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Amp hours and voltage |
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Joey D
Commander Joined: 27 June 2018 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 82 |
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Posted: 06 January 2019 at 14:05 |
Would anyone we able to advise the proper number setting for the digital multi control on my Victron Energy board?
I always leave the unit switched to on with a setting of 22. Truly appreciate the help Edited by Joey D - 08 January 2019 at 22:11 |
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High Time
Vice Admiral Joined: 04 September 2012 Location: Portsmouth UK Status: Offline Points: 798 |
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Hi Jeremy Did you 'find' the last 0.1A discharge? If not then it could be that the zero reading on the monitor has not been set correctly. Some monitors (my Victron included) have a parameter for the zero current reading (in/out) that can be adjusted. Might be worth checking if your monitor can be adjusted for this. It is worth setting this correctly if possible, otherwise over time when the boat is not in use, the amp hours consumed can be way out. 0.1A per hour = 2.4Ah per day = 72Ah per month
Edited by High Time - 06 September 2018 at 13:00 |
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Roger
High Time (415 #038) |
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Mike2145
Captain Joined: 18 October 2014 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 268 |
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Just to answer the original question of the relationship between V and Ah. The short answer is none directly, its a % of the total so unless you know the total available Ah of the battery you cant say what % in Ah remains or has been used. The voltage drops at a predictable rate (for a battery in reasonable condition) and therefore at certain voltages we can say that the battery is at x% charge. The list below is a reasonable, if a bit pessimistic, set of numbers to work from. So we can say that when the battery is at 12.6v its about 50% discharged. So in your case the 330Ah total has used 115Ah. (the 330 would be very optimistic even for a new battery) NOTE: These voltage readings should be taken off load and after the battery has rested. The voltage will reduce when on load giving false reading. So measure when there is no or minimal load to get a rough idea of the state of charge. If the battery is showing 11.9 with minimal or no load then they are flat. Ignore the battery monitor. The advantage of a good (expensive!!) monitor is that it will be able to do some cleaver maths, using a set of numbers similar to below, to start to work out what the actual capacity of the battery bank given charge/discharge amps is and give a readout of available capacity and state of discharge in a Ah or % display as long as the thing is set up correctly. However,for that money I can do the maths myself! Hope that helps? |
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Cant take a joke, don't buy a boat.
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Jeremy
Commander Joined: 28 February 2018 Location: Auckland NZL Status: Offline Points: 91 |
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Yes thanks for that. Im not going to track down the last 0.1A of loss. Just put it down to those items. It seems everything is functioning properly again now with new batteries and property set up monitor.
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Jeremy
Commander Joined: 28 February 2018 Location: Auckland NZL Status: Offline Points: 91 |
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Hi,
Yes Ive inputted the correct perkets number. This seems to have improved ah accuracy. I took the new batteries for a test run last night. Seems we use about 50ah over night and in the morning were on about 12.7V to 12.8V. This was verified by the multi meter. Thanks!!
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Rubato
Admiral Joined: 12 July 2006 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1791 |
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If you don't keep shore power attached to trickle charge your batteries, the trickle charge needs to come from somewhere else (possibly solar as you mentioned above). Lead acid batteries in particular have a fairly high rate of self discharge which can also destroy battery life.
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Steve
Hanse 400e, #168 |
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StavrosNZ
Rear Admiral Joined: 24 October 2014 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 556 |
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agreed Mike, smart regulator and cable sized for higher output and battery bank accordingly. Also replaced shore power charger at the same time with new Pro Mariner Pro Nautic charger that also has ability to act as power supply to the boat sockets without charging as setting.
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Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand |
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Mike2145
Captain Joined: 18 October 2014 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 268 |
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Remember adding a high capacity alternator on its own will have little or no advantage. It need to be coupled with. Charger and battery bank that can make use of the available power. Most smart chargers can do this but do check. I’ve seen many high output alternators fitted without updating the downstream components. And it’s made no difference. The rating is the maximum it ‘can’ produce not what it will. It is the charger and battery pack that determines what will be generated by the alternator the alternator can only do what it’s asked to do up to it’s rated ability. Matching what the battery bank can accept at a maximum charge rate controlled by the charger (plus other ancillaries) with what the the rated output of the alternator is the key (plus a bit to keep the stess down on the system) is the key. Have a look at other threads on the subject there is a lot of information on this and other forums. Ignore me if you already know all this stuff! Mike |
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Cant take a joke, don't buy a boat.
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StavrosNZ
Rear Admiral Joined: 24 October 2014 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 556 |
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stereo has permanent power to retain stations, bilge pump, one overhead light normally and alternator smart regulator likely to have permanent supply as well.
Solar properly regulated will keep these looses accounted for and batteries topped up but an efficient alternator/regulator remains best most efficient way to keep your charging up. Don't leave shore power on permanently either in my experience this reduces battery life and increases risk of other issues (electrolysis etc).
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Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand |
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StavrosNZ
Rear Admiral Joined: 24 October 2014 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 556 |
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Jeremy, i did a post on the upgrade as follows:
http://www.myhanse.com/alternator-upgrade_topic10185.html |
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Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand |
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