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Leak, I think from the toe rail bolts

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Bitbaltic View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bitbaltic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2019 at 21:58
I’ve had the exact same leak on my 301 since I bought her 8 years ago.

Always assumed it was port rear pulpit bolt but every time I have put my hand up there to feel it it has been dry as a bone.

Also concluded the centre panel needs to come out to get at it thus meaning a reseal job on the hatch so more work than worth it.

It’s a minor issue which had damaged the woodwork before I bought the boat and it’s not got appreciably worse so has forever been on the long list. Interesting that there might be a simple solution from on deck.

Part of my stalling is because tapping the ply lining indicates the wood is lying against the hull at that exact point and I can’t rule out condensation damage which would be a bigger fix (headliners out and a new ply lining battened off the hull).


Edited by Bitbaltic - 10 July 2019 at 22:01
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Mschesser View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mschesser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 March 2021 at 04:31
On my 370, it appears there was sealant/adhesive clearly applied between the hull and deck interface when the deck was applied and the toe rail was then screwed down through the deck into the hull flange with the self tapping screws to distribute the clamping force. 

Does anyone know if there was actually a sealant originally used between the bottom of the toe rail and outer deck surface?  It does not appear to me that there was any sealant used there during assembly.  There is no indication of sealant squeezing out from under the toe rail at any point on my boat.

If that is true, it would seem the source of any leaks now most likely are thru the toe rail screw holes themselves...in other words, leaking down the threads themselves.  After much troubleshooting, that is the conclusion I am coming to on my boat.  The water appears drip off the screws to run down the interior of the hull onto a horizontal reinforcement rib behind the liner panel until it finds a low spot to then run down further where the hull is bonded to the vee berth horizontal platform.  At this point it wets the liner panel as it pools up.

I am considering backing out each toe rail screw one at a time partially, applying sealant to the exposed threads, and then immediately driving the screw back down.  By removing them one at a time, I hope to not disturb the bonded deck/hull joint that might occur if several adjacent screws are removed to lift the toe rail to inject sealant under the toe rail.

Any thoughts?
M Chesser, 370, “Red Sky”
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perry View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote perry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 March 2021 at 10:29
Yes I had similar problem, and the toe rail is on self tapping screws with a couple of bolts on fairleadsand stantion base.  I had a leaky section and managed, with struggle, and modified tool to fit bolts washers and nuts and clamp up the toe rail tight in the area of leak. Took time and inginuity to start nuts, and in one difficult area used a drilled and tapped 5mm thick by 22mm wide strip of Stainless to act as two nut where I couldnt get in to hold nuts.

Good luck.
Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007
Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017
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NeilGraham View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NeilGraham Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 January 2023 at 22:13
I have the same problem.
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berrychristian View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berrychristian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 January 2023 at 02:08
Hello there! I experienced a similar problem but managed to fix it quickly. I used silicone to seal the spots where the leakage occurred, and at first, the leakage stopped. But after a few days, I noticed that the ceiling was still leaking, but not as much. I realized that a few bolts weren’t screwed all the way in. The water even rusted the bolts, so I needed to replace them. I purchased new bolts and screwed them tightly, which finally stopped the leakage completely. Someone suggested buying steel joist hangers because they resist in corrosive environments, but I’m not sure how to use them or whether I need them for my ceiling panel.

Edited by berrychristian - 30 January 2023 at 15:17
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Mschesser View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mschesser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 January 2023 at 04:48
I posted in March, 2021, that I thought my deck leak was thru the toerail screws.  As planned at that time, I carefully removed and resealed each toerail screw, but unfortunately the leak continued.  I then discovered the true source of the leak as water running down the bow cleat bolts which have nuts under the deck.

I have still not found a way to access those bow cleat nuts which were obviously installed on the deck before the deck was mated to the hull. (Photos from fabrication confirm the cleats are installed in this sequence).  On my boat, hex head bolts are recessed into the top of the cleat, with nuts under the deck, so removal requires access below the deck.

For now, I have stopped the leak by applying sealant around the exterior base of the cleat, and a little around the top of the bolt head recessed into the cleat.  Not a great solution.  Ultimately I believe I will have to locate and cut access holes in the forward cabin ceiling liner to access and remove the nuts to allow me to properly remove and re-bed the bow cleats.

Very frustrating
Mike
M Chesser, 370, “Red Sky”
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perry View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote perry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 January 2023 at 08:42
Commiserations  Mike,
my last post on this subject was a leak  on my H301[ 2000]; Currently I have just found first leak on my 315 [2007] and again toe rail self tapping screws problems. So hard to  get at and access!.
I have managed to sort; but I went round the toerail and found nearly all the self tapping screws would take a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to tighten.  Looking to future I guess I need to put in order for 50 plus countersunk M5 or M6 screws nuts and washers, access will be the problem, but any deck leak causes the headlining damage and deteriation, it has to be fixed.

Back in 1975 my first yacht a racing 1/4 tonner a David Thomas Quarto design, nearly finished my yachting. The design was for a light weight build, early use of balsa deck core and David though he could get away with telf tapping screw deck to hull joint and he used T section Aluminium bolted thru the deck to takechain plate load. On my first sail from Thames to home port of Langstone, upwind in a rough English Channel the Nav lights failed and we had leaks that need bilge pumping every 30 mins. I survived the night and in daylight found the deck was pulling off the hull. I subsequently bolted down deck and put in a bulkhead to transfer the chain plate loads to rhe hull. David was not responsible for the srew joint problem it was a shortcut by the builder who subsequenly went bust.

 David Thomas  became a friend and neighbour, advising and helping me successfully modify my yachts to win races. David was a world class prolific designer many great yachts came from his drawing board. I note that those early self tapping screws were really meant for sheet metal, the screwsbused by Hanse are specifically designed for GRP. Call me ''old fashioned'' but I think bolts and nuts are my preferred fixing for deck to hull joints.
Perry


Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007
Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017
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