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508: Windlass Size |
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tobo2
Captain Joined: 14 February 2014 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 260 |
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Posted: 29 April 2020 at 10:26 |
As Hanse notoriously mounts windlasses that are just for "normal" anchoring situations, we decided to exchange it (Standard: Quick 1000W 12V). 30'000 miles and 11 years of Med anchorage experiences told us to install a windlass for heavy duty situations. (Ever tried to find the thermal switch of the overloaded windlass in pitch black night when the wind is blowing your yacht too close to the beach?) We made mounting a Lewmar CPX4 2000 W 24 V type with an independant line drum (i.e. to pull mooring lines). (If anybody is interested in the brandnew original Quick 1000W 12V windlass with 60m chain including cables and remote control unit let me know per PM. It perfectlyworks with a 45ft -12 tons yacht, i.e. the 458 or smaller). Experiences also told us not to solely rely on the integrated chain counter. I therefore marked the chain with the normal colored plastic pieces and added the colored cable ties for better view. To remember the length markings I put a sticker next to the windlass. And by the way: 60m of chain mostly is too short! We ordered 100m. Foot switches for up/down and a wireless remote control unit gives you an independant operation option. Edited by tobo2 - 02 May 2020 at 08:55 |
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kipwrite
Commadore Joined: 14 October 2015 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 408 |
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Nice job.
It occurred to me I have no idea where the thermal switch is on my windlass. Going to check that out. |
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Kipwrite
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tobo2
Captain Joined: 14 February 2014 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 260 |
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Ups, you better find out before you are in an emergency situation! But you won't find it close to the windlass. The switch sits on the powerboard below the navtable (open the cover). It must be F8-2. The bad news is that it is not a switch but a thermal fuse you have to replace with tools. The time to replace it - let's say 10 min. - could cost you your yacht as you can not maneuvre the boat during the repair time. So I would replace it in first place! This is an unexcusable false and dangerous installation of Hanse! But maybe it's better to buy a stronger windlass first to avoid this. I have seen too many boats in troubles because the windlass didn't work. Edited by tobo2 - 29 April 2020 at 18:25 |
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Wild
Vice Admiral Joined: 18 March 2010 Location: Turkey-Greece Status: Offline Points: 784 |
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I can't believe this
the people who make something like this deserve the bullet. Things getting worse and worse wiht Hanse and other boatbuilders. Tobo , I see that you have change the wires to feet the winch(2000 watt 24V) ??? How big is the org fuse and wire? the size of the org. wire seems to small to me( a 50 feet yacht= min 20 meter wire and 1.000 watt 12V ?) so far I can see on the picture. The powerboard I guess MADE IN CHINA Edited by Wild - 30 April 2020 at 19:05 |
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Wild and Wet
Belgium 545e#268 |
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kipwrite
Commadore Joined: 14 October 2015 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 408 |
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The Hanse supplied Quick windlass has been perfect over the last four years. I’ve anchored many hundreds of times with it. I clean and grease it carefully, frequently, to make sure it’s happy.
That said, a circuit breaker instead of a hard to manage fuse makes sense. Will investigate next time I’m aboard. I do know on my 505 the windless is powered by its own battery forward. So I’m not sure why there would be a fuse at the power board. Curious if anyone else has had problems with their windlass fuses blowing?
Edited by kipwrite - 30 April 2020 at 19:30 |
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Kipwrite
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tobo2
Captain Joined: 14 February 2014 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 260 |
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Hi Wil Theses fuses were also critized by the German "Yacht" magazine when they tested the boat last October. Conc. the wires: Our new Lewmar windlass is fed by the two 12V batteries in front for the 24 V bow thruster. Of course it's not a good idea now to use the windlass and the bow thruster at the same time. We will have to find out if it possible. Wendel & Rados made all these installations and I pretty much trust their ideas. But God knows when we can get to the boat and do our first seatrials. The advantage: Shorter wires>more power. So we don't need the orginal windlass wires from the powerboard through the whole boat. This was a bad idea anyway. We had that on our 470 and we lost a lot of power for the windlass.
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ohthetrees
Captain Joined: 24 November 2019 Status: Offline Points: 169 |
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Kipwrite, are you sure your windlass is powered by those forward batteries? I have forward batteries that are part of the bow-thruster installation, and you would think that running the windlass from them would be a great idea. However, no. There are long cables that come all the way to the nav station. If my windlass ever needs replacing, I will be installing a 24v unit that runs from the bow batteries.
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