myHanse.com - Hanse Yacht Owners Website myHanse.com - Hanse Yacht Owners Website myHanse.com - Hanse Yacht Owners Website myHanse.com - Hanse Yacht Owners Website

Welcome to myHanse.com the forum for Hanse Yachts owners throughout the world.

Forum Home Forum Home > Hints & Tips > 385/388
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Hull zinc
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Hull zinc

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
AndyS View Drop Down
Captain
Captain


Joined: 14 June 2016
Location: River Dunes, NC
Status: Offline
Points: 195
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote AndyS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Hull zinc
    Posted: 04 July 2017 at 13:52
We just had our 385 hauled our for bottom painting. While changing out the zincs we realized that the zinc block that is mounted to the port side of the hull - near the sail drive - is held on with two bolts that go directly through the hull. The guys at the boat yard said the holes had been drilled out at an angle and they were surprised we hadn't had any leakage. They reinforced the holes and beefed up the hardware so that the bolts would not spin or come out when the zinc was next removed. You can see the bolts by lifting up the bilge access in the port berth and looking toward the engine. Maybe I am the last to realize this, but I think it could be a serious problem if a diver dried to remove that zinc while in the water. You would have significant water come into the boat. Perhaps this zinc should only be replaced while out of the water, and maybe that is common knowledge. But I thought I would pass on our experience. 
Andy
Moonraker
River Dunes, NC
Back to Top
S&J View Drop Down
Admiral
Admiral
Avatar

Joined: 30 August 2014
Location: Perth WA / Med
Status: Offline
Points: 1180
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote S&J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 July 2017 at 14:35
Coincidentally I was looking at our anode a few weeks ago with a view to replacing it at the end of this season.  By then it will have been on for three years, approximately 10 months of which will have been in the water.

This is a fairly large anode so, unlike smaller prop anodes I have replaced whilst afloat (with a big lungful of air!), I think that replacement is most likely to be done while the boat is ashore.  On my previous boat I found that the external bolts became so corroded that the only way to remove the anode was to undo the internal bolts and then push these through the hull, meaning that the bolts get replaced along with the anode.

I did also look at our through-hull bolts and felt that they were soundly fitted with large backing washers, although I cannot say that I was looking for them being on an angle.  I was also satisfied that the external bolts were not too badly corroded, although I do think that replacement is a two man job with someone holding a spanner on the internal bolts to stop them turning.

I'd be interested to see any alterations that make replacement simpler.
H458 #159 Primal Mediterranean cruising
Back to Top
StavrosNZ View Drop Down
Rear Admiral
Rear Admiral


Joined: 24 October 2014
Location: New Zealand
Status: Offline
Points: 556
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StavrosNZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 July 2017 at 22:00
Yes i found on my 2010 400 that the studs were simply Sika applied in the holes through the hull, like you i removed them, cleaned up and epoxied the studs back in.

Another stupid example of cost cutting where its critical (holes in the hull)
Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06
Copyright ©2001-2023 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.078 seconds.

Links : www.hanseyachts.co.uk www.hanseyachts.com www.fjordboats.co.uk www.dehler.co.uk www.varianta.co.uk