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Anchor Windlass Control Wires |
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H8jer
Admiral Joined: 14 September 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1347 |
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Posted: 17 June 2020 at 07:48 |
I am in the process of equipping our Hanse 370 with an anchor Windlass. It is a complete new installation.
I can see that it was an option to have 35mm2 cables to the anchor locker. These cables are not present in our boat. Instead I have daisy-chained 35mm2 wires from the Bowthruster, so cable thickness is not an issue. But I would like to use the Anchor-Windlass Switch on the E-panel to feed 12v to the windlass footswitches. Small diameter cables is often put into the wire-harness even-through they are not going to be installed. My hope is that the wires mentioned below are already present: From wesailhanse http://www.wesailhanse.se/Hanse370_documents/370_documents_hanse/hanse370_08_electric_installation_cabellist_20-07-2005_de_en.pdf FLRY 1,5² white/Yellow - control cable for anchor windlass - begin:E-Panel End:Ankerwinde - Option * FLRY 1,5² white/black - control cable for anchor windlass - begin:E-Panel End:Ankerwinde - Option * FLRY 1,5² green/Yellow - control cable for anchor windlass - begin:E-Panel End:Ankerwinde - Option * 1.5mm2 is in my opinion not enough as the Lofrans Relaybox is pulling 2.5amps when a footswich is activted. So I will have to join the three wires to one or pull a new 6mm2 wire. If possible it would be a huge help to know: What is the route for these cables? why are there three wires and not only a single Positive (perhaps a it is possible to have a controlswitch at the helm, but we will use a radio remote instead) /H8jer Edited by H8jer - 17 June 2020 at 07:49 |
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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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Mark_J1
Rear Admiral Joined: 12 March 2013 Location: Dover&Medway UK Status: Offline Points: 526 |
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3 control wires to support an anchor up/down switch in or near the anchor well, with the control relay ‘contractor’ box under Nav station on our 400. It’s not a simple straight feed to the factory fitted motor.
Routing I’m not so certain of. On a 400 it starts from under navigation station and routes up the port side. At back of the forward cabin port side wardrobe shelves, there may be a small inspection panel where you can get to the loom there and see whether it goes forward or across the top of the bulkhead via the mast wiring. Mark
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Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31
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H8jer
Admiral Joined: 14 September 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1347 |
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Found this on wesailhanse: So the Relaybox is near the nav-station? And the three wires are infact to the remote?
Edited by H8jer - 17 June 2020 at 09:55 |
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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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Peter Russell
Commadore Joined: 24 October 2007 Location: Wiltshire Status: Offline Points: 430 |
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There is definitely a control box on my 370 in the panel behind the rear seat on the port side. I had to rewire when I moved from a dedicated windless battery to a shared one - not difficult but does require some dexterity. Alas I can't get near the boat due to lockdown here, but if the post is still running next month when we hope we will be allowed to overnight then I'll get a photo of it.
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H8jer
Admiral Joined: 14 September 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1347 |
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Thx for the replies. During the next days I will backtrak/follow the wire(s) from the E-panel. It will be much faster to pull a new wire if there is no usefull wire found on the backside of the E-panel. /H8jer
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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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Captain Cook
Admiral Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1009 |
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In the bottom left corner of the photo are the auto-fuses for service/anchor/winch. Above these is the contactor, which just is a large relay, capable of managing 12V/100A. On the front of the contactor are the cables from the anchor control. white/yellow=up is to the left, white/black=down is to the right, and the green/grey= common is sent from the control panel (?) to the switch. The direction of the current is: common goes TO the switch, up/down goes FROM the switch. In plain language, the current is sent to the contact in the common wire, and then (depending which one you connect), the current is returned in the up or down cable. The idea with a relay is, that you can use a long and thin cable to trigger the relay, which then send a larger current in a thicker cable to the anchor. The cable diagram can be downloaded from wesailhanse. P.S.: H8jer - gn/gr is grün/grau = green/grey, not green/yellow. - The approved way to mount an anchorwinch is: 12V/70-100A from battery to a main switch, then to an atomatic fuse 70-100A, and from there to the contactor, which (after a signal from the thin up or down cable) sends 70-100A to the anchorwinch. PPS.: The control wires are stated to start at control panel, and end at the windlass. That is not so. In my Calira panel (330) there is no fuse for the anchor winch control. It is placed beside the contactor. Two of the three control wires starts at the contactor (the common cable is fed 12V+ near this), and the cables ends in the anchor well, where the up/down contact is located. I have mounted an extra (three-wire) contact at the steering pedestal. :Kjeld Edited by Captain Cook - 18 June 2020 at 21:48 |
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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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jeb
Captain Joined: 05 May 2014 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 226 |
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Hi,
I installed Quick Prince DP3 1000W windlass on my H400 a few years ago. I have the version with an offset forward bed, but routing should be similar on the v berth model. I installed the windlass exactly the same way but on a GRP shelf. The contactor was mounted on the inside of the bulkhead behind the anchor box. I used cableglands both where the cables leaves the anchor box as well as where they go true the bulkhead. My windlass has 3 power cables (common ground, one for up and one for down). So to limit cables I had the contactor as close to the windlass as possible. I used 50mm2 cables and routed them from the automatic fuse (located behind the battery compartment) behind the chartable. Then behind the wardrobe and finally under the bed. I fitted 3 control cables. One + from the switch panel and 2 more + signal cable for my chain counter (installed in the cockpit). For the routing behind the wardrobe I used my standard method to route cables in hidden areas. This includes a set of strong magnets as well as a endoscope with a magnet. I simply attach the pilot line to one of the magnets and feed it in the hidden area by moving the other magnet on the outside. Doing this thru 12mm plywood works fine. When there is an obstacle on the outside (like the separator between the wardrobe and the cabinet) I used a 3rd magnet to “shift grip”. I then picked the magnet up with the endoscope. I used to run my windlass from the starter battery but after changing ti LiFePo4 this spring I moved it (as well as aft anchor and electrical winch) to the house bank. All 3 runs from the same automatic 100A fuse. Jesper, Hanse400e
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Jesper
Hanse 400e |
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jeb
Captain Joined: 05 May 2014 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 226 |
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Jesper
Hanse 400e |
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jeb
Captain Joined: 05 May 2014 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 226 |
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Jesper
Hanse 400e |
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H8jer
Admiral Joined: 14 September 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1347 |
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Hi Jesper. Nice installation you made there. Did you make the shelf yourselves? - It turned out that our Hanse 370 did not have any cables installed for anchor windlass. I took the e-panel cabinet apart and only had a xs1 wire from the epanel that together with xs2 (bow truster) and xs3 was rolled up all not attached to anything. The amount of wasted storage in that locker is ridicule... I will make a shelf instead. It took me some time to figure out why I could not get a green light and power from the xs1 wire. Apparently there is a small 70amp relay attached to the backside of the calira panel. The relay is controlled by 2 very thin wires from the print-board. The relay is supposed to feed both the bow thruster and anchor winch switches. But this has never been activated. As it has no use, I might remove it. When they after-installed the bow thruster they bypassed this relay. I did the same to get the switch working. From the xs1 I used aprox. 8meters 2.5mm2 wire from the epanel to the locker where the thruster is located. From the thruster to the anchor windlass there is 3 meters. So I used 6 meters 35mm2 of red and 3 meters of black 35mm2. 5 holes were drilled to the side. 3x 35mm2, 3x1.5mm2 (footswitches) and 2x0.75mm2 (chaincounter) We tried the anchor yesterday and it worked perfect. /h8jer Edited by H8jer - 24 June 2020 at 06:58 |
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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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