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Reef line Lengths?

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Martin&Rene View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 February 2021 at 18:25
Look at this old thread.


In it you will see 2 alternative diagrams for how a reefing system is set up with blocks in the boom.  The aim of using either of those 2 systems is to reduce friction in the system, particularly as in the early days it was not normal to have any blocks on the sails, just cringles.

Ken's boat, like my 341 is set up so there is only one line running all the way through for both the luff and leech cringles.

If you do have blocks in the boom, the downside is it is not easy to replace lines.  If you are lucky, you can join the old  and new lines together and pull them through.  Otherwise, I believe you have to take one of the boom fittings off, probably the aft end.
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
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mattplowman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mattplowman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2021 at 19:32
An update, on closer inspection I have a Z Diffusion boom and the reef line replacement should be straightforward, no need to have boom off. Thanks all for the input 
H355 , #47
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Martin&Rene View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 February 2021 at 14:51
If you have just the simple single line reefing system, then it really is beneficial to have pulleys at all the turning points.  If you do not have them, then this link shows how I retrofitted  them on my first main. 


It is also good to follow Samuel's advice of putting marks on the mast to indicate reefed sail positions, as it is much easier to pull the clew into the right place when you are reefing against a locked off halyard.   
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
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