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Self-tacker attachment point |
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32mike
Captain Joined: 26 March 2020 Location: FLorida, US Status: Offline Points: 210 |
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Posted: 28 July 2022 at 18:23 |
Any opinions/ experience out there on there on which hole to use for the jib sheet.? I started in the middle. Then moved it where it is to maybe reduce twist but it seems to have made it harder to furl. Thinking that “medium” was the better choice.
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Mike
S/V Dulces Sueños 458 #087 Tampa, FL |
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S&J
Admiral Joined: 30 August 2014 Location: Perth WA / Med Status: Offline Points: 1180 |
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I use second from top which seems to give good sail shape.
If the wind is more than 10kts or so I generally turn downwind to furl.
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H458 #159 Primal Mediterranean cruising
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415 Singapore
Vice Admiral Joined: 23 September 2013 Location: Singapore Status: Offline Points: 826 |
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Hi Mike
I don't think the attachment point should make any difference to the ease of furling. The correct hole is really down to the cut of each individual sail, wind strength etc. We replaced the 12mm jib sheet with a 10mm dyneema one and the smaller diameter certainly helps with the furling. We have also replaced all the stanchion pulleys for the furling line with ball bearing pulleys. Finally we don't use the 2:1 purchase either as we have found that it is unnecessary and definitely adds to the total friction in the system. The thing that we have found that has the most impact on the ease of furling is the halyard tension, the more tension the harder it is to furl it. The other thing to do is regularly clean and re-grease the top and bottom swivels / bearings. All the best Paul
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Paul - Night Train - 415 #136
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samuel
Admiral of the Fleet Joined: 26 December 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2683 |
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The only issue that one might encounter by omitting the 2:1 system to the sail is that it will increase the load where the sheet enters on to the pulley in the mast. I managed to collapse the mainsail pulley at the top of the mast on my 311 when I changed to laminate sails & halyards. Although a much smaller boat, it is still relative & I doubt that Hanse builds lots of "reserve" into the design. It also adds greater load to the block at the mast base & deck organsers, but that would be less of a problem & it is easier to replace.
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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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samuel
Admiral of the Fleet Joined: 26 December 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2683 |
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Depends entirely on the cut of the sail. What suits one sail will not necessarily suit another. Halyard tension becomes more important to furling issues as the gear begins to wear. Slacken it a bit prior to furling as suggested above.
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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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32mike
Captain Joined: 26 March 2020 Location: FLorida, US Status: Offline Points: 210 |
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I think I figured out that the furling difficulty is grease (or lack of) related. So, Seldén sells a tube of Furlex grease. Two questions:
What alternative product would work? Barring purchasing a grease gun, does anybody recommend a tool/method for “injecting” the grease into the bearings?
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Mike
S/V Dulces Sueños 458 #087 Tampa, FL |
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Issywa
Lieutenant Joined: 13 April 2022 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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I also have sail and furling difficulties on my 430e.
I’ve been playing with which clew point to use and am starting to think that the answer is to get a new 110 or so sail and discontinue using the self tracker. Regarding the furling, I’ve changed blocks in an attempt to reduce friction but have not noticed any significant difference other than my wallet is lighter. I also don’t use the 2:1 sheeting between the sail and self tracker. I need to use a winch to furl which leads me to believe that the furling unit might need to be cleaned and lubricated. That’s my next venture.
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Etre Jeune
Lieutenant Joined: 21 August 2022 Location: Sydney Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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same issue for me, I was advised to hose out the bottom bearing, with fresh water, then spray in salt away or similar. That is the easy was to flush out the salt residue. Then spray in some lube. And rinse again regularly if you ocean sail. And halyard tension too, but it show up more with a dry salty bearing.
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R Stock
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PekkaL
Commander Joined: 01 January 2005 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 92 |
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Regarding my (H371) Furlex furler: the bearings appear to work for horizontal loads but not vertical loads.
I have chosen to use a 10mm dyneema jib/genua halyard and tighten it only after unfurling the the jib/genua, and loosen it already before furling. Since that I've had no issues: the furling / unfurling effort is minimal compared to earlier. With the dyneema halyard the difference between loosened and tightened sail is just a few centimetres: the loosened halyard does not get tangled when (un)furling. With the original 12mm non-dymeema stretching halyard estimating the tightening and untightening was difficult: having too much loose on the halyard it wraps over itself, having not enough the halyard puts high vertical load to the furler resulting bearings not working as intended. The thick rope also had more friction, making estimating the halyard tightness difficult.
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Pekka Leppanen, "Vedette"
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Mark_J1
Rear Admiral Joined: 12 March 2013 Location: Dover&Medway UK Status: Offline Points: 526 |
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Using 10mm Dyneema versus the original 12mm braid-on-braid polyester does help. I find the 2:1 setup works best on our 400e. On the STJ I regularly use additional standard jib sheets to act as either preventers downwind or tweakers upwind. That takes the pain out of picking the right hole for a given situation.
With age, the original Facnor furler did get harder to furl & eventually needed a winch if there was significant pressure in the sail. Swapped to a Profurl furler a couple of seasons ago and the STJ can be furled by hand easily. Even the 54SqM of Genoa can be furled by hand in reasonable wind strengths. Mark
Edited by Mark_J1 - 27 September 2022 at 16:15 |
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Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31
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