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General query

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Clouded Pearl View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clouded Pearl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: General query
    Posted: 07 September 2020 at 22:30
Hi. I have a Hanse 385 and after retracting our anchor, the fuse blew and I cannot see why this might have happened. I know this used to happen frequently on a Bavaria upon which I did my Day Skipper sail training with a local sailing school (their boat) and we were often having to reset the trip, although our boat only has a fuse at the moment so that will need replacing and I'm planning to install a suitable circuit breaker.

Anyway, whilst on the subject, I decided it would be good to be able to service the windlass given that our boat is now 9 years old and to my surprise, no obvious access is available. Any thoughts?


Edited by Clouded Pearl - 01 June 2021 at 22:03
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Nilandhoo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nilandhoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2020 at 10:52
Hi Geoff, we have a 325 and there is access to the space between the anchor locker and the hull on our boat if you take the cover off at the bottom of the bed in the forward cabin.  Sorry it not a better picture but you can see the opening at the top of the pic you may get access to the windlass from here.

Regards

Paul


Hanse 325 'One Life'
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Clouded Pearl View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clouded Pearl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2020 at 13:45
Thanks Paul. Unfortunately, there is no such cover on my 385 and also, in our case, the windlass is above the bed, not in front of the foot of the bed.

Thanks anyway.

Geoff


Edited by Clouded Pearl - 08 September 2020 at 18:35
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Brufan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brufan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2020 at 14:37
The Lewmar ProSeries is secured by threaded rods inserted from underneath in the windlass housing.  There is no access from above.
I don't know how Hanse rigs these windlasses.  
I retrofit one on my H355 in the very same location as the factory install.  I had great difficulties fitting it with nuts and washers from the inside.  Two nuts are easy to access but the third (backwards) is very awkward (with normal human hands).
Bruno

hanse 355 - 57

S/Y Spicy Ginger

White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system (modifications done now), Simrad-Jefa autopilot.
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Clouded Pearl View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clouded Pearl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2020 at 18:33
Agreed. From what I can see, Hanse prefit the windlass before the deck is secured to the hull. That would be fine provided they included access for servicing of the windlass but they don't. Consequently, it looks like my multi tool cutter is the only option.

Edited by Clouded Pearl - 01 June 2021 at 21:46
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S&J View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote S&J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2020 at 18:57
On my 385 the anchor locker protrudes into the main cabin at the bow and has a small inspection hatch on the lower surface.  I used this to fit a wireless remote on the windlass.  I'm not sure if it also provides access to the bolts for the windlass itself.




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Clouded Pearl View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clouded Pearl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2020 at 19:57
That's very helpful. May I ask, did you buy your 385 new? I only ask because ours does not have this hatch, although the layout is otherwise exactly the same. If you got yours from a previous owner, I'm wondering if the previous owner maybe added this hatch afterwards?

Is the inspection hatch at the rearmost section of the anchor locker intrusion or closest to the bow. It looks like rearmost?

Looking at the location, I think it might be too small to be able to access all the bolts, of which I believe there are 5. I think I will need to be able to have direct access to the underside of the windlass otherwise it will be hugely fiddly, though the concept you have there is obviously a great way to access the wiring.


Edited by Clouded Pearl - 08 September 2020 at 20:03
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote S&J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2020 at 20:27
Yes, I bought mine new.  #351 built December 2014 and commissioned May 2015.
I have now sold this boat so I'm afraid I cannot check further, but at least it gives you an idea of what might be possible.
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Clouded Pearl View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clouded Pearl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2020 at 21:29
No problem at all. Thanks for your help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 September 2020 at 02:18
I had exactly the same problem.  I have a 415, but believe the set up is essentially the same.  My boat has the inspection hatch factory installed (see picture S&J), but that is only so helpful as the hatch only gives you to access to 2 of 3 nuts on the thread rods that hold the windlass in place (the windlass is designed for four, but Hanse only seems to be using three rods to hold it in place).  The third nut is behind the bulkhead that forms the forward edge of the bed/cabin which is between the forward and aft bolts and somehow goes all the way up to the bottom of the anchor locker blocking access to the most forward bolt.

Like you I considered cutting an access panel in the anchor locker to access the third nut.  The disadvantage is obviously that you are breaching the watertight barrier and are creating a potential area for leaks.  Water could get from the anchor locker into the cabin if the hatch or flange is not sealed/bedded properly.  In the end I realized there was a different way to solve the problem and went that way.

The approach I used was to, with a small saw, reach in between the inside shell covering the anchor well in the forward cabin and cut down the bulk head to follow the shape of the inside shell (or 1/2" inside of the shell perimeter if you saw under an angle).  There is about a 1" gap in my case between he inside shell and the forward bulk head.   I believe this is standard on my vintage boats since I have seen it on other 415 and 385s as well.  Once the bulkhead is following the inside shell's edge, you can reach through the inside inspection hedge (see S&Js picture) and get to the bolt.  Not easy but if you use a ratcheting wrench pretty doable.   Cutting the bulk head down to be slightly inside the inside shell's perimeter makes it is not visible from the cabin/bed and there is no need to cut a hedge in the anchor locker (avoiding possible leaks).

One more tip, to get the windlass truly off the boat you will need to cut the cables.  You might want to invest in a heavy duty crimping tool and connectors to put everything back together when you are done

Why Hanse doesn't cut down the bulkhead to match their inside shell is a mystery, especially since they clearly realized -at some point- that not having some inside access to the bottom of the windlass was a bad idea.  My guess is that the official drawings show the bulkhead matching the inside shell but that the building crew found it easier to only rough cut the bulk head to clear the anchor well as the ample overlap of the inside shell would hid any sloppiness in the cut...

As said, had exactly the same issue so let me know if you have further questions.  Success!

Harold
S/V Ventus
415/#314
Boston


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