 505, Hull #129
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