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Rigging the reaching pulley? |
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SVZara
Captain Joined: 04 November 2018 Location: Boston, MA Status: Offline Points: 196 |
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Posted: 23 March 2020 at 03:02 |
I was wondering how you guys were rigging the reaching block on the rail near the jib tacker track? How is this line attached to the clew? Do rig both sides (port/sbd) at the same time? Do you run the line back to the cockpit to the primary winch? Do you find this improves the jib performance when reaching? At what point to start to use it? What AWA/TWA?
Edited by SVZara - 24 March 2020 at 08:24 |
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Martin&Rene
Vice Admiral Joined: 06 December 2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 833 |
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Interesting to hear you have some form of reaching attachment, as I have talked to the Hanse UK agents a number of times on the fact that Hanse needs to do something to counter all the various articles in magazines about yachts with self-tacking jibs being poor downwind.
The problem is that if you just ease a standard self tacking jib, then it starts to twist off a lot. You either end up setting the bottom half of the jib, in which case the top half flogs quite violently sometimes, or you set the top half of the jib in which case the bottom half is over-sheeted. An acquaintance did look at adding extra reaching sheets to his 341 as he does a lot of racing round the cans, but fairly quickly he took to switching to a genoa. If you want to go this way, then it is worth considering that the loads will be much lighter than when the jib is pulled in tight upwind and so lighter sheets (dyneema) could be used. My solution was to use barber haulers on the self tacking jib. I described it here: I also described it in another thread "I have permanent barber hauler lines set up mounted off the toe rail and run back down the yacht to a pulley mounted so that I can them tension them on the coaming winches. When needed, I use a snatch block to attach the relevant barber hauler to the bottom part of the jib sheet system. So when off the wind, if I do a major change to the jib sheet then I will also adjust the barber hauler, all done quickly from the cockpit. My newer jib has 3 vertical battens and that has certainly helped the sail to set well. I did not go for much of an increase in sail area,as I wanted to be certain the self tacker did not foul the radar reflector. One thought for the future would be to use one of those floating bullseyes that you see on some other yachts and then you could possibly set a barber hauler system that was permanently attached. When gybing down wind, I have sometimes have fastened the block on to both barber hauler lines and just tighten the appropriate one. Having a block, I do not do this often, as I am worried if the block hits the forehatch, but also since I often store my dinghy there, than the lines tend to catch on it. I do not see it as a major problem, at it only takes a few seconds to switch the snatch block from one barber hauler line to the other. " As to when do we use it. My newer jib, with vertical battens, will set ok in light winds, less than 6kts. Above that, I put the barber hauler on when we are more than about 10deg off upwind sailing. As the wind moves aft, I will pull it further down, until the sheet starts running over the guard rails. With my earlier jib, I used to actually pull down both parts of the self-tacker jib sheet. The barber hauler lines on my yacht run through holes in the base of the stanchion, but as a trial, you could just run them outside the stanchions.
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Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
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Tranquillity
Captain Joined: 01 December 2018 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 224 |
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Hi, A simple solution we use is to, keep a block with a short loop tail on it that we rig on the centre cleat when reaching then run a sheet from the clew through this to the primary winches.
Really recommended when reaching off the wind as creates a far better sail shape with far less twist. Cheers, Jon. |
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SVZara
Captain Joined: 04 November 2018 Location: Boston, MA Status: Offline Points: 196 |
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Do you have any photos of this setup?
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samuel
Admiral of the Fleet Joined: 26 December 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2683 |
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Sometimes I rig 2 barber haulers from the clew through a block on the deck each side vertically below the clew & back to the winches at the back of the cockpit.They just hang slack until I need them. It is a neat & tidy system. I hate "lash ups" with rough knots & excess strings. If I forget, & cannot be bothered to rig them & I am on a long leg, then I bring the cruising chute down haul back round the block at the bow, where it is permanently stowed, to the point of the deck then up to the clew. That can be tensioned from the cabin top as one would tension the clew down haul. If I tack, I slacken it off & move the ring over. to the other side. The friction ring sits on the downhaul with a dynema loop all the time ready to use. It does not affect the operation of the chute as it just slides on the line.
Edited by samuel - 04 April 2020 at 16:29 |
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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Tranquillity
Captain Joined: 01 December 2018 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 224 |
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Hi, Unfortunately I don't have any pictures and sadly, probably like most if us, won't be on the boat any time soon in current situation. The solution we use for reaching is to take a sheet from the clew on the self tacker down to a block on the middle mooring cleat led back to primary winch. We also tend to route it via another block (spinnaker sheet block ) on the rail level with winch to keep it tidy but this is optional. To connect the block on the middle cleat we use a 6" loop on the block that secured to cleat when needed. Hope this helps?
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415 Singapore
Vice Admiral Joined: 23 September 2013 Location: Singapore Status: Offline Points: 826 |
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Hi, we rig a snatch block to the lowest part of the cap shroud bottle screw and use the spinnaker sheet initially as a barber hauler if on a close reach then as the sheet if further off the wind. We tried the middle mooring cleat as it is an easier fixing point, but found that it still left the leach very open.
By keeping both jib and spinnaker sheets attached you can fine tune the sail shape very easily. All the best Paul
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Paul - Night Train - 415 #136
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Relentless
Commander Joined: 17 April 2018 Status: Offline Points: 132 |
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I simply run a single line (barber hauler)from the clue to a block or low friction ring connected to the forward padeye on the bullworks. Then lead it back to the secondary winch. Normally, I'm on a reach for several hours so no need to connect both sides. And if it is a short sail, I might not worry about it at all. If the sea is rolly and the jib car slams from side to side, then I rig something...first as a preventor to stop the car for sliding...then once rigged, I ease the jib sheet and trim with barber hauler. I connect the barber hauler with a bowline. I leave the jib sheet attached because this helps me bring the clue in tight and under control when I work on the barber hauler line. Here are some video clips of relentless sailing in a gale downwind. If you look carefully, you might see a few frames of how this is done.
https://youtu.be/-1_PpIVxS3c https://youtu.be/xny_FvcO5pc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnYFhztEjLo Hope this helps! |
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Matt1
Rear Admiral Joined: 10 March 2019 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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Nice videos Rob. I'd assumed the pad eye on the bullworks was for that purpose and had asked about it on our handover sail. Clearly it was strong enough in the conditions you were encountering ;-) She seemed to be making light work of it
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Hanse 418 #64 EmBer. Hamble, UK
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