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SD20 Saildrive |
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Mike2145
Captain Joined: 18 October 2014 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 268 |
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Posted: 19 June 2016 at 13:53 |
Recently discovered that the seacock on the Saildrive was not shutting off. No amount of persuasion was going to clear it. This seems to be a common problem.
Decided to replace with a stainless steel ball valve as described in other posts. This was done in the water. Despite worries this went without a hitch although be prepared for plenty of bailing afterward. I got about a bucket of water out. It's contained in the engine bilge pretty well. I did test the bilge pump first. Glad I did as the float switch had stuck! I'll post pictures and parts list later. I would check your seacock to see if it is actually shutting off when you think it's closed. |
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Mike2145
Captain Joined: 18 October 2014 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 268 |
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The new fittings in place.
Simpler to use as the multi turn gate valve was not in the best place for access. The flow is better now as the old gate valve was not opening fully as well as not closing fully! When the boat is out of the water I will remove and check the installation and refit.
Edited by Mike2145 - 20 June 2016 at 09:19 |
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Mike2145
Captain Joined: 18 October 2014 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 268 |
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Parts list (part no's are from ASAP in the UK). All are 1/2 inch BSP Equal Nipple Male/Male 423603 Ball Valve Female/female 405753 90 degree hose tail. Male/20mm Hose 422338 |
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CharlesP
Admiral Joined: 23 September 2010 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1208 |
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That looks a good and worthwhile job Mike. Was the old seacocks easy to get off?
Charles |
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'MERIDIAN LADY'
320 Nr 536 2010 Medway |
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Mark_J1
Rear Admiral Joined: 12 March 2013 Location: Dover&Medway UK Status: Offline Points: 526 |
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Looks good. I wanted to do similar but went a different route in the end.
When we took over Grey Goose her SD50 sail drive seacock had a similar problem. It is really tough to get tools into that area on the 400 without resorting to a saw. So I went with an engineer friends suggestion and we sourced a tap to 'recut' the thread in the gate valve. I can provide the size if anyone needs it (or if you're currently on the R. Medway UK buy me beer and borrow it!). Just needed to unscrew the valve from the body, run the tap down the thread to clear the calcium deposits, smear with grease and clean the valve thread before reinserting. Had the luxury of doing it when on the hard which took the stress out of the exercise. I suspect our valve hadn't been regularly opened or closed in the hands of its former owner, or possibly its lay-up on the hard waiting to be sold let the calcium harden. I open and close it each trip and it's been fine for 4 years since. On the 400 it can be reached and turned from above the engine once you have it turning smoothly. Mark |
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Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31
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Mike2145
Captain Joined: 18 October 2014 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 268 |
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Hi Charles Yes it was very easy. I did spray some plusgas around the joint a few days before but I dont think it was required. There is an interesting thread on the 370/375 forum showing a trudesign valve. May be a future option when the boat is out of the water. I'll see what the stainless fitting is like at the end of the season. No reports on other forums of problems. Mike
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JUTTER
Commander Joined: 05 November 2015 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Hi Mike,
Nice job! After winter, I intend todo the same. One thing still puzzles me: the choice of the material of the valve and the fittings, since they are in full contact with the aluminium of the engine and with salt water. The original valve looks like it is made of some kind of messing. I am very curious about he reason that made you choose the stainless steel instead? Claude
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JUTTER, Hanse 350#0256, 2010, deep keel, Zeeland
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Mike2145
Captain Joined: 18 October 2014 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 268 |
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Hi Claude Thanks, it wasnt dfficult and done in the water so its not that hard. The parts were used simply because the parts were easily available and other posters, with more knowledge than I, see no real issues. One of the possible upgrades when the boat is out of the water will be to look at a 'plastic' option to prevent the possibility of electrolytic action. However, so far I dont believe there are any reports of issues with the materials used. The old valve was some form of Bronze or DZR Brass I believe so would have similar electric problems so my guess is that the installation is OK. I'll keep a watch on the forums to see if any problems are reported. If anyone can see an issue please let me know. Mike
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JUTTER
Commander Joined: 05 November 2015 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Correction of my previous post:
Please, instead of messing read brass... Claude
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JUTTER, Hanse 350#0256, 2010, deep keel, Zeeland
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Drumduff
Commander Joined: 11 April 2008 Location: Kip Marina Scot Status: Offline Points: 149 |
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Hi,
SS, aluminium & seawater aren't the best combination. the aluminium & ss will corrode over time and the threads will seize or become damaged. Thread tape offers some protection but over time will degrade. I have just being doing the same job and have replaced all the seacocks with bronze. I would be wary of plastic type valves around any part the engine due to the heat that may build up around the engine should the water supply fail or the fan stops. Plastic and any kind of heat aren't a good combination either.
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