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Diesel Air Heater |
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Goat
Lieutenant Joined: 26 May 2018 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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Posted: 11 September 2022 at 18:06 |
Hi Borge,
I don't think I can be of any help here and there is obviously a different between the 370 and 385. All the ducting was accessible without removing any furniture (other than cushions) apart from short sections (such as behind the fridge). I hope you manage to find a solution. Adrian
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Ubi bene
Lieutenant Joined: 28 September 2006 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 37 |
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Hi Adrian,
Thanks for your quick reply! I am not familiar with the differences in design of the salon between the 385 and the 370. On the 370 it seems difficult to open the top of the stb sofa to access the duct. The top front seems to be attached by screws only, but the fore end of the top back seems to have some kind of fibre glass reinforcement attached by sicaflex as well as screws. I don't feel comfortable with what may happen if this actally is a reinforcement and I remove it when the rig is under tension. Any thoughts on this might help ease my mind. BR Børge
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Förstefender
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Goat
Lieutenant Joined: 26 May 2018 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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Hi Borge,
With our 385 the duct run was very straightforward with factory cut routing from the aft lazarrette, splitting port and stbd just inside the bulkhead, under the stbd aft bunk behind the galley (accessible through the cupboard under the oven), behind the fridge and under the stbd sofa in the saloon. We have brought the duct out just forward of the sink rather than run the length of the saloon. Pushing the ducting through was surprisingly easy. There was a picture of this routing in the owners safety manual (even though we didn't have it factory fitted). I don't have any pictures and won't be on the yacht for a while but from what you describe I suspect your ducting may be more inaccessible. |
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Ubi bene
Lieutenant Joined: 28 September 2006 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 37 |
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How did you access the space for the heating duct in the salon?
I am the owner of a 370e built in 2006 and last spring there was a leak from the engine diesel filter soaking the heat duct where it passes by the tank. When running the heater, this causes a lot of smoke when the duct gets hot, so I need to replace the duct. Do you have any pictures showing the work made? Best regards Børge Christian Mosgren
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Förstefender
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Goat
Lieutenant Joined: 26 May 2018 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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Thanks for all the useful info. We have just about achieved the installation of an Airo 5m from mvheating.co.uk . Running the ducting went better than expected due to factory fitted cut outs, just needed a slight enlargement on the port side to run through from the lazerette. We have outlets in each aft cabin, head and in the salon (aft end near sink, open). Wiring needed to be run back to the battery as at start up the heater draws up to 25 amps, it took a bit of time to realise that! The angled through hull for the exhaust from MV marine was elliptical and would have been very difficult to fit so was changed for a straight Webasto one exiting to port side of the transom. Only issue remaining is the fuel. The brass cap was fused to the alloy pick up which had to be cut off. A new valve miraculously still fitted the remaining thread but with a big air leak meaning the heater kept shutting down. We are waiting on trying a new valve on this but the heater runs very well off a short term solution of using a tonic bottle as a fuel tank! Overall the heater is excellent and very quickly warms the boat through, a very good addition. Total cost of the install has been around £1800.
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Keakaka
Lieutenant Joined: 02 August 2020 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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Hi all, we have a 388 with the Eberspacher D4 heater. It works well but installation was a big project.
Major problems getting the electrics connected to the correct wiring -took 6 hours - make sure your service people have done it before. Also make sure the diesel supply line is primed full before you connect to the heater unit otherwise the heater cuts out because the pump cant suck up the fuel We ran the ducts along the starbd side with vents into the rear cabin, saloon and forward berth. We get 4 degree temp lift in 15 minutes. We had trouble with suction pressure on the intake of the heater and had to disconnect a duct hose that was intended to draw air from inside the boat- the heater was cutting out thinking there was a blockage. I just take air directly from the lazarette. I put a small baffle plate in front of the heater intake to stop fenders or gear blocking or damaging the intake fan. I havent insulated the ducts yet but it seems to be OK.
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This is not a rehearsal. Go for it. Kiakaha
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Fendant
Admiral Joined: 03 November 2012 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 1617 |
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I have fitted a small electric fan infront of the outlet in the forecabin. It helps , but ubulukutu is right, you have to close the aft cabin and head outlets to get heat to the front.
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Frank
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Carlosailfan
Captain Joined: 06 March 2014 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 193 |
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We also have the factory installed D4 and in winter time when it is freezing, 4 KW is in my opinion not enough if you ask a quick response for heating. After a few hours it is comfortable. good luck ! |
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Best regards
/C |
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Mark&Catherine
Admiral Joined: 18 January 2013 Location: Turkey Status: Offline Points: 1200 |
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we have the factory fitted 4 KW D4, there is one open outlet in the saloon and adjustable (and closable) in the aft cabin, heads and forward cabin. We close or limit the outlet in the heads and rear cabin to get more heat into the forepeak, unless you want a really hot heads for a shower. I think anything smaller than 4KW would be too small.
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385 ubulukutu sail number GBR 3350L in Turkey and Greece with Mark and Catherine
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Goat
Lieutenant Joined: 26 May 2018 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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Martin,
Thanks and a good tip re insulation under bed bases (I've just ordered some dry mat so we'll see if that helps insulate and reduce condensation). We also have a dehumidifier and have been surprised how well the yacht survived her first winter in the UK! Our plan is to bring an outlet in the saloon just forward of the sink which will reduce the length of trunking and hopefully retain more heat. Andy at Inspiration Marine came back to me with the following re fuel tap which will be useful if anyone else searches this; Below is the factory fitted fuel shut off tap, this is ¼” with a regular right handed thread.
https://hanse.boatoon.com/en/shop/article/24200/ball-valve-14
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