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Captain Cook
Admiral Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1008 |
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Posted: 14 April 2020 at 11:49 |
Hi Nigel When I use the search function, I see that I already answered most of your questions in february: I wrote: "With regards to the old compressor, you can cut off the tubes
inside the fridge, and seal the holes with a two-component putty, or
leave enough tube protuding, so you can solder two small "hats" in the
end. Then you could leave the old compressor in place, and forget about
it. Read the earlier posts here on myhanse about the subject. I know that Angelina has mounted a new system, with the new compressor placed under the seats in front of the fridge. " As I have said before, I do not recommend to dismantle the pantry if you want to use the materials again. As you can read in my earlier posts, I have made a hole for access to the compressor, so I have experience in trying to save the materials for reuse. I also rebuilt the bed in the master cabin, and also here the wood was glued together so dismantling was very time consuming, and only by luck I saved so much, that I could rebuild the bed with the old materials. In the post above I recommend to remove the evaporator, and let the old compressor stay, and then install a new evaporator with a compressor under the seat in front of the pantry. This is still my best advice. Use the search function for more posts about the fridge. About regas, search "R134a" in the 400 forum. Advanced search of course. The fresh water/shower pump is under the seat in the shower cabin. It has a screw-on filter that needs to be cleaned at intervals. Beside it is a drain pump to the shower with a filter too. If you are tired of cleaning this filter, do like me, and buy a Gulper filterless pump. Check your deck shower rubber hose beneath the deck, it may have a kink there. The photos of the 370 in construction are still available at: The BananAlbum I believe that Hans Leijnse has sold his Hanse, so the photos may be gone some day. If you want to be sure to dispone of them in the future, you can make screen-dumps. :Kjeld Edited by Captain Cook - 15 April 2020 at 11:55 |
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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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Nigel
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 30 November 2018 Location: West Australia Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Hello Captain Cook,
I'm in Western Australia and have a 400e built to survey - I bought it second hand. The fridge ice box doesn't work ..I found a small hole in the iso plate. I've spoken to the refrigeration technician and he says it cant be welded/ soldered . In short I have to replace the unit which means removing the sink/fridge cabinet . The shipwright has looked at it and says it's not too difficult just fiddly and time consuming. Hanse don't think of maintinence when they build - it's IMPOSSIBLE to get to the compressor unit without removing the galley !How can you regas? I saw in one of your posts you had photos of the boat during construction ... how can I get these photos?Where is the shower pump? My deck shower is a trickle and there's no kinks in the line Thank you for any help Nigel from Satchmo
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Fendant
Admiral Joined: 03 November 2012 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 1617 |
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My boat is listing 3-4 deg. to port:
a) Batteries 100 kg b) 3 kw inverter 40 kg c) Holding tank 80 ltr 90 kg d) Grey water tank 120ltr 130 kg e) Various Stuff in Locker 100 kg This loads the port side with 460 kg - 150 ltr diesel= 310 KG = two well built crew members on port deck. You need to store 3oo kg of beer and wine on the starboard side to compensate Edited by Fendant - 05 December 2019 at 15:49 |
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Frank
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Captain Cook
Admiral Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1008 |
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As I recall, I drilled through 2 longship beams, about between the red and blue lines on the photo. Drilling in the transverse beam will give you the task of first putting a thin wire from hole to hole, and then using this wire to help the cable along. For this I recommend a hole of at least 30 mm. In one of my other posts I have written about feeding the fridge with a 25 mm2 cable from my batteries in front of the sink. This due to a voltage drop in the thin cable mounted by Hanse.
Edited by Captain Cook - 04 December 2019 at 09:23 |
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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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Bergen
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 18 December 2018 Location: Bergen, Norway Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Open up some of the floor- boards today, and can confirm that this is difficult without craking the screws.
However, regarding the holes for the cables. Did you drilled holes throug all 3 longship beams (as described in red), or is it possible to drill into the top of the transverse beam marked blue and have the cable inside this beam??
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Bergen
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 18 December 2018 Location: Bergen, Norway Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Thank you for your detailed reply and an informative picture (even if I was hoping for a quick fix).
I will search for the cable-duct before starting any drilling. In fact, I live only 400m from a Biltema store here in Bergen, and your tips regarding purchasing cables her is also appreciated.
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Captain Cook
Admiral Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1008 |
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There is no way but the hard way. I drilled twin holes through the fibreglass structure. As I recall, I used an 18mm drill. You will need to remove two plywood floor-boards, to gain access. I recommend to use WD40 around the stainless screws before un-screwing, and a bit of vaseline in the holes, before mounting the screws again. The stainless screws are of a poor quality, if they do not crack, they are likely to be deformed, so the screwdriver will not be able to turn them. In theory there should be a cable-duct from around the el-panel to under the sink, but if you find it, it is likely that the workers at the yard have tied it up with plastic-strips, thereby making it impossible for the cables to pass a 90 degrees bend. This item is mentioned in other threads. In this picture there seems to be a black cable-duct. Check under the sink before you drill holes. I just used Sikaflex to fill the drilled holes around the cables, to secure that the cables do not move, and thereby be prone to damage by movement. A professional would use a rubber bushing. I just borrowed a photo from another member, so you can see the strainers under the floor. P.S. If you gave a few informations on your profile, I would know if you lived near Biltema in Bergen, Norway, and thereby recommend the 50 mm2 cables they sell in 6 meters lenghts. Edited by Captain Cook - 01 December 2019 at 02:01 |
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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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Martin&Rene
Vice Admiral Joined: 06 December 2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 833 |
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Ratbasher
It is very easy to install a non-return valve just after the shower pump and that stops the water from the anti-syphon loop flowing back into the shower tray. Just add a 10cm length of hose between pump and the valve and use the original hose on the other end of the valve. Using a shower scraper to clear the water is easier than using a cloth.
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Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
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Bergen
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 18 December 2018 Location: Bergen, Norway Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Hi Captain Cook. I am also looking for placing additional batteries on stb side to reduce the list, but I am struggling to find a way for the cablings from the old battery locker over to stb side. Can you describe your solution for this?
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jeb
Captain Joined: 05 May 2014 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 225 |
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I found some more pictures and a English description here: http://wesailhanse.se/370_improvements_by_others.htm (scroll down). That homepage has a lot of really nice stuff for Hanse 370/400 owners. Regarding price for FlexiTeak 1 M2 is around 180$ in Sweden + Glue and the frame material (maybee 50€ for frame material) if you cut it your self. If you order it pre-cutted it should not be more than +50%. So I guess cost will end up around 200-300€.
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Jesper
Hanse 400e |
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